Final drive broken!

[pete]

Yeah that's the guy.

Apparently he's some sort of guru with heads and stuff, but with his customer service skills I'll never find out.

If you need head work done, I can only recommend you go to Northside Cylinder Head Specialists, they were all friendly and helpful and I thought the price was great too.

The older guy there on a Saturday morning took me in and showed me around while he faced my valves too.

I was happy enough with the facing that I took my cylinders back and got them honed there also.

Pity they don't do motorcyle wrecking though...

[john82q]

If only it were that easy

take your seals and bearings along to CBC

If only it were that easy, well it almost was, went to 3 different bearing supply places and got the same story the two needle bearings are a odd size and made of unobtainium and simply not made any more.

Wound up however I did buy all the other seals and bearings at a fraction of the cost at suzuki. Now suprizingly Suzuki did have the needle rollers in stock so I brought them, only to find the inners are not included and deemed to be part of the gears. Grrrr! back down the bearing shop sorted...

This is costing more than a wrecker, but then the drive will be as good as new, and not already have 100,000 k on it. worth it cause it works harder with the overloaded sidecar...


so tonight i fired up my lathe.



facing off the broken stub

drilled the hole, actually quite soft in the middle, the blue burn is not from drilling heat its from when it broke, the splines still seem hard an are not worn or distorted.


heres a question;
I think this drive got real hot at some stage as the chrome on the casing has peeled in a couple of places. Any tips on;
- how to strip the remainer?
-what to refinish it with?

was thinking wire brush and clear coat, any ideas?

Cya John

[john82q]

opinons sought

for some reason the nose of the crown wheel has corroded. water in the seal i guess. Theres a ring of piting where the oils seal runs, there deep enough to feel with the finger nail, and wont polish out with emery cloth.
( well not with out reducing the size,it is case hardened too>

best of the bad photography below,

I have a new seal, but I dont want it to chew out early.
Any ideas how to repair cheaply?

john

[rustybronco]

You need something like this... http://www.kutzendoerfer.at/files/speedisleeve.pdf

or, you could try using some sort of metallic plastic (epoxy) to fill in the groove and polish smooth. or possibly that method used in conjunction with not seating the seal fully, allowing the seal to ride on a different portion of the surface.

[7981GS]

Yup, use a speedi-sleeve kit.
I have even used them on crankshafts. Far less expensive than replacement.
Or, first, you could try and replace the original single lip seal with a double lip seal that rides on both sides of the damaged area.
I have found that to be very effective and cheap!


Daniel

[850 Combat]

Hmm

I don't know if the DPO ever checked or changed the fluids on any of my G's, but I'm positive the lazy ass current oener hasn't touched any of them (or the part in the trans for that matter).

I suppose I should.

[john82q]

combat, bit more than suppose!

Im thinking the failure of my drive had entry of water as the root cause.

FD is vented, theres a breather at the top, built into the case, so if it was ever under water crossing a creek say, theres the potential for water to enter.
This water will find some where to sit and rust it will. only defense, regular fluid changes.

Sleeve kit on order, more waitin this jobs takin forever!

john

[pete]

I know how you feel John... my spark issue is taking, well, forever too.

Good thing you loaned me your scope though as at least I have some clue as to what's going on now!

[john82q]

tool

hi,
On page 4-33 of the service manual (on Bassclifs site,thanks) it seems the backlash of the fd is measurred with a backlash measuring tool...figures..
now for all intents its a hose clamp with an arm sticking out...

Has any got one/used one and can tell exactly how far out the arm the measurement is taken ?



any help?


john

[rustybronco]

John, I can't make sense of why they measure backlash on the pinion side. most backlash is measured at the ring gear. I guess it really doesn't matter which end you measure backlash.

my best guess as to the length of the arm? it would have to be the same height as the outer diameter of the pinion gear tooth contact surface at it's greatest diameter.

next question... what is 27~50?

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5525590037_0143b98118_z.jpg

I'd make the arm length the same as the outermost part of the teeth and place the dial indicator plunger slightly inboard of that point.

[ged]

Hey thanks for the offer John but Chuck Hahn in the States is chasing up a

replacement pumpkin for me. Looks like he has split the final drive to

reduce weight and send 2 parcels instead of 1. Alot cheaper. Any way after

seeing the pictures Chuck sent me of the split final drive I thought I would

have a look in mine. Which also had the shaft sheared off likes yours. I

found damage on the gears so it would not be worth repairing like you have

done. There are heaps of drives on ebay but I wanted to look for one off

this site. I will post pics once I learn how to attach.

Regards