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Why Tach Cables Break?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Believe it or not I have had three tach cables break on my 1980 GS850GT in the past two summers. Each time they last about 1000 miles and then snap off about two inches from the end that inserts into the back of the tach. Has anyone else had this problem? It is becoming frustrating to change this twice a year. My local Suzuki mechanic doesn't know why this is happening and just sells me a new cable! Is there any way to lube this cable before putting it on?

Thanks, Terry :D
 
My guess is that you have a problem with the cable HOUSING instead of the cable itself. Theres probably a gall or a pinch inside the housing that rubs your cable and eventually breaks it. Also check to see if the cable takes any serious or sharp bends on its way from the engine to the guage. This can cause the inner cable to bind and wear out prematurely.....

Good Luck
 
Tim is probably right. Perhaps you should get a new inner and outer cable.
You can lube the inner cable with some engine oil, before installing it.
 
The white grease used for engine rebuilding prelube works great for cables. try some of that. :twisted:
 
I use bearing grease on mine I take it out every winter and grease the cable but not to much otherwise it slows the tach down
 
Re: Why Tach Cables Break?

Too sharp a bend where the cable turns to go to the tach. Reroute the cable.

Earl

Terry South said:
My local Suzuki mechanic doesn't know why this is happening
Thanks, Terry :D
Click to expand...
 
I think I have only ever broken one tach cable. As with all such cables, route it so it has the widest and smoothest bends. This can be tricky near the clocks, which is probably why it is busting there.
 
Re-route your cables. Make the curves and loops as wide as possible.

You MUST have too sharp a bend somewhere to do this damage.

You can buy cable grease, but probably the easiest way to do it is to get a bit of normal grease on a plastic or cloth pad in your hand. Grip the pad around the cable very lightly and pull the cable through it.

Hold the cable sheath (outer part) upwards and run regular motor oil through it.. Let it drip free and install.

White grease works, but tends to dry out. Use regular grease instead.
 
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