My '82 GS550MZ Refit

[Guest]

I'm starting a thread here to chronicle the refitting of my new "82 GS550M. The bike was near complete when I bought it, so I don't want to call it a restore, but I do want to keep track of what I'm doing and the condition of the bike.

First, the things that needed to be done to make the bike road worthy (the bike runs, I drove it over an hour to get home... but that probably wasn't the safest thing to do). So this first bit is just the steps I'm taking to get the bike to pass inspection in PA.

item 1: Ordered Tires ($130) - Like usual, I went off half cocked and with bad info (this site didn't have the correct tire size) and I ordered Dunlop vintage tires. I have now returned these tires.


item 2: I ordered break and clutch levers ($12) ( Part # 4498791-001 and 4498781-001 from bike bandit).


These are not the levers that show up when you use the fiche, do a little digging because these are half the price.

The break lever had the end broken off when I bought the bike. When I dropped the bike trying to bump start it, I figured I'd replace both. I also broke the right, front turn signal lens.

item 3: The instrument cluster ($63). The most obvious thing wrong with the bike when I bought it was that the speedometer and tachometer did not work.

I would have been fine just removing them completely, but it appears PA inspection requires you to have a working speedometer. So I decided to replace the cluster. I bought a replacement from ebay (seller name: madmanmotorcycles) for $50. plus $13 shipping. The piece is not in great condition, the seller left out the fact that is was missing several screws and wasn't completely together.


I hope that between the two I can frankenstein one whole one together.

item 4: I bought a new maintenance free battery ($54) from battery stuff.

item 5: Ordered Tires Redux ($84 for tires, $10 for lens). Now know that I know the proper size of the tires for this bike are:
Front - 100/90 - 19
Rear - 110/90 - 18
I bought Shinko 712 for front and rear. I also included the lens that I broke earlier in this order.

item 6: Spark plugs ($10). I actually bought these from Pep Boys around the corner. It's good to know that I can get something local. I bought the NGK plugs the manual suggested.

I have a some writing to finish today, but work on the bike will begin for real on wednesday. Thursday I go the the mechanic, Bike Works in Glenside, PA to get the tires put on ($90 for both), assuming they arrive by then. He is also going to give the bike a real once over ($80) and we will start a list of what needs to be done.

Total investment so far: $1,206.00

(includes tax, title, registration, insurance, helmet, everything associated with and including the bike.)

[detorn]

Scorpion AGM battery arrived today. I hit it with a voltmeter as per the directions, it hit a 12.9 so I installed.

The bike came right back to life, kind of. I started with the choke half way. It purred. I let it get run for a bit since it has been sitting for a week without being started.

I sat on the bike and tried to blip the throttle a little, it stalled right out. I restarted it and let it run a couple more minutes, slipped it into gear to try the throttle again with the same result-stalled.

I felt the pipes, one was not as hot as the other 3. I will put the new plugs in tomorrow and hope that that is why that one is not firing. If the carbs need to be taken out and cleaned I am going to be in way over my head.

What should it cost for a professional to do it?

[detorn]

think I'm going to try to get out from under this while I can... I've posted an ad on craigslist to see if I can recoup the money I have into this so far...

[Big T]

What changed your mind?

You're probably less than $50 from having it running

[detorn]

I haven't changed it 100%. The way I count it is about $250 in parts (4 carb kits, a petcock kit, air and oil filters, carb dip and carb spray cleaner).

Between the fact that I will probably not be able to recoup the money I have invested already and I really do like the bike, may force me to do the repair work.

Just got really down yesterday when I hooked up the new battery and wasn't able to ride.

I'm going to leave the ad up for now and forge ahead on the repairs and just see what happens.

[Griffin]

Don't waste your money on carb kits. Clean them instead, and get new carb and intake boot o-rings for about $20 from www.cycleorings.com .

[detorn]

Let me try asking a couple of questions and maybe I'll have a better understanding of where I am. I have the manual, and like many of the discussions in this forum, and the carbs 101 walkthrough, it assumes a lot of knowledge that I do not currently have.

Problem: I am leaking gas and bike stalls when choke is off, or throttle is blipped.

There are a couple of things I want to find out. Like, where is the gas leak coming from. My worry is that fuel is getting into the engine, and I am nervous about running the bike if this is the case.

I am pretty sure that the 2nd cylinder is not firing. I will install the new plugs wednesday to find out if that is one issue.

Question: what is the best/safest way to drain the fuel? How do I dispose of the fuel once removed? Is there a right/wrong way to remove the tank? the manual does not address remedial issues.

Instead of just ripping everything apart in hopes to find an answer, I'd like to trouble shoot problems. For instance, if it is a petcock problem this should be the behavior, if it is in fact the carbs, this should be the behavior, etc.

[detorn]

Don't waste your money on carb kits. Clean them instead, and get new carb and intake boot o-rings for about $20 from www.cycleorings.com .

Do I have the BS or VM type?

Nevermind, figured that one out by actually reading the site...lol thanks, ordered.

[detorn]

Ordered

Viton Intake O-ring set, large 1 $3.91
Mikuni CV BS series carb O-ring kit, U.S. Shipping 1 $14.73
Mikuni CV carb bowl drain O-ring set 1 $0.01

total so far: 1123.65

[gs scott]

550 Kat

Hang tough, troubleshooting a 27 (soon to be 28) year old motorcycle takes a little time and patience. And, when all you have is a symptom, it takes a process of ruling things out before you find the cure (usually this goes least expensive to most expensive and everyone hopes to finish before you get to the most expensive!)

But you've got a fairly rare 550 that's a lot of fun to blast around on! There are a lot of folks in the forum in PA - maybe someone local is willing to provide some on site encouragement in exchange for cold beverages.

The gas leak is probably coming from a stuck float valve in one of the carbs - maybe that carb is the one feeding the cyclinder who's exhaust pipe isn't getting hot (because there's nothing to burn in there.) When you know which cylinder isn't firing, check that plug for signs for fuel fouling. No fuel, no bang, no heat. If it's not fuel, next item to check is spark - no spark, no bang, no heat. That could be wires, coils or the plug. But the gas leak seems to indicate a need for a carb cleaning. Doing it yourself is mostly labor and maybe a gasket or two. Having the shop do it is about $250 in PA ($400 in Boston area.)

Time and patience, a good manual, and lots of friends in a friendly, helpful forum. Hang tough, you're almost there!!

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Scott has nailed it about hangin' in there. Chip away at it and address one issue at a time until you have solved the problem, yes it may take some time and a few beers but it can be done. Good luck with it, cheers.

[detorn]

Thanks!

thanks for the kind words, advice, and encouragement. I ordered the o-rings so I guess I'm going to take a swing at it now.

Here is my plan of attack as I wait for the rings.

Wednesday I will put the new plugs in and fire it up one last time. I'm pretty sure the current plugs are fouled, so I want to see if this gets the other cylinder firing.

Once that is done I will drain the oil and gasoline. Take off the carbs and get them ready for cleaning.

While the bike is disassembled I will take a run at doing the cluster repair as well.

Question: Is it possible to buy the horn button for the left hand control? Everything else works on it, there is just no button there for the horn.

[gs scott]

Question: Is it possible to buy the horn button for the left hand control? Everything else works on it, there is just no button there for the horn.

I have an 82 1000, and one day, many moons ago (maybe 86), I was out for a ride and stopped at a buddy's softball game. Watched the game, etc. I went to leave and - no starter button (without a kick start..) I looked down and there it was on the ground so I picked it up, placed it in the hole, pressed the button, and she fired up and brought me home (with the button in my pocket.)

After getting home, I called the dealer (before the internet days) and he had a replacement button.

Today, paging through the internet, I didn't see those parts listed under the 82 550, but they are still there listed under the 1000.

Horn - 37311 - 49000
Starter - 37312 - 49000

I'm willing to bet the horn button above will fit your 550. If it doesn't, I"ll buy it from you and pay double shipping to get it to my house!

[Big T]

You've got all winter to get it sorted out, so be patient

1. Don't forget to adjust the valve clearances before troubleshooting engine issues
2. Running on 3 and dying out are classic symptoms of clogged carbs - remember, you're cleaning them,putting on new O rings, then adjusting the float height and setting the mixture screw - don't get confused by folks calling this a "rebuild"
3. Yep, it'll seem like a money pit, but once you solve a few issues, it will provide you with years of service

[detorn]

You've got all winter to get it sorted out, so be patient

1. Don't forget to adjust the valve clearances before troubleshooting engine issues
2. Running on 3 and dying out are classic symptoms of clogged carbs - remember, you're cleaning them,putting on new O rings, then adjusting the float height and setting the mixture screw - don't get confused by folks calling this a "rebuild"
3. Yep, it'll seem like a money pit, but once you solve a few issues, it will provide you with years of service

1. I don't know what that means, but I'll look it up.

2. What exactly is the difference between a cleaning and a rebuild? I've seen two different type of instruction sets, one when you leave everything attached and on the bar and just spray it, one where it is completely separated and dipped. Is that the difference? So do I not need to buy the dip? Seemed like a waste since I'm only going to use it once anyway.

While I was outside today I pulled one of the plugs just to check it out. I think we can call this fouled, you tell me


I returned the first set of tires I ordered today at a cost of $40. Thats the exact kind of mistake I can no longer make. Will be running all future orders through here before I buy. The new front should arrive today, the rear is still "on order."

total investment so far: $1,190.65