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Won't Start

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS650E_81
  • Start date Start date
It feels flimsy but it doesn't take much to move it and it won't break. I used the tip of a screwdriver and barely pressed on it. If it does break, I think you'll have other issues to worry about anyway.
 
IIRC I had to put the clamps on afterwards. Just bent them into the shape I needed then maneuvered em around the boot using various tools and a flashlight. I was using old oem clamps. In your case it might not hurt to purchase a set(Yeah, more money). Or find someone on the board who might give ya a deal. I dont have any or I'd send em to ya. You really need oem clamps instead of some makeshift radiator hose clamp.

Dude, no kidding, the carbs on this bike are a serious royal pain.
Keep at it!!
 
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Almost broke my back tonight. No luck getting the carbs on. I discovered two tears in a airbox boot, so I might as well try and find some new ones.

So close, yet so far....
 
I know I will get **** for this, but I wanted so bad to ride tonight...

Got home, proceeded to the bike. Somehow got three of the four airbox boots seated on the carbs. one is on but not clamped.

Put on tank and new fuel line and vaccum line. Fresh fuel.

Held choke wide open, fired right up! white smoked for 2 minutes then died... well damn.

I turned the air mixture screws out once more to 3 total each. I turned the idle screw in a little bit.

Held choke out about 1/4 it fired up and ran for 5 minutes, let out choke died...

Turned the idle screw a little more in. No choke fired it up, it idles about 1100 rpm! :dancing:

Granted when I twist throttle hard it dies, and on the road twisting throttle it doesn't really get up and go.

But it felt SOOO good to get out and ride for just 20 minutes!!!

Fellow GSers, I mean this not as a slap in the face. I thank you all so much for all your help.

I am still going to get new airbox boots and get it vaccum synced.

Felt so nice to ride...
 
Congrats, dude. This has been an epic adventure, hasn't it?
You can do the fastest idle synch while you find someone in the Cinci area with a CarbTune. Again, well done.
 
koolaid_kid said:
Congrats, dude. This has been an epic adventure, hasn't it?
You can do the fastest idle synch while you find someone in the Cinci area with a CarbTune. Again, well done.
Click to expand...

Epic...yes. The carbs were not as bad as I had thought. The hardest part so far has been fooling with getting these carbs on, they are still not on correctly.

I still have to take the carbs off and adjust the floats to 22.4 as well.

This is probably a dumb question, but is there any way I could maybe make the bike pick up when I roll the throttle? I mean it picks up, but barely at all..would that be because of the vaccum leak?

Thanks again for everything Koolaid! I owe you a case of beer!
 
I'll drink to that!

But seriously, it is a combination of events. First and foremost, you absolutely must fix that leak immediately. I recommend letting it set until then.
Study up on the fastest idle synch while you beg for someone in Cinci to come over and CarbTune it.
Then check it out after that. If it does not run correctly we can discuss it.

And you are welcome. If you noticed, the entire community participated, that is just how we are.
 
Hooray! persistence will always will out in long run- nice work. Now send some of that warm air my way- only 35 here yesterday, but they are talking 70 soon and that should banish the ice that has my bike trapped in basement.
 
I missed this before....."This is probably a dumb question, but is there any way I could maybe make the bike pick up when I roll the throttle? I mean it picks up, but barely at all..would that be because of the vaccum leak?"

Do you mean the airbox boot leak? Did you have air filter element in during your voyage. My bike will start and idle OK with no element and sorta run, but I doubt it would be happy if I gave it much throttle with no element.
 
tom203 said:
I missed this before....."This is probably a dumb question, but is there any way I could maybe make the bike pick up when I roll the throttle? I mean it picks up, but barely at all..would that be because of the vaccum leak?"

Do you mean the airbox boot leak? Did you have air filter element in during your voyage. My bike will start and idle OK with no element and sorta run, but I doubt it would be happy if I gave it much throttle with no element.
Click to expand...

I went for a ride again this morning across the street in the cemetery.

I rode around in second gear, when I gave it some throttle around 2-3k it would not accelerate much at all, then when it hit around 3.5-4k it would pick up good.

It was a fun little 20 minute ride. BUT, my girlfriend came to find me in the cemetery, as I came to a slow and went into first, I accidentally let out the clutch and it died. We spoke for about 30 seconds then she was off to grocery shop.

I tried to fire her back up...nothing. I heard it try to turn over just a little bit, nothing. I moved the petcock to reserve, tried... nothing. Hmmm..

I just put 2 gallons of gas in it, so I know it should not be close to empty.

I accidentally touched the manifold when I went to change to reserve. Ouch! damn it burnt my skin. Is it normal to be that hot?? It is about 55 degrees out with a nice cool breeze, beautiful day.

After sitting for about 4 minutes. I tried it again, it cranked for 3 seconds then fired up! YES.

The battery is brand new all gauges and lights are bright.


So was the engine to hot to start back up??

edit: Tom - yes the element is in, everything is put back together as normal.
 
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If you have an intake leak it will run lean. If it is running lean it will be much hotter than normal. If it is much hotter than normal it will be difficult to start back up immediately. See how it all cascades? :(
It is worse with air cooled engines, unfortunately.
 
Stay out of cemetaries- very bad vibes for bike and your girlfriend! Remember that these bikes left Japan running lean and so a leak in airbox makes things leaner as revs go up. Next time it's hot, but seems slow/unwilling to restart, try adding a little choke to richen it up as you crank. You'll get this all sorted out.
 
koolaid_kid said:
If you have an intake leak it will run lean. If it is running lean it will be much hotter than normal. If it is much hotter than normal it will be difficult to start back up immediately. See how it all cascades? :(
It is worse with air cooled engines, unfortunately.
Click to expand...

I see.. I am going to order the new airbox boots. Will it kill the engine if I ride it around in 20 minute intervals? I know heat is bad news so I don't want to crack the block or anything..

I am just trying to get out and enjoy this nice weather.
 
I rode it to the store...bad idea, it died at a stop light and did not start back up. It cranked for one second then nothing.. I finally got it back running after sitting for 20 minutes...

Must be the heat..
 
GS650E_81 said:
I rode it to the store...bad idea, it died at a stop light and did not start back up. It cranked for one second then nothing.. I finally got it back running after sitting for 20 minutes...

Must be the heat..
Click to expand...
So you mean it stopped cranking after 1 second? if so, you got some electrical issues to play with, so don't blame carbs! Check connections! .In 20 minutes in 70 degree heat, the bike is barely reaching operating temp - the ignitor internals are probably at their temp, BUT they wouldn't interfere with cranking.
 
tom203 said:
So you mean it stopped cranking after 1 second? if so, you got some electrical issues to play with, so don't blame carbs! Check connections! .In 20 minutes in 70 degree heat, the bike is barely reaching operating temp - the ignitor internals are probably at their temp, BUT they wouldn't interfere with cranking.
Click to expand...

Which electrical wires should I check ?
 
GS650E_81 said:
Which electrical wires should I check ?
Click to expand...
If it doesn't crank or stops cranking after 2 seconds, I blame the ignition switch or kill switch first- more so if this happens after brief ride. Either of these switches behaving badly would cut power to starter circuit and ignition circuit (maybe this is why it stalled at light). Do you know how to "jump" the starter solenoid ?- this would be a simple test the next time it ceased cranking normally, cuz it bypasses both switches.
 
tom203 said:
If it doesn't crank or stops cranking after 2 seconds, I blame the ignition switch or kill switch first- more so if this happens after brief ride. Either of these switches behaving badly would cut power to starter circuit and ignition circuit (maybe this is why it stalled at light). Do you know how to "jump" the starter solenoid ?- this would be a simple test the next time it ceased cranking normally, cuz it bypasses both switches.
Click to expand...

Nope don't know How. I'm stuck in the cemetery as I write this I never learn do I lol.
I rode for 20 minutes then I wanted to run a test so I sped to 35 applied
The brakes shifted down from 3 to 1 and came to a complete stop and just as I suspected it died and now won't crank at all
 
You're learning alot and more to come! Electrical stuff is much easier than Carb stuff. Find your starter solenoid - should be near battery- little green/yellow wire is the trigger from starter button. By "jumping", we mean to supply + 12 volts to this terminal ( from battery positive ), this will cause solenoid to engage and starter motor to turn. Beware!!!! put bike on centerstand and in neutral for safety, cuz "jumping' doesn't need ignition or kill switch- it will do its thing. Once you figure this out, you can do in cemetery at next stall- if it cranks when bypassed like this, somethings wrong with ignition or kill switch.
 
tom203 said:
You're learning alot and more to come! Electrical stuff is much easier than Carb stuff. Find your starter solenoid - should be near battery- little green/yellow wire is the trigger from starter button. By "jumping", we mean to supply + 12 volts to this terminal ( from battery positive ), this will cause solenoid to engage and starter motor to turn. Beware!!!! put bike on centerstand and in neutral for safety, cuz "jumping' doesn't need ignition or kill switch- it will do its thing. Once you figure this out, you can do in cemetery at next stall- if it cranks when bypassed like this, somethings wrong with ignition or kill switch.
Click to expand...

I REALLY need your guys help now! The bike is stuck in the cemetery, it won't start at all. My GF came and picked me up. :eek:

When I push the stat button all I hear is a very loud humming noise coming from the right side of the bike near the battery/air element. I checked fuses there, they all seemed okay.

Any idea on what this is???? Please help, I need to get bike out of cemetery!!

P.S. I'm a dumbass lol
 
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