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wont run without choke

  • Thread starter Thread starter Paul B
  • Start date Start date
P

Paul B

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Hi. i got a 83 gs1000g wich starts easy. ive done alot on it. but i cant make it run without havin some choke.
any suggestions? im not gonna say what i tryed til ive had some response here and tryed it again =)
(hope you dont make me look stupid when its just a button somewhere, yes, that has happened Before)
 
typically when it won't idle without choke the idle jets and/or circuits in the carbs are not clean yet. You don't mention if they are CV carbs or pumpers or what. Since it's an 83 I'm guessing CV. Also you didn't mention if you have the stock air box and OEM type air filter although with clean idle circuits it would probably idle ok just wouldn't take the throttle very well.
 
Also you don't mention if you have good spark on all 4 cylinders and have at least checked compression and valve lash.
 
newly cleaned carbs. new cdi box, so now i have spark. (wich i didnt Before on 2 cyls)
oem airbox. well the whole Engine is oem atm
valves newly chimmed
and compression tested

perhaps it is as easy as recleaning yes. just seems like i have done that 10 times the last year.

what does the choke rly do ? does it give more lean mix with more air or fat with more gas?
ive had the airscrews started at 1.15 and tryin to work myself from there. but i cant make no difference.
 
The "choke" does not operate like a car's (old-fashioned) choke system. Our "choke" is really more of an "enrichener" system. When activated (probably by the lever at your left thumb), it opens a plunger that allows a richer mixture of fuel and air to get to the engine. While using this system (trying to start the bike cold), do NOT open the throttle AT ALL. The enrichener system relies on high vacuum to operate, opening the throttle will destroy that high vacuum.

Since you bike seems to operate on "choke", that system is probably OK, but the pilot jet and/or mixture screws might be plugged. Actually, seeing you posted your setting for the mixture screws (they are not "air screws"), try another adjustment on them before opening up the carbs again. Turn them in all the way until they LIGHTLY seat. Turn them out three full turns (that is 1080 degrees). That will richen up the pilot mixture enough that you might not even need to use the "choke" to start the bike. At least you won't need to use as much of it. When the bike starts to warm up a bit, slowly back off the "choke", see if it will run without it.

When the bike is warm enough to run without the "choke", slowly turn each mixure screw in, listening for a slight increase, then drop, in engine speed. When you get to the drop, turn the screw back out about 1/8 turn, go to the next screw. Try that for a few days, see if another session of screw-turning will fine-tune it a bit more.
 
Idle jets and circuits are hard to clean once plugged. If, when adjusting the mixture screws, you find the rpm doesn't change it is another indication that your don't have the pilot circuits and/or jets clean yet. Don't feel bad. Most folks have to pull the carbs 3 or 4 or more times before they get them clean.
 
jdvorchak said:
Idle jets and circuits are hard to clean once plugged. If, when adjusting the mixture screws, you find the rpm doesn't change it is another indication that your don't have the pilot circuits and/or jets clean yet. Don't feel bad. Most folks have to pull the carbs 3 or 4 or more times before they get them clean.
Click to expand...

Does this apply to carbs in general (as in VM carbs)?

Not the part about pulling the carbs off multiple times. I can already vouch for that. The part about mixture screws and rpm...
 
Only on the CV carbs where it is a fuel mixture screw and meters fuel from the idle circuit. On smooth bores it is usually an air mixture screw so it meters air. Rule of thumb. If the mixture screw is on the engine side of the carb body it is fuel mixture. If your idle circuits are plugged it will have no effect on idle speed because there is no fuel going through it. If on the air box side of the carb body it is an air screw. But if your idle circuits are plugged adding more or less air will have no effect either. So the difference is that you can actually use a fuel mixture circuit to help clean the idle circuit. Unscrew the mixture screw, careful as there is a spring and sometimes an o-ring in there. Squirt carb cleaner into the screw hole. It should come out back by the butterfly and the idle jet.

I hope that is clear.
 
Bike runs ok on the choke but barely if at all without it? That's virtually always carbs with dirty or plugged slow speed jets/passages. 99%+ of the time.
 
said bike

2013-02-02%2013.45.13.jpg


Does the bike still have open headers?
 
I agree that the carbs still aren't clean. Low-speed and/or enrichener circuits still plugged.

Take your time and it right the first time. It makes it much easier.
 
Paul B said:
... im not gonna say what i tryed til ive had some response here and tryed it again =)
Click to expand...
Well, if you are not going to bother telling us what you have done, how are we supposed to know what you might have done wrong?

Playing "20 questions" is not a fun game while diagnosing a sick bike, especially across an ocean.

And, if that is, indeed, your bike in the picture, there are several here who will not even start offering suggestions. The fact that you are not anywhere within earshot of them has nothing to do with it, it is the general portrayal of motorcyclists everywhere as people who just don't care about others and say "I am going to do what I want, I don't care about you".
 
first thing I noticed is the pod filters and the open headers. Never going to run right with that setup. It will be lean at the low end and fat at the top end. Never ceases to amaze me how people will give up performance for looks.
 
jdvorchak said:
first thing I noticed is the pod filters and the open headers. Never going to run right with that setup. It will be lean at the low end and fat at the top end. Never ceases to amaze me how people will give up performance for looks.
Click to expand...

its all oem atm
 
Datsa Noydb said:
Well, if you are not going to bother telling us what you have done, how are we supposed to know what you might have done wrong?

Playing "20 questions" is not a fun game while diagnosing a sick bike, especially across an ocean.

And, if that is, indeed, your bike in the picture, there are several here who will not even start offering suggestions. The fact that you are not anywhere within earshot of them has nothing to do with it, it is the general portrayal of motorcyclists everywhere as people who just don't care about others and say "I am going to do what I want, I don't care about you".
Click to expand...

what are u gettin mad about. i just wanted someone to maybe help from the top so i would start at the right end.
im gonna do what i want, and i dont care? why r u trippin?
 
JJ said:
I agree that the carbs still aren't clean. Low-speed and/or enrichener circuits still plugged.

Take your time and it right the first time. It makes it much easier.
Click to expand...

ultrasounded them. pulled Everything apart. but il do it again. is there any rep kits i should get maybe?
 
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