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GS1000ET, compression test, new gasket!?

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    GS1000ET, compression test, new gasket!?

    Hi folks,

    When I first stripped down my motor a couple of years ago I noted that the bike had the original Suzuki GS head gasket, with the black oil pathway seals fitted in the 4 outer mounting stud holes.
    The first time I rebuilt it I used a cheapo gasket, which later leaked oil, but before it failed the leak down and compression test results were very good/high.

    Since then I decided to go to Suzuki for the next head gasket and they said the originals were no longer available, but had been superseded by a 3 layer metal gasket affair. 11141-49410 GASKET Note: this part is superseded by 1114149410.

    After re-assy with the new gasket I did a leak down test which showed good results, but the compression test is now down in the 80-90 psi range.
    Have any of you folks fitted this newer style Suzuki gasket and found the same issue?
    What are your PSI readings for comp test?

    Cheers!

    #2
    Checked the valves recently? Made sure the camchain is on right?

    It surely can't be so much thicker it affects compression that much...

    Are you testing compression hot With throttle wide openin both cases? If 2nd test is cold and first hot that would explain it.
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the reply,

      The leak down test failed to show any issues with the valve's seal or any other leaking, no noises heard from carb, exhaust, oil filler or between cylinders.
      Although I don't remember if the original compression test was hot or cold, the latest one was done cold. It was done with throttle wide open. Do you think I coud get an extra 30 PSI just due to engine temp?

      Anyone else fitted this new layered metal type gasket to their GS?

      Cheers.
      Last edited by Guest; 05-10-2011, 04:02 AM. Reason: Change attachment

      Comment


        #4
        I don't know exactly how much compression will increase with a hot engine but I know it will. And those MLS head gaskets are good so no worry there.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          You might get a compression increase with a hot engine - you usually do but not always (no idea why / why not - just happens).

          And yes a thicker head gasket can knock quite a bit off your compression figures, even if it's only slightly thicker. In the same way, valve reseating can lower the numbers. The reason is that the combustion chamber is a pretty low volume (I did know the rough figures at some time for several bikes but I can't remember them now) and making that small volume only slightly bigger with a thicker gasket or with the valves slightly more recessed can make a big difference relative to the original.

          Having said that, 30psi does seem a lot to lose. Someone on here will know the combustion chamber volumes and be able to help you do the maths.
          79 GS1000S
          79 GS1000S (another one)
          80 GSX750
          80 GS550
          80 CB650 cafe racer
          75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
          75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

          Comment


            #6
            If you have not had the motor machined then the compression should be stock with a stock gasket.
            Did you replace the rings?
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              Did you do a leakdown test with a real tester that shows precentage of leakage? If so, what was the leak number?
              Speed Merchant
              http://www.gszone.biz

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the answers.

                The barrels were honed and new rings fitted and valves re-ground in on the first rebuild.
                If these had been an issue the leak test should have showed it up.
                My leak tester does show percentage of leak but all I remember is the 4 quadrants of the gauge, red-very bad, orange-Bad, Yellow-poor and green-good to excellent.
                All cylinders were somewhere in the green range.
                I am almost certain that the new metal gaskets are thicker, but since the old one is long gone I can't be sure.

                All shims and valve timing are by the book, so I can only guess that If I want to get the numbers up I will have to have the head skimmed to compensate for the (Possibly) thicker gasket.

                What are your guess's as to the difference in running with 90PSI comp as opposed to 110-120PSI. Much??

                Cheers

                Comment


                  #9
                  The gasket is NOT the reason for the low compression; I very seriously doubt the thickness difference of the two OE gaskets, as installed and torqued on the engine, is significantly different from each other. If the engine work was performed properly last time you shouldn't have anything to worry about. Ride the crap out of the bike for a few hundred miles and then recheck the compression, this time with a hot engine and throttle wide open, and then judge. Needless to say the valves need should always be checked after a rebuild, and make sure you retorque the cylinder head a couple of different times within the first several hundred miles to make sure everything is snug.
                  Last edited by Nessism; 05-12-2011, 09:08 AM.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                    Ride the crap out of the bike for a few hundred miles and then recheck the compression, this time with a hot engine and throttle wide open, and then judge.
                    +1, ride it hard!
                    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                    Life is too short to ride an L.

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