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wont start when hot...

  • Thread starter Thread starter s276l
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s276l

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Hi Guys,

This has happened twice to me where I have stalled at a light due to low idle and then the bike will not start for 20-30 minutes.

I just checked the valves.. could they move when the motor is warm causing hard starts?

And yes I will get it to idle correctly

Thanks
 
Hi Guys,

This has happened twice to me where I have stalled at a light due to low idle and then the bike will not start for 20-30 minutes.

I just checked the valves.. could they move when the motor is warm causing hard starts?

And yes I will get it to idle correctly

Thanks
Does it start easily when cold? adjust idle to 1100rpm. So you just leave it alone for 20-30 minutes and then it starts?
 
It starts up very easy when its cold, first touch of the button. Yep I just let it sit for 20 minutes then it starts right up.The bike runs great.

Its 86 right now so im gonna take it out then bring it home, shut it off, then try to restart it.
 
I had the same damn problem.

I think I changed my plugs, cleaned the connections to the coil packs, and checked the gas cap, and cleaned the starter.

I haven't had any problems this summer yet.


I do know that if your Gas cap isn't venting properly, it will cause you to stall in the heat and have Idling problems.

And If your contact pads are badly worn, your starter can act sluggish.
 
I just took it out and it did it again. Let it sit for 20 minutes and it started. I let it idle for 30 seconds, shut it off and it would not start again.

I have new plugs in it.

v8 Merc, I lll try some of what you mention and see if that helps.

Thanks,
Sean
 
Check your petcock and igniter.
The petcock can cause fuel starvation and the igniters can be heat sensitive when going bad.
Also try taking off your fuel cap when not starting and see if it's not venting.
 
it has a new petcock and gas cap. I did take the cap off while trying to start and it didnt work.

What/where is the igniter?

Thanks
 
Under the side cover... usually the left side cover. It's a black box with at least two wires heading for the signal generator on the right side of the crank....

Check a parts fiche at partshark or bikebandit or similar... you'll see it.

The easiest fix for that is to fit a Dyna S ignition. www.z1enterprises.com is a good place to get one...
 
Well you just changed the plugs so carry the old ones with you and check spark the next time it happens. I've been having the exact same issue and just checked my coils to find them only getting 8.5V :eek: Cleaned all sorts of connections but could only get them up to 9.2V (on battery only). The voltage drops at idle and resistance goes up when hot.

Needless to say I just finished the coil relay mod. Will let you know in a while how it works. But it's safe to say that 8.5V wasn't helping any situation.
 
Check your pulsing coils, old pulsing coils sometimes start to fail only when they get hot. You can simulate the on road conditions with a hair dryer to the pulsing coils while doing an ohm check.

Good luck
 
Needless to say I just finished the coil relay mod. Will let you know in a while how it works.

Day one of coil relay mod. Took a short ride, got her all warmed up, took her to a park and let her idle, then brought her home and let her idle again - no stalling (granted, it's not as warm as it was yesterday when she almost didn't get me home). There's still a little bit of bogging at idle, the occasional dip to ~900 RPM. But never did kill it. Probably need to check those pilot jets again. Each time I've gone to start it today it's turned over seemingly before it's hit even one revolution. HUGE improvement in starting.
 
Under the side cover... usually the left side cover. It's a black box with at least two wires heading for the signal generator on the right side of the crank....

Check a parts fiche at partshark or bikebandit or similar... you'll see it.

The easiest fix for that is to fit a Dyna S ignition. www.z1enterprises.com is a good place to get one...
And when you find your ignitor, put your hand on it before and after one of these episodes to see if it gets real hot.
 
I tested the signal generator right at the pick ups ad got 67 ohms for both, then again when the bike was hot and got 80.

I then checked the wires at the plug going back to the generator and got 80 ohms between the brn and blk and 150 ohms between the brn and grn.

I dont understand why the resistance at the plug between the brn and grn would be so much higher than on the pick ups themselves. Do you think this could be the problem?
 
...now the bike wont start at all... I am getting 10V at the coils but no spark.
 
update... I cleaned up the connect at the ignitor box and now the bike runs and starts when hot... for now... Its hot again today so I will put her to the test.
 
update... I cleaned up the connect at the ignitor box and now the bike runs and starts when hot... for now... Its hot again today so I will put her to the test.
It can't be stressed too much to clean all the vital connections on 30 year old bikes!Hopefully that solves it, but I found your ohm pickup readings strange compared to my 650- maybe another member will doublecheck this.
 
Under the side cover... usually the left side cover. It's a black box with at least two wires heading for the signal generator on the right side of the crank....

Check a parts fiche at partshark or bikebandit or similar... you'll see it.

The easiest fix for that is to fit a Dyna S ignition. www.z1enterprises.com is a good place to get one...

Is the Dyna S now called the Dyna 2000? Thats all I could find on the site... Also it says its for a 78-81. I have a 82'
 
Is the Dyna S now called the Dyna 2000? Thats all I could find on the site... Also it says its for a 78-81. I have a 82'

If you need it you can get the DS3-2 (an eBay seller, ATV Galaxy, sells them for ~$117 shipped). I know it says 78-81, but it will work on a GS550LZ. Trust me. See my sig ;) Some 82 models have electronic advance and require the Dyna 2000. The GS550 isn't one of them (until 83).
 
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