• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Wont Start

  • Thread starter Thread starter gs1000emt
  • Start date Start date
G

gs1000emt

Guest
My bike has been sitting for about a month. I always start it every few weeks. It usually starts without a problem. Battery topped off. But it just cranks. Put petcock on prime and choke on but nothing. Just cranks until battery is dead. Has good fuel. Any ideas what to do?
 
Most likely fuel related but I'd check spark first because it's easy. Remove a plug cap, place a known good spark plug in said cap, ground metal electrode against engine and hit the starter button to see if you have spark. Assuming yes, move to fuel.

Put rags under carbs and pull off the float bowl drain plugs. Expect to catch a good bit of fuel...or not, if you have a fuel flow issue. After all fuel is drained, try turning the petcock to Prime and see if fuel starts flowing again.

If you have both spark and fuel in the float bowls, the problem is likely plugged up carbs. In that case, time to clean them. Rebuild tutorial available on Cliff's site or linked in my signature.

Have fun!
 
Make sure "choke" appears to be fully activated at carb end ( cold might cause cable to stick) and use no throttle input when cranking. I suggest using fuel stabilizer over dormant periods, then no need to fire it up regularly.
 
gs1000emt said:
Any ideas what to do?
Click to expand...
Just two:

1. Put some stabilizer in the fuel and let the bike sit until all that white crap gets off the roads.

2. Send me a PM with your phone number, I will stop by after work some day and have a look.



Starting the bike "every few weeks" is not good for the bike. You should not start the bike unless you plan on going for a ride to fully warm it up. Condesation will form inside the crankcase and mufflers, causing problems, unless the bike gets warm enough to evaporate the moisture.

.
 
I havent had a chance to check for spark yet. Im working a 24 hour shift right now. When I get off tommorow morning I will check. It does have stabil in it. I was actually just starting it cause I was going to change the oil and wanted to warm it up to get as much as I could out. Its weird how out of nowhere its not starting. Prob a fuel issue. The carbs need a dynojet kit and new orings before spring anyway but I'd like to pinpoint the problem before I do that. I wonder if my Fuel Petcock (which is less than a year old) isnt priming right. It doesnt smell real rich like its dumping fuel. Def need to rule out spark first though.
 
Hey Bud


Can i ask a couple questions ?

1. What's the temperature where the bike is stored ?

2. How many miles on the bike ?

3. when were the valves last adjusted ?

ant
 
my bike is in my garage. Gets pretty cold at night but not super frigid. The bike has 17,000mi and I have only ridden it around the block a few times. It sat for 10 years so Ive been getting her back into good health. I have not yet adjusted the valves but its on my soon to do list. I havent ran it for more than 15 min because I know it needs the valves adjusted. It has never given me a hard time starting since I had the carbs cleaned but Im going to go through them and put new orings and a dynojet kit. Had a shop sonic clean them but that was when I first got the bike and didnt no any better. I expect it to start but I know it wont run like a top until I get everything done. Its finally slowly coming together.
 
I have allot of bikes, I have a busted gs1000 with 30k and the valve cover has never been of I know its not a good thing. It will Not even come close to starting if it is below 20 out > Your best bet would def be to follow Nessism advice he is the Suzuki guru !

one more question Stock air box or aftermarket filter elements ?


ant
 
Well got it fired up. Turns out my spark plug wire will not clamp down on my spark plug well. Its got Accel wires from the PO and it looks like the type you cut and crimp yourself. They are all kind of loose. What wires do you guys suggest I get?
 
Im getting new NGK Plugs. Thinking maybe Dyna Wires from Z1. Iridium plugs or just regular? Normally in old vehicles I just get regular plugs but wasnt sure with a bike.
 
Get regular plugs- whatever manual says, likely NGK B8ES- someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
Why the dynojet kit for carbs, if it used to start well ? But that proves little, cuz running is the real test for how well the carbs were cleaned. Don't ignore valves- it might be way overdue- get it done and move on to fine tuning the carbs. An early spring is coming, so be ready! Take Steve's offer up if you feel intimidated.
 
Your Accel wires are probably fine, just squeeze the brass fitting in some so it sits tight on the plug. For the plugs, either is fine. Just make sure the heat range is what you need.
 
For a motorcycle, the standard B8-ES are fine. The iridium plugs are better when you have very difficult to access plugs.
 
Thanks! I'll give that a shot and try to tighten up the fitting on the plug before I buy new wires. and Tom 203 I def need to get new orings and dynojet kit cause the bike ran but still wasnt as smooth as she needs to be. I have pods and v&H 4 in to 1 so Im sure i need the dynojet kit and since I dont know what the PO did Im just gonna go through and redo it. Thanks for all your guys help. you have been great as usual. And Im prob definately gonna take Steve up on his offer when it gets closer to riding time. Im sure I will need to consult him after my beginners carb tear apart and upgrades. lol
 
gs1000emt said:
Thanks! I'll give that a shot and try to tighten up the fitting on the plug before I buy new wires. and Tom 203 I def need to get new orings and dynojet kit cause the bike ran but still wasnt as smooth as she needs to be. I have pods and v&H 4 in to 1 so Im sure i need the dynojet kit and since I dont know what the PO did Im just gonna go through and redo it. Thanks for all your guys help. you have been great as usual. And Im prob definately gonna take Steve up on his offer when it gets closer to riding time. Im sure I will need to consult him after my beginners carb tear apart and upgrades. lol
Click to expand...

Steve is the real deal Lucile. One of the best people I've ever met. The kind that will come fetch a poor soul and his bike at 12 at night with his trailer when said soul's bike ended up with a cut brake line and a massive gash in a brand new tire from some road construction shrapnel. :D
He'll set ya straight, and please listen to what he says and don't attempt short cuts cause short cuts can end up as broken bikes or worse, broken riders.

Having said that, I wouldn't suggest continuing to start the bike for a couple reasons. Contrary to popular belief, starting your bike and running it for a few minutes every few days in the winter is actually NOT good for it.
What that does is cause condensation to build up inside the engine. Water in your motor is bad :p. if you feel you MUST start it and let it run, let it run until its good and hot. Allow it to reach operating temps to burn off any water in the oil/motor/exhaust etc. but really you're better off putting some stabil in the tank, running it for a bit to get the stabil into the carbs and then putting the battery on a float charger and leavin it alone until you're ready to work on it or ride it.
Second, if you're running pods and a pipe and don't have a jet kit/haven't done a re-jet, you're playing with fire. Literally. With pods and a pipe and the stock jets and needles, you're running the bike with a very lean mix. This is bad because a lean mix burns very very hot. Continued running with this set up can result in burnt valves among other issues that can do serious damage to your motor. And since you haven't adjusted your valve clearances yet, it's even worse.

We aren't trying to busy your nutts, just trying to keep you from making a sad face if your bike goes boom ;)

Once it warms up a bit, I'm sure Steve will show you and help you get it squared away :) heck, I may even join him :)
 
You sorta implied the bike was new-to-you. There always the possibility that PO rejetted for pods and pipe, but unfortunately there is only one way to be sure- pull them off and investigate. Your to do list is getting longer, so get moving. As was mentioned, poor running bikes are not just frustrating, but dangerous.
 
Thanks guys. I did have the carbs off at one point and saw the main jets said 127.5. I know it needs an oring kit and the valves adjusted next before anything. Im a little intimidated by the valves but there are great instructions on here i will follow. I spoke with steve on the phone last year and he is definitely very knowledgable. He was very generous and offered me help. Look forward to getting this beast on the road this spring.
 
Hmmmm....I dont want to buy a Dynojet Kit unless I have to. When I get in there to replace the orings I will check the #'s on everything. What else should I look at besides the main jets?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top