• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Who's done Cam Endfloat Modification?

srsupertrap said:
Can anyone suggest a shop/person that is versed & accomplished on the Cam End Float Modfication detailed by GSer 49er below. This modification is performed on the cam bearing cap and adds half moon spacers to prevent the cam thrust ring from contacting the surface on the head.

Have a look at the link below it will make more sense.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/cam_end_float_mod.pdf
Click to expand...

Steve, it's not rocket science. Any automotive or general engineering machinist worth their salt, can do this work. Just print off the relevant instructions and present them to the machinist with the head, cams and caps.
 
Here is a couple of photos of my modified cam bearing caps using brass half moon washers instead of aluminum.

I deviated from 49er's procedure and didn't remove the cylinder head to take the measurents either. Just slightly depressed the cams with a pair of vice grips and used a drift pin to tap the cam thrust ring up against the cylinder head. Then I completly depressed the cams using a pair of vice grips and ensured there was no gap between the cam thrust ring & cylinder head. Next I took the measurements on the opposite cam bearing cap which represented the full deflection. I found quite a bit of radial slop, Intake measured .073" (this one was knocking) & Exhaust measured .056". So for the intake half moon washers .073/2 + .118" (3mm) = .146. Allowing for .001 clearance yields .145" (2 ea)


CamEndMod.jpg


CamEndMod1.jpg
 
Nice job Steve.

The brass won't expand at the same rate as the ali caps, but that could be an advantage for end clearances. They may become loose in the groove/recess through the lesser expansion!

Good luck. If it works, they'll probably last longer than the ali ones. Mine have done 8000kms since the mod with still no knocks.
 
Well I went to install those precise brass half moon inserts I found my measurements had not accounted for the distance that the opposite cam bearing cap is recessed from the cylinder head surface. So essentially this brass set was too small and essentially scrap but luckily the machinist whipped out another set of half moon washers made of 7075 Aluminum for free. Lucky me.

I had to lap three of the four half moon washers to achieve the running clearance of .0015" that 49er recommeded. I replaced four cam bearing cap dowel pins and reinstalled my Andrews Cams, luckily everything tightened up to spec and didn't experience the dreaded spinning bolt syndrome. Turned the motor over and over and over again and measured the cam end play and the modification has eliminated the radial slop. I had to readjust the valve lash on 7 of the 8 valves, the seven valves were all tighter and I had to install the next size smaller shim in each valve to get them back to Andrews .004 - .006" spec. Luckily I have a good stock of shims.

Next, I tackled the cam timing. I established my TDC with the positive stop method and than immediately ran into problems with the dial indicator touching the cam thus ruining my timing results. I extended the reach of the fat dial indicator tip with a modified M3 X 50 screw which I posted in Tips n tricks. People who peform this task on a routine basis probably have a better solution but this works for tha majority of us and most importantly was precise and repeatable.

I reviewed my Andrews documentation and found they marked their cams with a scribed index marks indicating 108/110 C/L when set 1.50 mm below the cylinder head surface. I initially set the cams to this position using my dial indicator. (sorry no pics) and then checked the static set up with the dial indicator. Setting the cams 1.50 mm below the surface yielded a C/L result of 111 degrees. Pretty close for eyeballing it. The problem with the method is the cam index mark is fat as the mark on the Degree Wheel which begs the question should it be set to the middle, bottom or top. Regardless, I retimed both of my cams to 108 C/L using the time consuming dial indicator method.

I then used the McMaster Carr M6 x 16 flange head socket screws (Performance Mod: A Better Slotted Cam Sprocket Bolt) to secure it. The advantage of these hex screws are they increase the surface contact area on the cam sprocket. The screws are manufactured by Brossard and are rated to 176,000 yield and not made in China. Since I don't drag race, I used the servicable Locktite. Suzuki recommends a torque of 7 ft-Lbs so I torqued mine to 10 ft-Lbs.

Since I had it apart so long I repolished all the aluminum pieces, repainted the oil cooler thermostat, bracket etc and will be installing new Parker oil cooler hose. Should be running in a couple of days.

Should have the new oil cooler lines installed
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top