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Why inline taps suck.

robertbarr

Forum Sage
TGSR Superstar
Past Bard Award Winner
One of the first issues I knew I had to address on the 'new' GS1000 was the electrical. Dave mentioned some less-than-professional evidence, including a hidden ignition kill switch for anti-theft purposes. Various fairings had been added and dropped over the years, and each time, someone had to modify the wiring. Nasty looking results!

What concerned me right away, on the first ride, was the fact that the instrument indicators -- especially the digital gear indicator lights -- dimmed substantially every time the turn signal flashed 'on'. So the gear number would blink, almost, along with the signals.

In other words, there's a significant resistance somewhere that's dropping voltage as the bike's lights try to pull current through it.

Behind the headlight shell I found a serpent's nest of poorly done electrical modifications and cheap connections. It's probably not as bad as it looks to me; I'd estimate a full day's work getting it back to reasonable & reliable condition.

Anyway, there were a bunch of these, including two (why?) in a row connected to the first power lead from the ignition switch. Click here to see what I'm talking about:

Once I removed the connectors, the results were evident. This is worth looking at.


tap2.JPG



Two spots right in a row, on the one wire that feeds the rest of the bike, and the connector bit almost completely through! The resulting wire has the capacity of perhaps #20 or #22! There's almost no doubt that the wire is weaker than the fuse that protects it. That might explain the brown burn marks nearby. Holy chit! This is, basically, sabotage. I've seen heavier wire on Ipod headsets.

The moral of the story is: When the bike is trying to tell you that there's a problem, don't ignore it or hope for the best. Get in there and explore! This little time bomb has a number of friends hiding here, on a bike that's cosmetically gorgeous, and they're all waiting for the opportunity to pi$$ me off in a major way.

Here's a wider view of the wiring. The file is kinda big, so I'll just post a link: ... and all the tape on earth won't straighten this out! This will take most of a day, and plenty of solder & shrink tubing.
 
Oh, I hate those damn Scotchloks. Hate 'em, hate 'em, HATE THEM! :mad:

Thanks for the clear evidence -- hopefully it'll stop someone.
 
I just bought some too. Guess ll give to an enemy.

What is the better way to tap into a power source? Like the brown wire to the tail lights?
 
What is the better way to tap into a power source? Like the brown wire to the tail lights?

You'll get a boatload of opinions, but what I'd do is:

Using a nice sharp single-edge razor blade, slice a cylinder of insulation perhaps 1/4" long off of the existing (source) wire. Strip the end of the wire to be added and wrap that end around the now-bare strands of the source wire. Solder, and insulate with good quality (3M) electrical tape. This way, your original wire is never cut.

If it's possible, slide some heat-shrink tubing over the splice & shrink it. With a 'T' connection like this, there's usually no easy way to get shrink tubing on there.
 
I had to track down the same issue on my truck tail lights. P/O or uhaul dealer used a box full of those darn things. May have been a quick fix but what a headache later on! Thanks for the reminder
 
There are some nice scotch loks used in telcos. They have an airtight gel of some sort in them and sell when you snap em on.

Would shrink tubing slit along its length not work?
 
Using a nice sharp single-edge razor blade, slice a cylinder of insulation perhaps 1/4" long off of the existing (source) wire. Strip the end of the wire to be added and wrap that end around the now-bare strands of the source wire. Solder, and insulate with good quality (3M) electrical tape. This way, your original wire is never cut.

This is how it did it on my gsxr for the front directionals. There are the 2 bullet connectors for the harness that they plug into however, because they are aftermarket lights there is a third wire for continuous power for running lights. The small problem I have is when removing the fairing I have to unravel the third wire from the power source.

Thanks for the advice on these tap connectors.
 
I really prefer doing the strip and solder onto any wire but sometimes that's hard to do.

In my past career of vehicle testing we have to tie our test instrumentation into all types of vehicles for just a few months to years before returning them to stock. The 3M connectors do have a nasty habit of cutting through the copper strands. However the Posi line of connectors work very well and do not cut the wires.

http://www.posi-lock.com/
 
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The 3M connectors do have a nasty habit of cutting through the copper strands. However the Posi line of connectors work very well and do not cut the wires.

http://www.posi-lock.com/

I just looked over those connectors the other day. What a coincidence. I've ordered some, along with their inline fuseholder.

Before I did any repairs, I measured the voltage at the headlight. Wow! 8.13 volts on low beam, 7.92 on the high beam, without the bike running. I'm shy about 4+ volts! I also discovered that with the headlight unplugged, the horn works. With a headlight, there's almost no horn (Sounds like an ailing lamb, or something) even with the engine running. 13.9v at the battery at around 2500 r.p.m.

I had already intended to Eastern Beaverize the headlight, and the kit should be here Monday. I'll review that when it arrives; they promise (sort of) a voltage drop of 0.1 volts. That should take a lot of the load off of the rest of the harness.

I had forgotten what a PITA it is to solder these ancient copper wires. It's necessary to remove decades of oxidation even from insulated portions of the wire, so I used a miniature wire wheel on a Dremel (the answer to every electrical problem...) and cleaned the wire with acetone before soldering. As it is, one of my connections never 'took' -- I never had that instant when the solder abruptly flows through the connection and bathes the copper. This means that I didn't prepare the connection properly, even after that effort.

I don't trust it, and it's less than a centimeter from the connector for the ignition switch, which I don't want to kill with heat, so I'm going to do an 'end run' and wire around the connector altogether. It's perfect timing to discover those Posi-Locks, since they're so easily reversible. I can run directly from the harness to the switch wiring, and not worry when I'm a zillion miles from safe harbor.
 
I have one of those posi-lock T connectors that came with a sort of auxiliary speedometer I've been trying out. What I don't like about it is that it still leaves a conductor exposed to the elements. Maybe that's not as big of a deal as I think. Perhaps I should drop a booger of liquid tape on it to seal where the insulation is pierced.
 
What I don't like about it is that it still leaves a conductor exposed to the elements. Maybe that's not as big of a deal as I think.

The same company makes water-tight versions, but perhaps TooManyToys could clarify if the connectors he used were on a vehicle's interior or under the hood, and if there were any problems from oxidation / corrosion.

I had never heard of these until a few days ago, so I'm also curious about long-term effectiveness versus existing methods like crimping on bullet connectors. They certainly are effortless, and at least they don't slice conductors on the way in.
 
Or grab some silicone self fusing tape, but that doesn't seal to the insulation.

Robert - We used Posi's under the hood and under the vehicle, such as if we had to tap into the rear ABS sensor at a Ford rear axle pumpkin, then sealed with the following.

At my facility what I had my driver-mechanics use on exterior splices was a 3M product that we found very durable, and very hard to remove after 3-5 or 10 years of service. I used in what I called a "flag". This way it adheres to the insulation and you can pinch it tight to the insulator where the tape fold on to itself as well.

The products are not cheap by any means, but I stand by that they are the strongest sealing product you will ever encounter, so you better make sure the solder splice is good. The 3M products are 2210, 2228 and 2229.

215656_113742188707139_104882132926478_117199_2854582_n.jpg


We had to instrument a new design bus at LA Metro that was a Monocoque fiberglass body with disc brakes at all corners to monitor brake performance. Since it was basically a boat hull, there was no way to run the thermocouple and pressure transducer wires from the rear axle up into the cabin without the possibility of sacrificing the integrity, so it had to be attached to the underside of the bus again no holes. The bus design engineers and mechanics said there was no way we would be able to keep anything stuck to the bottom of the "hull". After wiping down the fiberglass with acetone, I used the 2210 4" tape (at about $6/ft) to encase the wires all the way between the axles. And flying back to LA from NJ to fix wires was not an option. It stayed there for 9 months despite the running around LA and going through the bus automated washes.

The 2228 is just as good.

Robert, you helped me out with carb O-Rings so if you want to be the test dog I'll send you a sample of this tape then you can come back to this thread and state if it works or not. Just PM me with your address and what you want to try this on so I know how big a piece to pull off my roll.
 
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Deoxit solves a lot of problems. It's hard to find on the shelf. Here in Indy, Fry's carries it.
 
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