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why is my 1150 shift so hard

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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my 1150 is very difficult to shift... even as it sits... without motor running.


the clutch is new.. EBC professionally installed

any ideas????????
 
Re: why is my 1150 shift so hard

timbaux said:
my 1150 is very difficult to shift... even as it sits... without motor running.


the clutch is new.. EBC professionally installed

any ideas????????
Click to expand...
Please explain the hard shifting further.
 
I have a barnett clutch and my 1150 shifts easy when running , a litter harder when it's not. I have a hard time finding neutral at times (bent shifting fork maybe).

I noticed a big difference in shifting when I changed to a semi synthetic oil. The temperature of the motor came down as well. I have run semi synthetic oil for years in the bike. I now put it in everything. The lawn mower, snowblower but not in any new motors. I guess it is not good to use until the motor is well broke in.

Gerry
 
Re: why is my 1150 shift so hard

My 750 cannot be shifted at all when sitting still without the engine running. I've had other bikes that were like that, so I dont think its anything unique. Mine shifts just fine if moving at all, even if rolled a few inches.

Earl

timbaux said:
my 1150 is very difficult to shift... even as it sits... without motor running.


the clutch is new.. EBC professionally installed

any ideas????????
Click to expand...
 
it is just haerd to shift
u have to push down hard to downshift
and struggle to lift the shifter to make it upshift

hard to find neutral.

no the man who did the installation is known for his work.
 
I have to rock my bike forward and back to get it to shift when the engine isn't running. I think this is normal. The gears have to be aligned in order to mesh with one another. All the clutch does is seperate the gearbox from the engine while you change gears.
 
Double check your clucth adj.I f you are not getting enough throw in your clutch it will drag and your bike will be hard to shift. Also switch to semi or synthetic oil. My 1150 sfits harder with reg oil or if it is not warmed up. But I noticed a big improvment with mobil one synthetic oil . it shifted smoother and the clutch stopped creeping at the tree under high rpm.
 
i thinking abvout changing the oil again..

i did move the throw adjustment one time..
i dont think i am getting the movement. it does shift better when warm so i am kind of confused.. not a mechanic.

any more ideas please.. i am all EARS
 
I dont have an 1150, but I do have an 1100. The clutch release arm on top of the case sits located at about the (relative to a clock) 6:30 position with the clutch fully engaged. Arm travel is aprox 1 1/4" at the end of the arm and the clutch is fully levered disengaged when at the 8:00 position.
Try disconnecting the cable and using a small block of wood, push the lever to see if you have the full range of travel available. If you do not, then my inclination would be to remove the clutch case and check to see that the release bearing assembly is correctly secured to the pressure plate. The release rack located on the centershaft must be positioned
to allow the clutch release pinion shaft to correctly align with the release rack when the cover is installed. If this isnt right, the clutch cant work right.

Earl



timbaux said:
i thinking abvout changing the oil again..

i did move the throw adjustment one time..
i dont think i am getting the movement. it does shift better when warm so i am kind of confused.. not a mechanic.

any more ideas please.. i am all EARS
Click to expand...
 
My 1150 is normally not hard to shift, but last summer it suddenly was hard shifting as you described yours.

I realized that the clutch cable was about to brake, so I changed the clutch cable, after the change the shifting problem disappeared.

I have stock clutch and the shifting feels normal again after the replacement of the cable.

I would check clutch cable and the cable adjustment.
 
kz said:
My 1150 is normally not hard to shift, but last summer it suddenly was hard shifting as you described yours.

I realized that the clutch cable was about to brake, so I changed the clutch cable, after the change the shifting problem disappeared.

I have stock clutch and the shifting feels normal again after the replacement of the cable.

I would check clutch cable and the cable adjustment.
Click to expand...
I experienced a similar situation just before the cable broke. I would adjust the thing and it still didnt help fo more that a very short time
 
If the installation person is known for his work, then I would take it back to him and he can easily identify the problem (and anyone can still make a mistake). I have seen hard shifting due to shift lever interference (hitting the frame or crash bars), worn shift pawls, bent shift forks, worn clutch baskets and 'bowled' metal clutch plates. I have found the last item to be a common problem that is easy to overlook. Overheated metal plates warp slightly into a bowl shape, and this will cause a slight drag in the clutch operation (and thus shifting). It gets much worse, however, when the clutch is disassembled and the 'bowls' are not stacked back together as 'bowls' are supposed to be stack, ie., with all the low ends facing one direction. Internal clutch drag is now seriously increased and the resulting heat causes even more distortion. The manuals all describe the check for this (laying the metal plates on a flat metal or glass surface and checking under the edges with a feeler gauge) but I prefer to just hold all the metal plates together as a pack and see if there are visible gaps, then take each plate and flip it over in place, noting if a big gap becomes visible. Warped plates have to be replaced. When you feel the difference between a dragging clutch and a properly working one you will be amazed.
 
slopoke said:
I experienced a similar situation just before the cable broke. I would adjust the thing and it still didnt help fo more that a very short time
Click to expand...

I experienced the same.

The clutch cable is wraped of thin steel threads, as approx. half of the threads there broken, I think that the clutch cable stretch more than if all small threads are OK.

The extra stretch of the clutch cable makes it impossible to adjust it correct as the travel way (play?) of the clutchcabels "engine-side" is to short and doesn't correspond to the travel way at the clutch lever any more.

Of course, there can be many other reasons for this problem as well.......
 
I also recomend a cable lubing kit . If your cable does not travel freely inside its jacket it will stretch or the cable and jacket together will move and you wont get the propper amount of clutcch travel. Cable lube kits are cheap and its the fastest easiest way to lube your cables. Is your clutch lever easy to pull in? ...................skip
 
if the cable is not installed with the minimum amount of bends it will also interfere with clutch operation
 
some things i will try.....

the clutch cable seems to move... the housing does move (i mean the clutch cable housing.. i can see it wiggle) but i will try to lube that and check to see how much travel i am getting..

also.. someone suggested i put it on center stand... hold down hard on back brake.. put it first.. rev it up some and let go of the clutch.. .. should break sticking plates free if this is a problem.. which i think is what is going on



will let u know in a few days
 
Timbaux, please don't try what that "someone" suggested because you could seriously damage your motor: they don't understand how the clutch works. If there is any clutch disengagement at all, then the 2 sets of plates are not sticking. If they were sticking, you would have direct connection between the motor and rear tire in every gear except neutral. You don't have sticking, you have dragging, and the procedure described will take the force of combustion and give it nowhere to go except to try and break internal motor parts. If clutch plates are stuck, the procedure is to put the bike in neutral (motor off), pull in the clutch (and keep it in), have someone push and then pop it into gear. If it doesn't let go in a few attempts then a clutch teardown is needed.
 
right on time..
i tried to get to the bike this afternoon but it was surrounded by others.. so i guess might try one more time tomorrow and see what i can do... maybe check to see the travel.. etc... make sure my cable is ok.

thanks yall

tim
 
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