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Zagg's Project: '78 GS750E

  • Thread starter Thread starter Zagg
  • Start date Start date
The stuff on the rotor is epoxy from attaching the magnets. No worry.

Look at the starter clutch section in the parts fishe. That shows two washers, one on each side of the gear.

BTW, photos ARE awesome. Good work.
 
Yes, one washer on each side. It's quite common to only find one though! Lots of people loose one or can't figure out where it goes so they just don't put it back in:confused:
 
Nessism said:
The stuff on the rotor is epoxy from attaching the magnets. No worry.

Look at the starter clutch section in the parts fishe. That shows two washers, one on each side of the gear.

BTW, photos ARE awesome. Good work.
Click to expand...

Oh great, that definitely eases my mind. Starter Clutch! Okay, copy that. Thank you.
 
Fjbj40 said:
Yes, one washer on each side. It's quite common to only find one though! Lots of people loose one or can't figure out where it goes so they just don't put it back in:confused:
Click to expand...

Oh geez, that kind of stuff eats at me. I wouldn't be able to let it go.
 
Fjbj40 said:
Yes, one washer on each side. It's quite common to only find one though! Lots of people loose one or can't figure out where it goes so they just don't put it back in:confused:
Click to expand...
Or, even better, none at all. Which raises the question in my mind - did one or both get into the sump? Did a PO not know or care? Buying them is a pita, as I can't put back something like that without the proper washers in place, and so it has to be OEM parts, not just what I can rustle up locally. Last pair of those I bought, because of a PO, cost me something like a ten spot inc postage - the annoying thing was, I found I needed them just after I'd already taken delivery of some other OEM parts from the same supplier. The actual cost of them was low enough and they could have been included in the immediately preceding parcel.
 
Grimly said:
Or, even better, none at all. Which raises the question in my mind - did one or both get into the sump? Did a PO not know or care? Buying them is a pita, as I can't put back something like that without the proper washers in place, and so it has to be OEM parts, not just what I can rustle up locally. Last pair of those I bought, because of a PO, cost me something like a ten spot inc postage - the annoying thing was, I found I needed them just after I'd already taken delivery of some other OEM parts from the same supplier. The actual cost of them was low enough and they could have been included in the immediately preceding parcel.
Click to expand...

Yeah, definitely. I'm the idiot camped out in the nuts and bolts aisle for 20 minutes comparing washer thickness trying to find the size that matches perfectly and eventually leaving empty handed.... Later paying 3 times the value of the washers in shipping.
 
Carbs assembled and bench synced! Picked up all but 2 of the necessary stainless hex cap screws for the crankcase cover. replaced intake boot screws with stainless from R. Barr and a couple for the starter cover as well.

Next STOP - Valve adjusting!
Timing
Air Box Sealing
Petcock
Calipers
Master Cylinders
Fuel Tank
Wiring Harness
Coil Test
Stator Test
Battery
Battery Box Cleanup and Mount
R/R Replacement
Clutch Assembly
Headlight Mount
Seat Mount
Signals, Brake Light Mount

And then addthet10thingsIforgotandtheadditional10-15miniprojectscreatedsimplybyunboltingandopeningthingsupona37yearoldbikeand I'LL BE RIDING!!!
 
I have a couple questions for when this thing is ready to run...

1. Do I need to change stock carb settings for a V&H 4-1 before running it or wait until I have initial results?
2. Should the airbox and exhaust be mounted before attempting to start and run it?

Thanks!
 
Fjbj40 said:
Yes, one washer on each side. It's quite common to only find one though! Lots of people loose one or can't figure out where it goes so they just don't put it back in:confused:
Click to expand...

Here is as schematic of the assembly:
 
These little washers /shims on starter clutch can be tricky ,when I removed my stator cover 1 fell out bounced off flywheel went through a side hole in crankcase ,I removed sump to retrieve it. couldn't find it .nearly gave up thinking I must have imagined it had gone in sump but eventually located It stuck on top of a bit of crankcase webbing inside engine.Glad I kept looking as who knows where it would have ended up!!
 
cornishgs said:
These little washers /shims on starter clutch can be tricky ,when I removed my stator cover 1 fell out bounced off flywheel went through a side hole in crankcase ,I removed sump to retrieve it. couldn't find it .nearly gave up thinking I must have imagined it had gone in sump but eventually located It stuck on top of a bit of crankcase webbing inside engine.Glad I kept looking as who knows where it would have ended up!!
Click to expand...

I had the same thing happen to me. I searched, shook the motor, etc. Finally walked away for a day and there it was! I was afraid I would have to split the cases to find it!
 
Zagg said:
I have a couple questions for when this thing is ready to run...

1. Do I need to change stock carb settings for a V&H 4-1 before running it or wait until I have initial results?
2. Should the airbox and exhaust be mounted before attempting to start and run it?

Thanks!
Click to expand...


The airbox and exhaust need to be installed prior to starting. Looks like you already have a K&N style air filter, check to see if the main jets have already been replaced, ( I forget stock jets, 97.5? 102.5? someone will chime in) personally I would ditch it and put a stock air filter back in until you have it running perfectly, then you can begin the fun process of tuning carbs and replacing jets :cool: just changing to a 4-1 with stock airbox and filter does not require a lot of change, depends who you talk to.

Another good investment that no one has suggested yet is to get a Dynatek electronic ignition, best money spent, you won't regret it.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-S-Elec...S750-GS-550-GS-750-KD-1977-1978-/380382026185
 
Last edited:
one_civic said:
The airbox and exhaust need to be installed prior to starting. Looks like you already have a K&N style air filter, check to see if the main jets have already been replaced, ( I forget stock jets, 97.5? 102.5? someone will chime in) personally I would ditch it and put a stock air filter back in until you have it running perfectly, then you can begin the fun process of tuning carbs and replacing jets :cool: just changing to a 4-1 with stock airbox and filter does not require a lot of change, depends who you talk to.

Another good investment that no one has suggested yet is to get a Dynatek electronic ignition, best money spent, you won't regret it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-S-Elec...S750-GS-550-GS-750-KD-1977-1978-/380382026185
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks. Yeah, the Dyna is on the list but unfortunately is not an option this time of year. Spring / Summer 2016 for $100+ upgrades unfortunately. I noticed the K&N. Didn't think it would make a difference but I will look into that.

Okay, so here is my noob question of the day: What is the jet number take from? Is this the diameter of the jet? What exactly am I measuring to determine my current jet size? Thanks for all your help!
 
V&H recommends jetting changes and some pretty significant ones when running their systems. You could probably get away with not making changes but if you get the motor running too lean you'll blue those headpipes right away.
 
http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf

Main jet. p/n 36

needle jet p/n 11.

Does anyone remember the p/n for gs1000 the vm28 Jet Needle?

Last time I opened mine up, that what was I was running, my 750 vm26's with a 102.5 main, stock air box and Yosh pipe. That's maybe a little overkill but he can at least start with the next main size up. Check your jets and compare to the many free service manuals from BassCliff here.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
Last edited:
rudeman said:
V&H recommends jetting changes and some pretty significant ones when running their systems.
Click to expand...

That's not the way I recall it. Starting from everything stock:

1. Switch to V&H 4-into-1 - remove the airbox lid (no carb mods)

2. Switch to pods - rejet the carbs

Those were the instructions for my bike, and it worked out fine.
 
This is currently available installation/set-up sheet from V&H.

"GS750 2V -> Increase the main jet to a 115. Pilot Jet should be increased to a 17.5. The needle may need to be raised on notch (lower clip)."
 
Mmm...maybe it was the DynoJet instructions I saw.

And this is interesting: "The following jetting instructions worked well for our climate and elevation." I guess we all live in the same place.

What confuses me is that when I went from stock airbox to pods on my GS, (before I rejetted) it wouldn't run well until I taped over about 7/8 of the pods, yet when I installed pods on my Z1 many years ago (they weren't even called pods then), it ran fine without carb adjustment.

And again, when I blew the metal baffle out the rear on my Z1's pipe, it still ran fine.

I stand corrected on the V&H instructions.
 
Thanks guys. I'll look into this info ASAP.... I've got a little work to do before running it, but hopefully I will be there soon. Thank you very much!
 
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