Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Clutch basket - what does it all mean Basil?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Clutch basket - what does it all mean Basil?

    OK... I've got new springs, new friction plates and new steels. I also managed to buy the Shell Rotella oil that Rustybronco suggested.

    I popped off the clutch cover last night and took out all the plates including the last steel that is behind the "piano wire" clip. I was performing a visual inspection because my clutch has a noise in it and I figured that I would shake a few parts and spin a few parts and have a good look.

    I have three inquiries:

    In the picture below I have what I call the "outer basket" marked as #2. The large gear behind is #1.

    Query #1 There is some "play" in the outer basket and the gear when I try to wiggle them. They move in and out together as if on a bearing, and they move about 1/2 a millimeter in and out (together) - it is noticeable. There is also some lateral play in them - that is I can not only pull them in and out a little bit, but one side will move in while the other moves out a small amount as well (they move on at least 2 axes).

    Query #2 #1 gear appears to be connected to the motor through a series of gears. If I grab a hold of outer basket #2 with my hands and attempt to turn it, it WILL turn slightly and independent of gear #1 - but only 5 degrees or maybe less - that is, it seems as if #1 and #2 are not connected - it this normal

    Query#3 What should I do?


    #2
    For one thing, it's not automatically necessary to change all the clutch drive/driven plates - measuring them first could save you a bunch of money. Most common reason for clutch slipage is worn springs which are quite cheap.

    Regarding the play you are experiencing, the number one problem with these GS clutches is the large nut in the center tends to come loose. Please check that first. Second, the spring cushion mechanism between the outer basket and the large gear develops slop. If you remove that large nut and remove the basket you will see what I'm referring to. You can repair this yourself by shimming the springs but some members around here till tell you to rebuild the clutch hub with a heavy duty backing plate and springs. Check this link for more details... http://www.theflyingbanana.com/clutchhub.htm I did the spring shimming on one hub and it's worked fine and was cheap. Also, buying a HD hub nut is recommended - either an 1150 nut or one from a place like APE.
    Last edited by Nessism; 06-01-2010, 09:01 AM.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      For one thing, it's not automatically necessary to change all the clutch drive/driven plates - measuring them first could save you a bunch of money. Most common reason for clutch slipage is worn springs which are quite cheap.

      Regarding the play you are experiencing, the number one problem with these GS clutches is the large nut in the center tends to come loose. Please check that first. Second, the spring cushion mechanism between the outer basket and the large gear develops slop. If you remove that large nut and remove the basket you will see what I'm referring to. You can repair this yourself by shimming the springs but some members around here till tell you to rebuild the clutch hub with a heavy duty backing plate and springs. Check this link for more details... http://www.theflyingbanana.com/clutchhub.htm I did the spring shimming on one hub and it's worked fine and was cheap. Also, buying a HD hub nut is recommended - either an 1150 nut or one from a place like APE.
      Nessism - again I owe you a debt of gratitude and then some! I will remove the large nut and have a look!

      Concerning the clutch plates - I tried replacing the springs and I roughed up the steels - but it still slipped - it might have been the oil... in any event now I have new ones and they definitely have WAY more fiber than the old ones. I got new steels just to be sure... only another $50 bucks.

      I don't know why - but I really enjoy working on this bike. It's calming.

      Comment


        #4
        Interesting guts...

        Took it all apart last night. I see how the whole thing comes together - and the manuals on Bikecliff's site are indispensable for getting the job done right. The bearings seemed fine, and the "play" or tolerances between the basket and the post should not be a problem.

        The springs on the back of the basket were loose in their housing - but that is probably the result of 30 years of their existence. I don't know if I should look for another basket, or look to get mine refurbished... but either way - it's a question for my winter tear down.

        The best thing about this, other than having a clutch that will (hopefully) work well for the season (I'll find out tonight when I put oil back in and give her s test ride), is that I have seen the entire inside of my clutch housing and the gears and bearings right back to the crankcase and everything looks good - gears are all in good condition, and everything is torqued to spec - not if I hear any noises from the clutch... I know it's just the character of the bike... or something not mechanically critical to address THIS riding season!

        Comment


          #5
          Eli, stop worrying. she'll take all the abuse you can throw at it.
          you've already changed the rear spline correct?
          De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
            Eli, stop worrying. she'll take all the abuse you can throw at it.
            you've already changed the rear spline correct?
            JHillier and I inspected the rear spline and it was perfect. We traced that issue to the bevel gear shaft - and that has been corrected!

            I'm beginning to understand how well these bikes are engineered both in how they work, and how easy it is to work on them!

            Maybe my "worrying" is subconsciously all about trying to find new ways to take my bike apart! I REALLY am enjoying the whole maintenance thing. Tonight, however, I'm going to enjoy breaking in my new clutch!

            Comment


              #7
              Speed Merchant
              http://www.gszone.biz

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Big Jay View Post
                Whoa! That's for this winter's project! Very heavy duty... very NiCe!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Big Jay View Post
                  Note the 3 welds? Thats what the guys that I knew did to their clutches. The big GS's back in '78 '79 would wear from hard launching....The rivets holding the gear to the basket would loosen and result in "chatter" when the engine was at idle. Welding them up tightened everything back up.

                  QUOTE - ***Query #2 #1 gear appears to be connected to the motor through a series of gears. If I grab a hold of outer basket #2 with my hands and attempt to turn it, it WILL turn slightly and independent of gear #1 - but only 5 degrees or maybe less - that is, it seems as if #1 and #2 are not connected - it this normal***

                  You mention "rotational" slop of some amount. There should be NO play between basket #2 and gear #1 See my note above about the welds.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Rick65Cat View Post
                    Note the 3 welds? Thats what the guys that I knew did to their clutches. The big GS's back in '78 '79 would wear from hard launching....The rivets holding the gear to the basket would loosen and result in "chatter" when the engine was at idle. Welding them up tightened everything back up.

                    QUOTE - ***Query #2 #1 gear appears to be connected to the motor through a series of gears. If I grab a hold of outer basket #2 with my hands and attempt to turn it, it WILL turn slightly and independent of gear #1 - but only 5 degrees or maybe less - that is, it seems as if #1 and #2 are not connected - it this normal***

                    You mention "rotational" slop of some amount. There should be NO play between basket #2 and gear #1 See my note above about the welds.
                    It looks like my clutch is coming apart one more time!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Rick65Cat View Post
                      Note the 3 welds? Thats what the guys that I knew did to their clutches. The big GS's back in '78 '79 would wear from hard launching....The rivets holding the gear to the basket would loosen and result in "chatter" when the engine was at idle. Welding them up tightened everything back up.

                      QUOTE - ***Query #2 #1 gear appears to be connected to the motor through a series of gears. If I grab a hold of outer basket #2 with my hands and attempt to turn it, it WILL turn slightly and independent of gear #1 - but only 5 degrees or maybe less - that is, it seems as if #1 and #2 are not connected - it this normal***

                      You mention "rotational" slop of some amount. There should be NO play between basket #2 and gear #1 See my note above about the welds.
                      QUESTION: What do the green springs do in the back of that mechanism?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by legaleli View Post
                        QUESTION: What do the green springs do in the back of that mechanism?
                        The ones mounted sideways? I always wondered that myself. Can someone chime in and give an explanation in simple terms?
                        Are they for dampening some kind of harmonic disturbance in the force?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Who's Basil???
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                            Who's Basil???
                            "Whoop-tee-doo, what does it all mean, Basil?" from an Austin Powers movie...

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Rick65Cat View Post
                              The ones mounted sideways? I always wondered that myself. Can someone chime in and give an explanation in simple terms?
                              Are they for dampening some kind of harmonic disturbance in the force?
                              Yes, they are for dampening. They help to dissipate the shock of release

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X