Changing the Clutch Springs on my 1982 GS850

[legaleli]

Micrometer results

All friction plates are between 1.93 and 1.94 mm thick.

Fiber plates:
1 2.75 (innermost)
2 2.75
3 2.76
4 2.77
5 2.80
6 2.81
7 2.81
8 2.81 (outermost)

Should I order new stuff?

ALSO... there may be a problem with the basket... I will post pics tomorrow concerning that...

[littleroot]

Thanks for putting this up - I need to do this soon, too!

[legaleli]

basket weaving....

Picture #1 - The basket appears, on the sides near the posts, to be worn thinner than the rest of the basket wall - though it is next to each and every post... is this normal?



Picture #2 - When I discovered this I felt like an investigator for the Airline Transportation Agency discovering a crucial element... the inside of the basket is smooth and uniform. But within the green circle you will see that the surface looks "crackly"... and it FEELS that way too... it's like there is an issue with the metal - and it is in one place... thoughts?



Finally... the thicknesses of the plates described in my previous posts... how are they? ** note** I just noticed in the high res manual on BikeCliff's site that these limits are fine.

[rustybronco]

the hub and basket are fine and the "crackly" surface is not a flaw in the hub.

are the steels blued or warped? if not, check the torque on the nut, install the new springs, waste a gasket, slap it back together and see if it slips.

[legaleli]

the hub and basket are fine and the "crackly" surface is not a flaw in the hub.

are the steels blued or warped? if not, check the torque on the nut, install the new springs, waste a gasket, slap it back together and see if it slips.

The steels are perfect / no warps or discoloration. I am a little worried about getting the fiber rings in the right way when I reassemble the plates into the basket... I understand that there is a "right side in".

When it comes to the nut - I guess that's the big one in the middle of the basket with the locking tab... what do you suggest should be the torque pressure?

[rustybronco]

Clutch hub nut.... 36-50.5 ft lbs.

I've heard people say the shiny side of the friction tabs go's in first. the shop manual doesn't indicate any such designation and I doubt it matters.

[legaleli]

They're here!

Parcel just arrived:

Now on to installation of my new springs (after I torque the main nut in the basket).

Pictures and report tomorrow!

[WesV]

If you still have slippage problems, you can install some 10% stiffer EBC springs. Many people stagger them 3 stock and 3 EBC springs but I put in all 6 EBC in my '81 850 and I absolutely love them.

Here is a link with the part numbers and such http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ht=ebc+springs

[Steve]

If you still have slippage problems, you can install some 10% stiffer EBC springs. Many people stagger them 3 stock and 3 EBC springs but I put in all 6 EBC in my '81 850 and I absolutely love them.

Here is a link with the part numbers and such http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ht=ebc+springs

Just so you are aware, even though the increase is "only" 10%, it makes a big difference in clutch lever feel. If you have a lot of stop-and-go driving in your commute or row your way through the gearbox regularly on your weekend rides in the twisties, your left hand is going to get REAL tired.

Unless you have built up your engine beyond the usual pods and header, the stock clutch components will work just fine. The biggest clutch killer has been TIME. Sitting in a compressed state for almost 30 years will take some of the length and tension out of the springs. Simply installing new springs will remedy that quite nicely.

.

[legaleli]

Just so you are aware, even though the increase is "only" 10%, it makes a big difference in clutch lever feel. If you have a lot of stop-and-go driving in your commute or row your way through the gearbox regularly on your weekend rides in the twisties, your left hand is going to get REAL tired.

Unless you have built up your engine beyond the usual pods and header, the stock clutch components will work just fine. The biggest clutch killer has been TIME. Sitting in a compressed state for almost 30 years will take some of the length and tension out of the springs. Simply installing new springs will remedy that quite nicely.

.

...which is a very good thing because I am running out of time before our riding season begins - which lasts about 6 weeks. I think that the clutch, and the rear brake, will be the last of my troubles THIS year (fingers crossed).

When our season ends I am really going get to the task of rebuilding my bike - this season is about the joy of the ride. Next year my girl will be looking, and behaving, a lot better!

[legaleli]

Holy cow!!!!

OK... why didn't someone tell me WHY my GS850G's clutch slipped at 6000rpm?! The power comes on at 6K like something else... it was truly surprising when I barred the throttle.

The bike came back together like a top and I have some good pics I will post regarding the assembly. No leaks (yet), and the clutch does not slip at all. There's so much power from 6 to 10K that I'm surprised it's a 30 year old bike.

The clutch pull is a little harder, and it shifts harder, and it's a little harder to find neutral - though that may correct itself with time.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

[rustybronco]

Glad to see you ran it up there! cool ain't it...

woe to those who never get the chance to see what an '850 is capable of doing.

[mike_of_bbg]

Just so you are aware, even though the increase is "only" 10%, it makes a big difference in clutch lever feel. If you have a lot of stop-and-go driving in your commute or row your way through the gearbox regularly on your weekend rides in the twisties, your left hand is going to get REAL tired.

Unless you have built up your engine beyond the usual pods and header, the stock clutch components will work just fine. The biggest clutch killer has been TIME. Sitting in a compressed state for almost 30 years will take some of the length and tension out of the springs. Simply installing new springs will remedy that quite nicely.

.

+1. I bought EBC springs for my clutch and wished I had not. None of my biking friends could stand the amount of force required to pull the clutch lever. OEM springs are still available and cheap.

BTW, that's +10% stiffer, but I believe it's also considerable pre-load as the springs are longer than stock as well. The extra effort required at the lever is more like +200%.

Good job getting her back together there, Mr. Legaleli. Told ya it wasn't bad

[chef1366]

Shoot, I run with Barnett HD springs. All six of them. The staggered thing didn't work.

[legaleli]

Bring on the riding weather!

All the pics are now up at http://www.bakerlawoffice.ca/clutch/. Unfortunately the pics of me cleaning the gasket area, and putting the gasket and clutch cover back on didn't make it.

The most interesting part of the reassembly was:

Using a punch to get access to the lock washer to flatten it:


Using a combination of the rear wheel on the ground and my back brake and the following position to "lock" the basket so I could torque it:


Using a wrecking bar to lock the washer to the nut:




Starting all springs with my hand to ensure no cross-threading:


Rustybronco... it's unreal! I definitely have the "GS bug".