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wire wheels

At last! a bit of positive progress, My wheels are back and will get no better so I'm going with them anyway, I fitted the front tyre and the wheel is back in the forks and I have to say looks ok. I will take a picture tomorrow.
The rear wheel is going to need a bit more effort I was going to put a 140/80/17 but as I'm going for it I've decided to go 150/70/17.
The chain will have to be moved. I found these on ebay.

P1050206.jpg


The one on the left is the stock sprocket with the teeth removed as I was going to make my own, the middle has an offset of 6mm and the right is 3/8 (10mm). These came from the US and are a nice quality.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230395285476?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I will pull the back wheel tomorrow and see what I have.
 
Here is a picture'v the completed front. The tyre is a 110/80/17, it might be possible to go to a 120 but not on this 2.50 rim.

P1050226.jpg
 
Today I got the tyre onto the rim and mocked up the fitting of the wheel with a bit of measuring, and my conclussion is that it's going to be a lot easier than I thought and I'm pretty sure I will not need to use those offset sprockets on this.
I will have to kink the brake torque arm and make up spacers.
The 150 tyre fits into the gap very well, there is still a way to go till its up tight.

Can anybody tell me at what point the gap between the tyre and chain becomes too small? The reason I'm asking is because while the chain run looks fine, the rear wheel has not been centered in relation to the front wheel so this picture might change a bit. Worst case will be 9mm
P1050235.jpg
 
When I ran the 170 in my 750ES the gap I had between tyre & chain was 4mm from memory. Never had any issues with it rubbing.

I am currently looking at fitting a 150 using a GS1150 wheel. I think you are going to end up with a bit less than 9mm if my initial findings are correct.

Is that an Avon AM26 on the rear too?

Where are you in Kent? I grew up right on the borders of Sidcup/Kent :)

Dan :)
 
When I ran the 170 in my 750ES the gap I had between tyre & chain was 4mm from memory. Never had any issues with it rubbing.

I am currently looking at fitting a 150 using a GS1150 wheel. I think you are going to end up with a bit less than 9mm if my initial findings are correct.

Is that an Avon AM26 on the rear too?

Where are you in Kent? I grew up right on the borders of Sidcup/Kent :)

Dan :)

Dan you're right, it is going to be about 6mm. there is a total of 8mm spacing difference between the ally wheel and wire wheel and from what I can measure the whole lot can bolt straight in with just one new spacer made up on the outside of the brake hanger. At most there will be an will be an error of 1mm, (Still to be finalised)
There is 2mm clearance on the brake torque arm, closer than I'd like and I will change it.

Yes they're AM26 Road Riders.

I'm down near Canterbury, Sidcup is near St Mary Cray? I used to work for a company that had their head office in Bromley.
I'm following your 1100 wheel thread with interest. :)
 
This mod was finished a couple of days ago and I got a chance to take it out today and here it is. The thing that has pleased me the most is the annoying 'S' speed weave has gone even when I managed to tune it out it was always potentially there waiting to break through. Well its gone completely! I couldn't chuck it about on the twisty bits round our way because the roads felt damp and slippy so I made do with what I could.
Anyway, here are a couple'v finished pictures.

P1050258.jpg


P1050259.jpg

This thread started as an appearance mod but kind'v became a project so seems in the wrong place now. Sorry for that.
 
My congratulations to you!
The bike looks beautifull:)
I had that same weave on my GS 1000 S and after changing everything, I discovered that the Tarozzi fork tubes I was using created some stiction.
I changed the tubes back to OEM and the weave disappeared.
The bias ply tires must play a role also I'm sure:rolleyes:
What fork tubes are you using?
I will most probably put wire wheels on my Kat but I haven't decided on the sizes yet...
 
Thanks for the compliment,
I've owned four S'es and they've all had the weaving at various times and speeds not always consistently and no matter what I did, I've tried everything over the years. Usually it is just an annoying weave that changes all by itself no matter what you do, but you know it is always there. It has completely gone now.

I'm using Katana tubes on this bike to compensate for the smaller wheel. I have only ever used oem stuff. (When I've got nothing better to do maybe I'll drop the tubes through the yolks and see if the weave comes back, because that has changed by 1/2 an inch).
There is 6mm clearance on the chain side and 2mm on the brake torque arm, I will change that later.
 
My weave would only occur in medium to fast bends mostly when I would cut the throttle.
I detailed the issue in this thread:http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=173347&highlight=1000.
Following that, I built a GS 1000 XP with GSXR 1100 suspension, wheels and brakes.
One of the most fun bikes I've ever ridden:)
The only issue is that having changed all these components simultaneously, I don't know what really made the difference in roadholding?
 
I remember reading some of that post a while back. I know the weave problem has always been an 'S' issue, sometimes worse than others, I will ride the bike more and see how it goes.
Just to mention that on my first 'S I had, in '81, on the way home it developed a weave which I tried to accelerate through that turned into a violent tank slapper that tried to shake me off it was very scarey.
This bike has not been bad but it has always been there under the surface ready to start (probably when I would least want it to!)
This is rock solid now.
 
What's for sure is that if you remove the quarter fairing the weave disappears:).
But you are right, with the fairing on the bike you can feel that the hidden beast wants to bite you...
 
Your bike turned out great, Tatu.
I really do like the look of spokes.
Are you tall? The bars and mirrors are significantly higher looking than stock.
 
Your bike turned out great, Tatu.
I really do like the look of spokes.
Are you tall? The bars and mirrors are significantly higher looking than stock.

Thanks, I'm happy with how its turned out.
No, I'm average, The bars are from an SP370 and have been the only bars I've ever had on these bikes right from my first one.
And that pesky high speed weave is back, honestly it just comes and goes all by itself.
 
And that pesky high speed weave is back, honestly it just comes and goes all by itself.
Tatu,does your bike have a fork bracing device?
Take it off and see what happens.
IMO the problem is enhanced by the quarter fairing but the issue is really in suspension stiction.
It can be from the front but also from the rear as I learned by taking my old Konis off the bike...
My weave used to come more in downhill curves as you released the throttle.
Today, I can chop the throttle without any issue even in fast downhill corners:)
 
The weave is something that really has a mind of its own, I went out for a good long ride out today and it was firm and completely stable not a twitch all day.
There was a chap at the IOM TT that advised a steering damper and dropping the tubes an inch through the yolks. and that definatly helped, its just that steering dampers tend to mask problems and I would rather be doing something about a potential handling issue at the lower speeds where it belongs not at high speed when it becomes much more of an issue.
Yes there is a brace, I'll try taking it off and see what happens.
I do know that if I tuck in behind the fairing it does set it off/ get worse.
You're right it is the fairing.
 
You're right it is the fairing.
Well the fairing just triggers the weave but the root cause lies deeper.
I'm like you and don't like the idea of hiding the issue with a steering damper.
Tell me what happens without the fork brace.
BTW have you adjusted your shock absorbers like Ohlins recommends?
It's very important to get enough static sag so that you use the full range of the dampers and never hit the stops...
 
Tatu, that is really a nice looking bike, those wires just work so well with it, good choice, it really is a head turner.

Now please excuse my ignorance but I don't understand this whole fairing and weave thing. :confused:
The feeling seems to be that he "S" fairing causes a high speed weave and it seems that most agree to some degree or another.
I highly doubt Suzuki would have put a bike out for production until such an unsafe quirk had been rectifed, I find it hard to believe that a bike would roll off the showroom floor with such a quirk.
Secondly if the fairing was designed foor the S then it should work on the S, if not great on any of the other models, although the 2 valve liter bikes are so similar I doubt there is much in it.
Thirdly, my 1000G ha spent a great part of it's life adorned with an S fairing and I have never, in hundreds of thousands of Km ever experienced this wobble or weave, at any speed, and I have spent hours at WOT, tucked in or prone, she has always been rock steady.
Can someone with more knowledege than I in these machines please explain this phenomenon, as I have never experienced it, I will not easily be convinced it is the fairing at all, there has to be an underlying fault with the bike.
 
have you adjusted your shock absorbers like Ohlins recommends?
It's very important to get enough static sag so that you use the full range of the dampers and never hit the stops...


Yes is the short answer, the Ohlins took me a while to dial in. I think I might try the stock shocks later as the weave is the same no matter how expensive the shocks.
 
Tatu, that is really a nice looking bike, those wires just work so well with it, good choice, it really is a head turner.

Now please excuse my ignorance but I don't understand this whole fairing and weave thing. :confused:
The feeling seems to be that he "S" fairing causes a high speed weave and it seems that most agree to some degree or another.
I highly doubt Suzuki would have put a bike out for production until such an unsafe quirk had been rectifed, I find it hard to believe that a bike would roll off the showroom floor with such a quirk.
Secondly if the fairing was designed foor the S then it should work on the S, if not great on any of the other models, although the 2 valve liter bikes are so similar I doubt there is much in it.
Thirdly, my 1000G ha spent a great part of it's life adorned with an S fairing and I have never, in hundreds of thousands of Km ever experienced this wobble or weave, at any speed, and I have spent hours at WOT, tucked in or prone, she has always been rock steady.
Can someone with more knowledege than I in these machines please explain this phenomenon, as I have never experienced it, I will not easily be convinced it is the fairing at all, there has to be an underlying fault with the bike.

Thanks, It definatley turns heads.

I have owned four'v these S'es and they have all had this to some degree, when I picked up my first S' the weave started gently enough and as I tried to accelerate through it it got so bad it was trying to shake me off, braking made it worse.
Interesting that your bike has not had the problem dressed as an S', none of the bikes I road tested had this either, but its not that bad and I've resigned myself to the fact that is what S'es do as most times it isn't there.
I was out most'v theday today and it was solid not a single twitch, and I'm always flat chat on the open bits.
What I can't get my head around is it isn't consistant.
All my S'es have been the genuine thing.
The best way to describe it is it is more of a side to side rock and it starts from the front getting worse on the bends. I had been told by someone at Suzuki GB that the 1000 had a batch of swing arms that were distorted and that they were onto the problem. But all that was years ago.
 
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