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    #16
    Originally posted by pyro254750 View Post
    is it possible to remove the secondary drive gears without splitting the case? i didnt know if the bearing retainer would allow both gears to be removed, or just the rear one.
    That I don't know. Never worked with a shaft drive...
    Someone who knows should be along...

    See if there is a factory manual at BassCliff's site: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
    Last edited by Baatfam; 05-01-2010, 09:49 AM.
    Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
    '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

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      #17
      he has an owners manual, but the service manual is for the e models which are all chain drive as far as i know.

      Originally posted by Baatfam View Post
      That I don't know. Never worked with a shaft drive...
      Someone who knows should be along...

      See if there is a factory manual at BassCliff's site: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by pyro254750 View Post
        well... I should probably come clean. I dont ride my bikes hard often, but, when i do, i ride them VERY hard. WOT shifts and all. It would not surprise me if it was the transmission, although, ive never toasted one before so i dont know.
        WOT shifts and redline operation will definitely loosen up your clutch hub. Ask me how I know. Check that nut, and while you're in there, go ahead and pull the hub off. Check the springs in the back, if you can spin any of them with your fingers, or if they rattle when you shake the hub, you're in need of a rebuild. With your driving style, I'd recommend a HD clutch hub rebuild, whether you need it or not. 'Cos you will, it's only a matter of time.

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          #19
          I plan on pulling it apart tonight to check. I would absolutely be thrilled if rebuilding the clutch hub is what cures this problem. In fact, id be thrilled if the solution is anything that doesnt involve removing the motor. Ive pulled one of these off the frame before, it was NOT fun.

          IF the hub is loose, could that cause some loud noises to transfer to the opposing side of the motor?


          Originally posted by Turtleface View Post
          WOT shifts and redline operation will definitely loosen up your clutch hub. Ask me how I know. Check that nut, and while you're in there, go ahead and pull the hub off. Check the springs in the back, if you can spin any of them with your fingers, or if they rattle when you shake the hub, you're in need of a rebuild. With your driving style, I'd recommend a HD clutch hub rebuild, whether you need it or not. 'Cos you will, it's only a matter of time.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Turtleface View Post
            WOT shifts and redline operation will definitely loosen up your clutch hub. Ask me how I know. Check that nut, and while you're in there, go ahead and pull the hub off. Check the springs in the back, if you can spin any of them with your fingers, or if they rattle when you shake the hub, you're in need of a rebuild. With your driving style, I'd recommend a HD clutch hub rebuild, whether you need it or not. 'Cos you will, it's only a matter of time.
            btw, what is the 1$ throttle mod you have listed in your signature? im all about mods that are 1$

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              #21
              Originally posted by pyro254750 View Post
              is it possible to remove the secondary drive gears without splitting the case? i didnt know if the bearing retainer would allow both gears to be removed, or just the rear one.
              Yes it is possible to remove both the drive and driven assemblies w/o engine removal. they are similar to the way you set up a rear axle, bearing pre-load, back lash and tooth contact patterns.
              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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                #22
                excellent, ill inspect as much as i can with the time ive got to work on it tonight and post back with the results and go from there.

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                  #23
                  Ok, new info:

                  I came home and decided to immediately check the driveshaft bolt that is so common for breaking, and it was broken. I removed what components were necessary to remove the shaft and boot, and then proceeded to remove the driven gear housing (what a bitch, you have to pull 3 motor mounts to get the damn thing off). The driven gear shows some wear, but is still useable. The drive gear on the other hand, is completely wasted, several missing and jagged teeth. Here is where im stuck. I removed the side cover and drained the secondary drive fluid. There is a square plate right above the drain plug with 4 bolts holding it on which certainly appears to be the access panel to the drive gear, however, i can only get it out about 1/2 an inch and then it stops. ive pryed pretty hard and im afraid if i pull any harder it will bust. Any ideas?

                  Also, now that i have found the problem, where do I go from here. I can clean it out without splitting the case as long as i can get the drive gear out, so as far as i can tell i need new drive and driven gears, side cover gasket, rear housing o-ring, driveshaft center bolt, some grease for the wheel bearings and swingarm bearings (which were all in excellent shape btw), and alot of elbow grease. The problem here is im short on cash and im having a hard time stomaching 260 bucks for the gears from bike bandit. Now, i have a shaft drive gs1000 engine that appears to be identical in design and size to the 1100. Will the gears from this motor swap to mine?

                  Thanks in advance guys, ive made far more progress thanks to the help in this forum than i would have on my own.

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                    #24
                    I don't have an 1100 shop manual, but my 850 manual says drain lube, remove the four bolts then remove the drive gear assembly. is there possibly a broken tooth that may have wedged behind the gear, not allowing the assembly to be removed? the round disk in the center of the assembly is a cover. remove it and try turning the gear.
                    you'll find the 850 shop manual here> http://www.mtsac.edu/%7Ecliff/storag...nual_HiRes.pdf
                    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
                      I don't have an 1100 shop manual, but my 850 manual says drain lube, remove the four bolts then remove the drive gear assembly. is there possibly a broken tooth that may have wedged behind the gear, not allowing the assembly to be removed? the round disk in the center of the assembly is a cover. remove it and try turning the gear.
                      you'll find the 850 shop manual here> http://www.mtsac.edu/%7Ecliff/storag...nual_HiRes.pdf
                      it appears that its SUPPOSED to come out like that, it just didnt want to. Im very busy right now as im planning for a wedding, however, im gonna TRY to get back out in the garage and get the gear out tomorrow. the round disc in the center is almost rubbery and didnt want to come out, but if its supposed to, then maybe ill just pry/scrape it out so that i can see whats behind it.

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