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Yet another Dyna question. Plugs caps?

  • Thread starter Thread starter fmctm1sw
  • Start date Start date
F

fmctm1sw

Guest
I got my Dyna installed and have mostly figured out the issues I had. I still can't get the bike started though. I removed the carbs from the equation and sprayed carb cleaner into the intakes... nothing. The plugs are sparking and my compression is anywhere from 145-160. The timing is dead on, I've checked it over and over.

I decided to check my plug caps and found one of them reading open, all the others read 10K ohms. Here's where I have a question: The Dyna installation guide says coil secondaries are supposed to be around 13.5 to 14.5K ohm. Mine were right around there with the caps removed. Put the caps on and I have about 34K ohms obviously though. The primary resistance on the coils are 4 ohms.

My spark voltage tool says I'm getting 5K to 8.9K volts to the coil wires. Seems low to me. So if you're using a Dyna, what plug caps are you using?
 
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The Dyna S is designed to run with the stock coils and caps. You need either a resistor wire or a resistor cap. Either or, but not both. I'm not familiar with a spark voltage tool so can't comment there.
 
Nessism said:
The Dyna S is designed to run with the stock coils and caps. You need either a resistor wire or a resistor cap. Either or, but not both. I'm not familiar with a spark voltage tool so can't comment there.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Caps definitely 10K and non resister plugs. I'm using the OTC branded version of this tool: http://www.2040parts.com/_content/items/images/46/1108946/003.jpg I'm just stumped. Good compression, spark and starter fluid = no go. Has to be something easy I'm missing...
 
Caps should be 5k. No first hand experience but I think you can take them apart and clean the insides.

Could the spark be mixed up side to side.
 
Nessism said:
Caps should be 5k. No first hand experience but I think you can take them apart and clean the insides.
Click to expand...

Funny, I was just looking at that: http://www.randakksblog.com/spark-plug-tricks/. I have two new 5K caps I bought for my CB750 in my garage somewhere.

Nessism said:
Could the spark be mixed up side to side.
Click to expand...

I tried that as well. I have the coil on the left side of the bike is feeding plugs 1/4 (despite the confusing array of labels on the wires. I'll try to get a picture)..
 
Here's how my plug wires are labeled (to cylinders 1 and 2). I reason it's telling me the black/yellow lead goes to the coil for 2/3 and the white lead for 1/4. FWIW, those leads are going the the (+) side of the coil and the orange/white leads to the (-). I'm not sure what the 1/3 and 2/4 labels are all about but I don't think it's right...

labels.jpg
 
Not worried about the coils, rather the way you are feeding them from the Dyna S.
 
Nessism said:
Not worried about the coils, rather the way you are feeding them from the Dyna S.
Click to expand...

Ah, understand. I set the timing (statically) exactly as described. For the left side coil, my test light comes on exactly at the 1/4 (F) mark (or the full advance mark as their instructions insists for some reason). Either way, right on.

Edit: nice carb tutorial BTW. I refused to pull my floats out when I went through mine having snapped a float post off once before...
 
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In regards to carb float bowls,the techs I managed used a center punch from Snap-on that was spring loaded.You just press it down and it would load itself up and gently snap a center punch for drilling.it worked on float bowl pins because it was a pretty gentle snap without any weight behind it
 
fmctm1sw said:
Ah, understand. I set the timing (statically) exactly as described. For the left side coil, my test light comes on exactly at the 1/4 (F) mark (or the full advance mark as their instructions insists for some reason). Either way, right on.

Edit: nice carb tutorial BTW. I refused to pull my floats out when I went through mine having snapped a float post off once before...
Click to expand...

If you follow the instruction you won't snap the float post. You can't clean the carbs properly with the floats still installed. Maybe dirty carbs is the reason the engine won't fire?

Regarding the Dyna S install, did you twist and hold the rotor against the advance spring when checking timing the way you describe?
 
Nessism said:
If you follow the instruction you won't snap the float post. You can't clean the carbs properly with the floats still installed. Maybe dirty carbs is the reason the engine won't fire?
Click to expand...

Perhaps, I removed the carbs from the equation completely. I'm using carb cleaner in the intakes to try to get a couple cracks out of it.

Nessism said:
Regarding the Dyna S install, did you twist and hold the rotor against the advance spring when checking timing the way you describe?
Click to expand...

I did it that way and it was right on the advance mark. I also let it go and checked it that way it was right on the "F."
 
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