Solution for Final Drive Wear

[Guest]

In another thread (http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=172973) I posted some pics of my totally worn out Driven Gear in my back wheel on a shaft drive bike. Ed (Nessism) kindly helped me out with a new OEM Driven Spline for the back wheel.

Anyway the plot thickens, because now I have come across wear in the final drive housing itself in the Driving Gear which mates with the gear in the rear wheel.

I am open to suggestions as to how bad this wear is, if it can be repaired or what other options I have to repair this problem. And what would happen to my new OEM driven gear if I were to replace the rear wheel and ride it in this condition?








.

[Hammered]

Depending on what the material of the gear is, you could have a machine shop weld and remachine to specs. Or close enough for the new mating gear. IF you do go this route, may I suggest paying someone to spec out both pieces for later dates. Having the data for machining a total new gear wouldnt be a bag thing to have on a flask drive.

[rustybronco]

Don, unfortunately the wear to the driven gear is pretty significant. the only thing you can do is replace it. the driven gear is part of the ring and pinion and are a 'matched set' (lapped together). if it were me, I'd give a go at the mix and match method by finding just the driven gear to stuff in the housing.

yes I know things are difficult to obtain down under. if you could find someone in the states with a complete unit who is willing to rip one apart and send just the gears with bearings attached, plus the shims; shipping costs might not hurt you too much.

[Nessism]

That sucks Don.

I just checked and a 20 lbs package costs about $127 to ship to Australia.
I'll bet you can find a used final drive for less than $50 more (I had one and it took me a year to give the thing away).

Let me know if you want help going this route.

Ed

[bwringer]

Replace the final drive unit with another used one.

Your odds of getting one that's in better shape are excellent. Most of them aren't this worn -- that one was obviously run without any grease or moly paste for a long time.

Not sure why it would be hard to find one of these in Oz -- there are lots of them lying around in the US. I can think of a couple of people who have an extra. Any GS shaftie FD will do the job.

[49er]

Don, that ones pretty stuffed.

I have some spare 850 diffs, but not sure if they will fit your 650. Croc gave me one, so you can have it for the cost of the shipping if that will help you.

[bwringer]

What sort of GS is that on? You didn't say.

The 650 final drive is different -- the 850, 1000, and 1100 shafties all interchange, but the 650 is sui generis.

[Suzuki_Don]

What sort of GS is that on? You didn't say.

The 650 final drive is different -- the 850, 1000, and 1100 shafties all interchange, but the 650 is sui generis.

Brian between you and me and please DON'T tell anyone else on this site, it's a VX, Shhhhhhhhhh!!!

[Suzuki_Don]

Don, that ones pretty stuffed.

I have some spare 850 diffs, but not sure if they will fit your 650. Croc gave me one, so you can have it for the cost of the shipping if that will help you.

Ian, could you find out for me how much it would cost to have that diff transported to Sydney for me please?

Also could you tell me the measurement between the three bolt holes where the propeller shaft inters the diff?

Thanks

[john82q]

Don,

post on http://www.findapart.com.au you should get several offers, (i did)wont be $50 though, more like $100 to $150 delivered.

John

[Suzuki_Don]

Don,

post on http://www.findapart.com.au you should get several offers, (i did)wont be $50 though, more like $100 to $150 delivered.

John

Thanks John I will try that.

[49er]

Ian, could you find out for me how much it would cost to have that diff transported to Sydney for me please?

Also could you tell me the measurement between the three bolt holes where the propeller shaft inters the diff?

Thanks

Don, as the diff is mounted, the vertical studs centre to centre measurement is 79 mm. The centre to centre distance between the the other stud and each of the vertical ones is 69 mm. Hope that makes sense!

I see you may be able to source one locally. Let me know how that goes first. If too expensive I'll get a shipping cost from here to Sydney.

[Suzuki_Don]

Don,

post on http://www.findapart.com.au you should get several offers, (i did)wont be $50 though, more like $100 to $150 delivered.

John

John, I have had two offers so far, a Melbourne wrecker quoted me $450 for the diff and wheel spline and a Sydney wrecker (where I live) quoted $295 for the diff.

Thanks for the tip, this is a good avenue for parts. Have you ever had any success getting them to lower their prices?

I will hang out a bit longer and see what eventuates.

IAN: Thanks for the measurements. Things are looking good at getting a diff here in Oz, but I still need to check the condition of them both.

[john82q]

Don,

The website justs puts you in touch with the wreckers, (instead of ringing around) after that like any thing you can haggle, some are more receptive than others.

I was down to the $150 mark, but then i decided to rebuild mine instead.
which has cost approx $300 for new bearings and seals. The needle bearings inside are a odd size pretty much have to come from Suzuki, and that equels $$$

Im till working on mine too time consuming.

John

[Suzuki_Don]

Don,

The website justs puts you in touch with the wreckers, (instead of ringing around) after that like any thing you can haggle, some are more receptive than others.

I was down to the $150 mark, but then i decided to rebuild mine instead.
which has cost approx $300 for new bearings and seals. The needle bearings inside are a odd size pretty much have to come from Suzuki, and that equels $$$

Im till working on mine too time consuming.

John

John where was the diff for $150 and how long ago was it?

What bike do you have?