Transmission/Drivetrain issues....

[bluedawgie]

Greetings Fellow GS'ers,
I finally got my 1982 GS 1100 GK up and running that my Dad gave me. I plan on keeping this bike in our family for as long as possible. I really like it. Eventuall, I want to do a complete resto on it. It's basically in fairly good condition, less the usual evidence of wear and tear from useage. I didn't realize the GS series bikes had such a loyal following until I found this site. Thank God for you all! Looking forward to some educational and enjoyable conversations with the good folks on here.
Currently, I have a transmission/drivetrain issue. I will give a description as best I can, and was wondering if anyone has any diagnostic suggestions. I want to learn as much about the bike as I can, so I can do my own repairs, if possible.
I was travelling along a city street at approximately 35mph, when I noticed a sound coming from somewhere underneath. It was like a sporadic"tinking"noise. When I came to a stop at an intersection, the noise disappeared.
I revved the motor to see if it would reappear, and it didn't. I proceeded on through the intersection and the noise reappeared again. I got about a quarter of a mile,(reaching about 35mph again in 3rd gear) and that's when my rear wheel locked up causing me to fishtail a little. I tried to push it off the road, but couldn't, so I revved the motor and released the clutch while in first gear, and eventually got it far enough off the road to be safe. It was as if there were a tremendous drag when I tried to move it the approximate 6 feet to a safer location. My first thought was that the clutch has seized up. I am a member of AMA, so I called and had it brought back home. I noticed my oil was low, drained it to see the amount, and was a little under 3 qts. (Specs. call for 3.4 qts.) I have about 2-3 inches of play back and forth at the rear wheel. The gear indicator says I'm in neutral, but I can't seem to move the gear selector successfully either up or down, even with the clutch lever pulled. I think we put the bike in neutral while it was still warm to get it off the rollback transport truck. Fortunately, I was only a few miles from home.
I have resources to several really good mechanic shops near and not so near, but I wanted to see if I could tackle this with some help. I am fairly mechanically inclined. I do a lot of work on my own cars, so I am not totally new to engines. Transmissions almost no experience, except to take it to the shop for a rebuild. I do have a Clymers, Haynes and a service manual. I think if I could pinpoint the issue, I could fix it, maybe.
I realize taking it to the shop is possibly gonna run me in the neighborhood of approximately $1000-1500, mostly for labor. What I'd really like to do is work with someone who is experienced at this sort of thing, yet let me do the work. I want to learn. I don't feel I can do that just by taking it to a shop. My one mechanic says he has liability issues, which I understand. Any input at all that you're willing to give would be greatly appreciated.

[cowboyup3371]

Where are you located? (you might want to put that in your profile too)

[DanTheMan]

There are probably GS members near you willing to offer some help, but location is needed. Welcome aboard, by the way. It sounds kind of like a shift fork might have jammed up. Someone will chime in with more info though, to whom this has happened before, I'm sure.

[bluedawgie]

Location....

Thanks....yeah, I guess that would help also, wouldn't it?
I live in a 'burb on the SW side of Columbus, Ohio.

[Larry D]

Have you had the rear wheel off and inspected the rear spline ? Betcha it's toast.

[bluedawgie]

Haven't done that yet, Larry. I'm in the process of doing that now. I did check the fluid level for the driveshaft, and it was about half the recommended amounts.
I just got off the phone with my mechanic, and of course, it could be several things. It's almost impossible to really diagnose something like this over the phone. I understand that. I think we agreed the rear brake was probably not the problem. Said maybe a bearing had seized, but again, it was really hard to say without looking at it. I asked a former co-worker, who had been a Suzuki mechanic years and years ago about it. He said first, disengage the drivetrain from the transmission. This should narrow it down from the either/or question. What would be your reasoning to say it might be the rear spline? Have you had this happen to you?

[rustybronco]

It was shifting fine until the rear wheel locked up. you were able to get it to the side of the road. you got into neutral to get it home. the engine and trans in your bike is nigh on indestructible.

most likely the answer will lie in the rear spline or rear wheel bearing(s).

pull the wheel...

[bluedawgie]

Thanks again. I'm in the process of doing that now. Could be a while.
Got my service manual open, and following the steps as directed.
I'll keep you posted.

[rustybronco]

I was travelling along a city street at approximately 35mph, when I noticed a sound coming from somewhere underneath. It was like a sporadic"tinking"noise.

I have about 2-3 inches of play back and forth at the rear wheel.

2-3 inches of play means the brakes aren't locked up. the "tinking" makes me wonder if a bolt retaining the spline has backed out causing the rear wheel to lock-up. or, someone put a recalled rear spline on it and a nut backed off.

[Larry D]

The rear wheel spline is the weak link. I had to replace mine, although it wasn't from a riding incident. I pulled the spline when I first got the bike and it looked like this.....Remember you have to take the spline completely out of the wheel to inspect it. I'm sure the manual covers this though.




It should look like this........

[bluedawgie]

I did have the bike gone over by my mechanic to the tune of around $1600 to have it road worthy again. It had been sitting around here and there for about five years or so.
My mechanic did pull the rear wheel to replace the old tire. I have nothing bad to say about my mechanic, I think he's really good. Glad I found him.
Very personable, and has about 35 years experience.
For what it's worth....this is some of the stuff I had done to it to get it back into roadworthy condition, that I can remember without checking my receipt.
1. Headlight bulb replaced
2. Tach cable replaced
3. Carbs cleaned and tuned
4. New stator
5. New voltage regulator
6. Oil and filter changed
7. Brake and turn signals working
8. New rear tire
9. Front and rear brake pads replaced
10. New brake fluid
11. New seals in front forks
12. Wiring repaired....looked a mess when I got it from Dad, who let a shadetree auto mechanic take a stab it...trying to figure out why it wouldn't hold a charge
13. New battery
14. Gear selection indicator working again
Parts came to about $500 and the balance was tax and labor. Shop rate is about $71/hr.
You may be right, Rusty....a more accurate desription of that sound would be like a small screw being bounced around in a metal pipe. If what you're saying is correct, it sounds like it could be a fairly easier fix, as compared to getting into the transmission, which would involve removing the engine, and splitting the case. Let's hope and pray that's all it is.
Incidentally, I saw another one just like mine in some cycle ads. Pondering the idea of riding one while fixing the other. To me, this is even more frustrating.....I truly love to ride, and my impatience may get the best of me. Just went out recently and bought a nice brown vintage style leather jacket to go with my bike. Now I'm all dressed out and no bike to ride.

[Larry D]

I would've done it for you for $1200.......*cough, cough*

[bluedawgie]

Thanks, Larry. That gives me something to go off of as a reference.
Great looking photos. What kind of camera and lens did you use for those close-up shots? I suppose I should do this also to assist me and others who might need this sort of information later. Good to keep records of my resto. project for future reference.

[bluedawgie]

Larry, I see you're from Indianapolis. When I get my baby up and running again, would you mind if I rode over your way for a cup 'o' java. I'll buy.
My best friend lives in Marion, and I was threatening to ride over and visit him, (along with a pummeling for not calling me for years)and if you don't mind we could get in a few miles together. Just a thought.
Hopefully, it'll be before the snow flies...lol.

[Nessism]

Rear DRIVEN splines stripping out (the ones in the wheel) are VERY common with GK's, but it rarely causes the rear wheel to lock up. The rear wheel needs to be removed to check the condition, and special grease is needed on the splines (best stuff is Honda Moly 60 grease). One other possibility is damage to the secondary reduction gears. The output flange nut comes loose and then the shaft breaks off. This is more rare but not unheard of on the 1100cc shaft drive bikes. Last possibility is the clutch hub nut coming loose.

I'd check the rear wheel first and then the secondary gears second. I strongly recommend you learn to work on your own bike. $1600 is just a drop in the bucket of what the bike will cost you in the long run if you continue to pay a shop to work on your 28 year old motorcycle.

Good luck.