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wiring stator ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jeffgs
  • Start date Start date
J

jeffgs

Guest
I purchased an Arrowhead stator and tore down the bike for r&r, my bike has a whiteblue, whitegreen, and one yellow wiring, the new stator has 3 yellow wires. i am so happy. Can you you link me with a simple wiring how too? Sorry i have to use my phone for internet, i don' t have a computer and it is a nightmare for searches.
 
Connect your new stator directly to the R/R, bypassing the old harness. The color codes don't matter. Make sure the R/R is properly grounded, direct to the battery is good or a solid frame point. The R/R power output should go back into the factory harness. You need to check for voltage loss in that circuit, power output on the way to the battery, and make sure you are not losing voltage due to resistance. Use a voltmeter and put one probe on the battery + terminal, and the second on your connection from the R/R to the red wire on the harness. If you are losing more than .3 volts or so, you have too much resistance in that circuit.
 
Nessism and Tom, thank you I have just printed this off. Tom I am not just throwing parts at it. I did find elevated resistance in the wiring and have replaced grounds and battery positive. The R & R had also failed. I replaced the Stator as a precaution. Not saying it was the right thing or not nor do I think the aftermarket stator is as good as the OEM, it was just 35 years old. I work for a dealership and everytime we install aftermarket parts they fail almost immediately so I get it.

I have never restored a bike, this is a first. I ride motorcross and have built many cars. I am taking on a new venture and learning so I take all you have a soke it up. Thank you for it
 
jeffgs said:
Nessism and Tom, thank you I have just printed this off. Tom I am not just throwing parts at it. I did find elevated resistance in the wiring and have replaced grounds and battery positive. The R & R had also failed. I replaced the Stator as a precaution. Not saying it was the right thing or not nor do I think the aftermarket stator is as good as the OEM, it was just 35 years old. I work for a dealership and everytime we install aftermarket parts they fail almost immediately so I get it.



I have never restored a bike, this is a first. I ride motorcross and have built many cars. I am taking on a new venture and learning so I take all you have a soke it up. Thank you for it
Click to expand...

Hope you replaced the RR with a series RR and not the OEM shunt type.
 
mrbill5491 said:
Mostly likely a shunt type. There are two brands of series RRs known here and those are the Compufire and the Polaris SH775
Click to expand...

If you read GS Stator in my signature I list 5 different Series R/R's. There are is a third unit (commonly available in the US) made by Cycle Electric which is probably the oldest unit around.
 
jeffgs said:
What is a Rick's 10-202?
Click to expand...
It's an aluminum extrusion stuffed with electronics- trust me, you don't want it cuz it's been made obsolete by recent advances, i.e series R/R's. You know cars,but the charging system on these bikes is a different animal- the stator is not field controlled: by about 2000rpm,it's got a surplus of output which the shunt R/R dumps to ground. Consequently, the stator runs much hotter than needed just about all the time.
 
SH775 8436? This is the number I am seeing when looking at listings. It appears some cover different size engines. Is there a particular one I should look at?

Bear in mind when reading some of this material they are saying the small cc bikes are not having heating issues. Now what that doesn't address is the issue regarding wasting energy verses storing and I certainly understand that coming from the racing world; i.e. capacitive discharge. So I am now intrigued.
 
jeffgs said:
SH775 8436? .......So I am now intrigued.
Click to expand...
It took a while but we knew you'd read all this posplayr stuff eventually.
You want Polaris p/n 4012941 : beware of imitators

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-Regulator-Source-SH775&p=1998089#post1998089
(thanks to Steve)

A local Polaris dealer might negotiate - he' s just going to order it from Polaris.

Seadoo also is using them apparently, and Yamaha. No matter who sells it the real McCoy will have SH-775 clearly marked on it.
 
posplayr said:
If you read GS Stator in my signature I list 5 different Series R/R's. There are is a third unit (commonly available in the US) made by Cycle Electric which is probably the oldest unit around.
Click to expand...


Aaah yeah, forgot those and I have read your GS stator more then a couple times.
 
Wondered if I read the material and listened? Spent copious amount of time reading. Sanded my connections and am shortening ground wires. All corrosion is being cleaned and all new hardware is being used to mount everything. The STATOR is being plugged directly into the R R. I have installed an inline fuse. Once the bike is running I will be checking resistance2014-08-03 15.02.37.jpg and voltage drops in the wiring. Everything is just mocked until I have figured out the path for wiring.
 
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Notice the burn mark in the connector for the old RR............2014-08-03 15.08.37.jpg
 
Here is the plate now all mocked. Once the bike is running (I am going to gravity feed fuel from a different source so I can check all the wiring with the gas tank off while it is running) I will check resistance and then I am going to shorten any wiring and redirect it. Then I can finalize everything.

I appreciate your help, sincerely. I come out of the car world and have never really thought being the field the generator creates and the regulator converting it to DC. If an alternator fails I just replaced it. I took this smack down the same way I did from Paul Klyseck Racing when I had no understanding about cam timing and how cylinder heads work as well as flame propagation. I thought runner size, port volume and lift. Same thing here I was challenged to learn and not be lazy ignorant and foolish and have learned quite a bit, thank you 2014-08-03 15.18.08.jpg
 
Before I read everything I had already bought it. It is a Rick's, at least I knew enuf to make sure it was three phase. It will be an item I address soon.
 
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