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wider tires. whats it take?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Madwombat
  • Start date Start date
Mixing radials with bias ply tires can have very dangerous consequences.

Some Concours riders mix bias and radial tires all the time. No problems. I myself plan to have this setup on mine this spring. Radial front and bias rear. I can't see anything dangerous about it.
 


The Concours was introduced in '86 with radials in some countries and bias in others. The 'other' tires were then listed as an option. They were intro'ed in the US with radials; bias ply tires were the option.

A lot of tire stuff is liability related, especially regarding patches and plugs. Pick up an old Triumph shop manual and you'll learn all about tube patching. Mixing the tires on the ZG-1000 works for many owners. All Dunlop is saying is: 'if you mix 'em and crash don't sue us, what does the oem say about tires'
 
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The Concours was introduced in '86 with radials in some countries and bias in others. The 'other' tires were then listed as an option. They were intro'ed in the US with radials; bias ply tires were the option.

A lot of tire stuff is liability related, especially regarding patches and plugs. Pick up an old Triumph shop manual and you'll learn all about tube patching. Mixing the tires on the ZG-1000 works for many owners. All Dunlop is saying is: 'if you mix 'em and crash don't sue us, what does the oem say about tires'

Interesting, I guess that combo works for that bike. Seems like the consensus though if you read a few more of those links is that mixing radials with bias plys can be dangerous because of the different way they react to sideways loads, which can lead to unpredictable behavior while cornering. Wouldn't want the radial to grip while the bias ply is slipping, for example due to differences in gripping ability. Not so much an issue on a cruiser where lean angle tends to be low, but very unadvisable on say, a sportbike. In fact, in the UK it is "illegal to use a bias-ply tire in the rear and a radial tire up front" for this reason. Not trying to be argumentative, just something to think about.
 
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No argument, I appreciate your concern for our members. We go thru this over on the Concours site too. One of the guys over there swears the world will end if you mix tires. Guys that do it shrug their shoulders.

In real life though, you hit a bump while cornering and the front and the rear of the bike are both going to handle the bump differently simply because...they are differnent. The difference in tires simply becomes part of this overall difference. Does it become too different to ride? I will agree with the FJ article you linked to, "the rider is the test pilot" he always was.
 
What about an 180 w/ GSXR 5.5" on stock swingarm from a GS1000SZ?
I heard it is an easy swap but looking at it, the rear brake arm is in the way. One of my Kats has a flattend rear brake torque arm the other a round tubular one. What gives? WHcih will be easiest to convert?
 
What about an 180 w/ GSXR 5.5" on stock swingarm from a GS1000SZ?
I heard it is an easy swap but looking at it, the rear brake arm is in the way. One of my Kats has a flattend rear brake torque arm the other a round tubular one. What gives? WHcih will be easiest to convert?

GS1000 arm is too narrow for that size rim. However, a GS1100 swinger slots right in and lets you run the 5.5" rim for a 180. You have to swing the torque arm to the other side of the swingarm to make it work - weld a new bracket on the underside of the arm. The 1100 aluminum swingarm is also much lighter than the steel 1000 arm.
 
Ok. So I could actually fit a 180 on the stock rear swing arm of my 1100L? wow, didn't think it was that wide. I might go with that instead of the 160.

My swing arm is also aluminum? I didn't know that. the rest of the bike is steel right? How come they make the bike steel and the swing arm aluminum?
 
Ok. So I could actually fit a 180 on the stock rear swing arm of my 1100L? wow, didn't think it was that wide. I might go with that instead of the 160.

My swing arm is also aluminum? I didn't know that. the rest of the bike is steel right? How come they make the bike steel and the swing arm aluminum?

Chain drive yes, shaftie, no. I'm referring to the E models. Shaft clearance is the limiting factor. No idea on the L's. Anyone?
 
well my L is chain drive as well. no idea if the E and the L use the same swing arm though.
 
OK. so if anyone wouldn't mind spending a few minutes. I wanna go to 180 rear and 110 in the front. What would the list of parts I would need to do the rear? Specific years and models would be awesome. all I know so far is:And thats all I really know. Also, what for the front. would it be best to just try and find a complete front end and be done? or should I try and get some parts from one bike, and some from others, mixing and matching to make a better front end?

Thank you so much for all your help.
 
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No one? I gotta order a new chain. does anyone atleast know what the stock tooth count would be on a 1980 GS1100L?
 
You have to be a little careful about ordering sprockets. Some of the wheels use a 5 bolt carrier and others 6 bolt. I believe either JT sprockets or Vortex has diagrams and measurements for the bolt patterns on their website.
 
GSXR 1100 front ends are recommended for their ease of installation, length, brakes, fork stiffness, and their 17" rims designed for radials.


I mounted an '88 gsxr 1100 front end with 18" rim from an '87 gsxr1100 on mine, and was a direct swap. Easy, even for me. With rim size change and difference in fork length, front dropped ~3/4".
 
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