Also disconnect the battery and harness grounds to the R/R, make sure the ground clamp for the welder is close to the welding location and see if a solid weld can be made. If it is too rusted it will probably just burn through and you would be SOL.
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Cracked cross member on frame
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Looks like you would need to remove the exhaust and probably gas tank and oil and lay the bike over. Clean the area with a flap wheel and then dremel to get into the nooks.
Also disconnect the battery and harness grounds to the R/R, make sure the ground clamp for the welder is close to the welding location and see if a solid weld can be made. If it is too rusted it will probably just burn through and you would be SOL.
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Schweisshund
Originally posted by posplayr View PostLooks like you would need to remove the exhaust and probably gas tank and oil and lay the bike over. Clean the area with a flap wheel and then dremel to get into the nooks.
Also disconnect the battery and harness grounds to the R/R, make sure the ground clamp for the welder is close to the welding location and see if a solid weld can be made. If it is too rusted it will probably just burn through and you would be SOL.
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Originally posted by Schweisshund View PostOk, thanks for the tips. If it doesn't work, I will start the long process of stripping down the bike and transferring it to another frame. (groans)
I has something similar: I had compelery striped my frame sandblasted and repainted and was going reassembly during a complete GSXR conversion including Bandit Swing arm. As I was remounting the rear shocks the mounting bolt broke off due to a poorly re-welded repair from a former PO.
I was close to apoplectic, but in the end, I shielded the bike and keep the welding clamp directly on the bolt and using my trusty $100 HF welder a new one was welded without damaging the paint too much.
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Schweisshund
Originally posted by posplayr View PostI has something similar: I had compelery striped my frame sandblasted and repainted and was going reassembly during a complete GSXR conversion including Bandit Swing arm. As I was remounting the rear shocks the mounting bolt broke off due to a poorly re-welded repair from a former PO.
I was close to apoplectic, but in the end, I shielded the bike and keep the welding clamp directly on the bolt and using my trusty $100 HF welder a new one was welded without damaging the paint too much.
it also appears it can be done without removing anything, but using a lot of shields. Some places will be a tight fit.
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Schweisshund
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Sounds like a plan. Some of these might help. Good luck with it.
'84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg
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Schweisshund
Alright .... Just got done talking to the owner ( he's a biker too ) and he is going to fix it for me Tuesday for $20- $30
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Schweisshund
Originally posted by Sandy View PostSounds like a plan. Some of these might help. Good luck with it.
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/catalo...esult/?q=slugs
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Originally posted by Schweisshund View Postthe owner of the muffler shop saw the picture and said it isn't a huge problem if it's rusted through. He said he has thick steel he could tack weld it into place (??)
Make sure you remove the grounds from the frame and battery so he doesn't fry your ignitor R/R or other electronics you have on board.
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Not sure I wouldn't just replace the whole tube there. Take off the exhaust, trim out that tube and weld in a new one. It can be beefed up some if you go that direction by inserting a smaller tube inside the new one and weld them together then reattaching to the rest of the frame. I would be bit leary if the PO owner can fix it for that kind of money and it be right.Last edited by mrbill5491; 04-16-2015, 01:35 PM.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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Schweisshund
Originally posted by mrbill5491 View PostNot sure I wouldn't just replace the whole tube there. Take off the exhaust, trim out that tube and weld in a new one. It can be beefed up some if you go that direction by inserting a smaller tube inside the new one and weld them together then reattaching to the rest of the frame. I would be bit leary if the PO owner can fix it for that kind of money and it be right.
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As it appears to me, the tube is bent. It would need to be straightened before being welded.
For $20~30 dollars, I doubt you will be getting much more than the crack being welded.
Originally posted by mrbill5491It can be beefed up some if you go that direction by inserting a smaller tube inside the new one and weld them together then reattaching to the rest of the frame. I would be bit leary if the PO owner can fix it for that kind of money and it be right.
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I'm not sure I would bet my life on that rusted tube. What you're seeing is only the visible outside damage. Until you remove the triple tree and see what going on you don't really know the extent of the damage. As Rustybronco said... It looks like the tube is not only rusted through but also fractured and bent. Might also indicate that other areas of the frame are out of alignment as well. I know it's hard to accept but, if it were me, I'd go ahead and swap frames.http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
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Schweisshund
Originally posted by wymple View PostDon't underestimate the abilities of a good welder. Just be sure he is one.
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