Worth it to Go Pod Filters??

[GabrielGoes]

THe reason i am even thinking about going Pods is because the previous owner didnt mount the carb really well onto the air box and it is just messy looking... it looks air tight but i just dont like the way some of it looks... the bike idles FINE at like 1300 and starts RIGHT UP all the time no questions asked... if i put on pods do you think i can get the same start-up's after some carb adjustments or do pods generally make bikes start up with more effort... btw does anyone have a good link to K&N filters? thanks

 

[tkent02]

Can you tune carbs?
There's no jet kit available for that 750, it will definitely need jetting with pods.

 

[Steve]

If you are doing it for the LOOKS, I hope you also have infinite patience.

As tkent said, there is no ready-made kit, it will have to be jetted according to the "by guess, by golly" method and lots of plug chops.

.

 

[drejal]

If you REALLY like to pull those VM carbs off, go for it!

I wish I had a dollar for every time I pulled mine off to either fiddle with the fuel screw on the bottom, or change the needle height (is there an easy way to change needle height on vm carbs without upsetting the sync and having to re-sync? I haven't figured it out)

I personally didn't choose to go with pods, but i didn't know what I was getting in to when I bought my GS. Absolutely love the bike, have gotten it to run as well as i think it will with the current setup, BUT, if I ever come across a dirt cheap parts bike, the airbox/exhaust/jets will be returned to stock form so that the bike runs properly.

just my $.02

 

[Turtleface]

Even with a jet kit, pods will require some messing around with to finalize. I'm currently undertaking pods on my 1100E, which is quite popular to modify, and therefore, the majority of the thinking has been done by others. However, I'll still need to mess around with plug chops to set everything perfectly. There may be an complete, nearly pristine 1100E airbox system for sale if I can get these things done right. What's one worth, anyways?

 

[Guest]

If I had it to do again I would have left the stock air box on. Fortunately there is a jet kit made for my bike and it was still more work than it was worth. At least on the 1000E the needles can be raised or dropped on the bike by removing the tank, the covers are accessible and the bell cranks are all bolted to a common shaft on the VM's, so that should not change the sync. I have allen screws on my carbs. I wouldn't want to try it with the stock screws. There is only one screw that forces you to remove it turn by turn, not having clearance to rotate the wrench all the way around. Keep your stock air box and fix it's problems, a lot less work in the long run. A little dielectric grease makes it a lot easier to slide the carbs in and out of the boots. New boots and clamps would not cost much more then K&N's. I like the way it looks, but it was not worth the effort.

 

[Turtleface]

If I had it to do again I would have left the stock air box on. Fortunately there is a jet kit made for my bike and it was still more work than it was worth. At least on the 1000E the needles can be raised or dropped on the bike by removing the tank, the covers are accessible and the bell cranks are all bolted to a common shaft on the VM's, so that should not change the sync. I have allen screws on my carbs. I wouldn't want to try it with the stock screws. There is only one screw that forces you to remove it turn by turn, not having clearance to rotate the wrench all the way around. Keep your stock air box and fix it's problems, a lot less work in the long run. A little dielectric grease makes it a lot easier to slide the carbs in and out of the boots. New boots and clamps would not cost much more then K&N's. I like the way it looks, but it was not worth the effort.

For the record, I spent about the same amount on replacing all the stock airbox rubber with new stuff as I did on my pods and Dynojet kit. So either way should be about the same, price-wise. So, the determining factor becomes the intended use for the bike, as always. I'd keep it stock for a daily driver, but if you wanted to do serious engine mods later on (not really worth it on anything smaller than a 1000 cc model, IMO), I'd go with pods. Sounds like the original poster's carbs just need to be seated properly in order for them to look proper, which is probably what I'd do, especially since it starts fine, everytime.

 

[850 Combat]

I don't know what a '78 750 is like, but I can see doing it to my '78 1000E just to gain reasonable access to the battery. Other than that, I can live with what I have quite easily. I see no reason to take on the hassle.

 

[srsupertrap]

78 GS750 uses the VM26 carbs like the 78-79 GS1000's. At least that's what i thought.

 

[Don-lo]

the bell cranks are all bolted to a common shaft on the VM's, so that should not change the sync.

Oldvet, that bolt on the common shaft allows a huge amount of freeplay, so a resynch is needed. In fact, you can get a fairly close synch just using the freeplay on that bolt (pull the arm up and down then tighten it where you want it). If you ever seem to run out of adjustment on the synch thread/nut, you need to reset the freeplay on the common shaft.


Oldvet, it is a good shortcut: don't pull the carbs, remove the caps, remove the common shaft, and remove the slide assemblies to change needle settings. Just resynch after reassembling.

 

[tkent02]

Oldvet, that bolt on the common shaft allows a huge amount of freeplay, so a resynch is needed. In fact, you can get a fairly close synch just using the freeplay on that bolt (pull the arm up and down then tighten it where you want it). If you ever seem to run out of adjustment on the synch thread/nut, you need to reset the freeplay on the common shaft.


Oldvet, it is a good shortcut: don't pull the carbs, remove the caps, remove the common shaft, and remove the slide assemblies to change needle settings. Just resynch after reassembling.

You don't have to remove the shaft, you can get the screws down in the slides out and change needle positions without even loosening the bolts.

 

[Guest]

That's what I love about this forum, If you overlook or miss something, or make a mistake there is always someone that has been there before and has a better answer. I learn something every day. Thanks guys.