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will a 82 850 motor work in a 77 750 frame

  • Thread starter Thread starter alstone89
  • Start date Start date
just not a simple bolt in is all i'm saying.
some of the members on this board has a hard time charging there oil let a lone adapting non fitting engines in there GS's.
no offense to the problem-ed oil changers out there.
KISS
keep-it-simple-stupid:)
 
Yep, the 1000 (and the 1100) goes in pretty easy. I forget which brackets you need to manufacture (is it the lowers? Somebody remind or I'll be trying to remember for the rest of the week).

BUT......... you lose the kickstart. Go the 850 top end route and keep the kicker.
 
Checked my 850 cylinder sleeves last night and they only measured 3mm thick. I'm sure this must be thinner than my 750's, which can have 2mm bored out for wiseco pistons, so I'm hoping for a direct swap with no grinding (I'm a bit paranoid about grit and metal chunks going in the cases).

Found an old post by Tkent saying the earlier 850 cylinders were thinner too.

I'll compare tonight when I strip down the 750.
 
you're thinking of grinding the liners opposed to the cases?

.... not the best route imho - far easier to dremmel out the case or get it bored out. the same goes for gsx11 motors and 1150 barrels.... a dremmel and a little patience and they slide right on. loads of other work required but i wouldn't gring the liners. strip the bottom end and do it properly.... just my 2p worth ;)
 
OK did it.

The 850 cylinders sat about 10mm out of the cases. The two outside sleeves catch and by gently tapping the cylinders into the cases they marked where they were hitting.

I didn't have any grinding tools available but figured since it was aluminium I could probably chip/scrape away at it. Sacrificed a small wood chisel and had them sitting flush in about half an hour.

BEFORE:
 
Where they hit.

Look centre top third of photo. And matching section acroos from that.
 
I tracked down a 83 750 and carbs for 150.00 ..would that work in the 77 frame ?
stoney
 
would a 81 750 16 valve head work with the 750 77 bottom end ?
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------no--------------------------------------------
 
yes i like that idea but i have had no luck finding one...but i keep finding great deals on 750s ..and if one of them would work at least i could get the bike on the road in the mean time. thats why i keep asking these damn questions sorry if i am annoying you
 
Will a 1974 moped engine work in the 77 frame..??har har ..i picked up a 77 750 engine and a 82 850 for 75.00 each both running good . The 77 kick start will not engage the engine , is there a shear pin in side that could have snapped ?
Stoney
 
77 GS750 Clutch cable connection, engine side HELP PLEASE?

77 GS750 Clutch cable connection, engine side HELP PLEASE?

Here is a picture of my problem

10i5s8y.jpg


I couldnt bend the tab to get the old cable out so i unscrewed the bolt and nut that goes into clutch shaft....

now i put everything back together and fit the flat end to flat and, but when i pull the clutch i only get resistance from the spring...there is no clutch disengement feeling.

If you looking at the pic: i can grab thepart that has the threaded hole and the 2 flat sides, and i can turn it 360 degrees...

was i not suppose to take the nut and bolt out?

is my solution behind the cover with the 3 screws you can see in the pic that form a triangle?

please help, i may have to buy a manual if i cant figure it out soon, i just missed the bike night at quacker state and lube because of this ****...
 
STEP 1..At the clutch lever there is an adjustment screw with a jam ring..set that about half way in on the threads

STEP 2..down on top of the sprocket cover where the cable passes thru set that adjustment about half way as well

Step 3..swing the arm back up and put the washer back on, insert the screw back in till you feel it bottom out against the clutch push rod and then put on the nut but dont tighten the nut..leave it slightly loose

Step4..turn the screw in or out till you start to get the resistance back from the pressure plate against the pushrod when you squeeze the clutch lever. when the clutch lever is at the fully released..away from the grip..you should be able to move it a little bit just before you start to feel resistance while squeezing.

Step 5.. get on, squeeze in the clutch and start the bike..put in gear and slowly let out the clutch just enough to see where it starts to grab. you should have about 3/8 inch play between the clutch lever and the grip before the clutch starts to engage. Fine tuning adjustments can now be done at the clutch lever and on top of the sprocket cover. once you get it just as you want it..tighten down all the jamming nuts and replace the clutch accuator cover.

Post script..the thing with the three screws in the back is like a throw out bearing in a cars clutch,,basically the motorcycle version of it..spray some white litium grease down in there to lube up the ball bearings while you got it apart..and it is in the correct position just like it is now in the picture,..,just swing the arm back up and put it all back together as is.
 
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