Any ideas on what I can check on this? I know that the valve clearance has not been checked in a long time. I am hoping that I am not looking at a bad piston or head.
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jdion81
No compression on one cylinder
Hi, Im sort of new to the forum, I have been reading non stop for some time now as I have been trying to find what I want to do with my 81 GS850. I recently took it to the local bike shop because it started intermittently missing on one cylinder and progressively got worse. It eventually would not fire on one cylinder and I assumed a carb issue. While sitting in the garage over winter I noticed a puddle of what looked like dark oil that would keep re-appear after each time I cleaned it up. I thought that I had a leaky gasket on the crankcase. I did an oil changed and pulled about 3 gallons of fluid from the crank. It appears the gas tank emptied into the crankcase. After the oil change she started up and ran on 3 cylinders and was then taken to the shop. The shop came back with 100% compression loss on one cylinder. They said $300 to come back with a full diagnosis and well over $1000 for a fix. That was mainly labor. So I am thinking that I can probably fix this with some support and guidance from the forum here.
Any ideas on what I can check on this? I know that the valve clearance has not been checked in a long time. I am hoping that I am not looking at a bad piston or head. -
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Lack of maintenance could have burned a valve. I'd check the valve clearances and clean the carbs. You might get lucky and the problem will go away.Ed
To measure is to know.
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jdion81
Once checking the clearances and carbs would it be a good idea to check the compression again? or try starting?
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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A proper compression test requires the engine to be up to operating temperature. Also, the compression will increase with mileage if the bike has sat for a long time. I'd get it running, flog it good and hard for a couple tank fulls, then check the compression if the bike still isn't running the way you want.Last edited by Nessism; 03-14-2012, 05:14 PM.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Originally posted by jdion81 View PostSo I am thinking that I can probably fix this with some support and guidance from the forum here.
Beg, borrow or buy a set of feeler gauges and get that cam cover off. Personally I don't think the compression is going to improve much with a 100% loss of compression in one cylinder.
I've a spare head in the garage...
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[QUOTE=jdion81;1602819]Hi, Im sort of new to the forum, I have been reading non stop for some time now as I have been trying to find what I want to do with my 81 GS850. /QUOTE]
So, did you read BassCliffs 10 common things?
Ed's Top Ten Newbie mistakes?
1A) (NEW) Trying to diagnose running problems on a bike with an unknown maintenance history. Common maintenance items like clean carbs, properly adjusted valves, no air leaks in the intake system (airbox, carb boots), a clean gas tank (no rust), and a properly functioning petcock are 100% mandatory for the bike to run properly.
If so, the valves would be adjusted and the carbs cleaned already
I'm just guessing here, but I'll bet it's cylinder #2 that's not firing. You know , the one that filled up with gas before it leaked into the crankcase.
New spark plugs, an oil change, a new petcock and another shot at compression are in order after the basics are done
But, tell me if it's #2 that's bad (or not)1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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jdion81
So, if they checked the compression by just cranking the engine while cold their results could be questionable? I think I may have a set of metric feeler gauges. I plan to get that cover off tonight and check the clearances.
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jdion81
[QUOTE=Big T;1602895]Originally posted by jdion81 View PostHi, Im sort of new to the forum, I have been reading non stop for some time now as I have been trying to find what I want to do with my 81 GS850. /QUOTE]
So, did you read BassCliffs 10 common things?
Ed's Top Ten Newbie mistakes?
1A) (NEW) Trying to diagnose running problems on a bike with an unknown maintenance history. Common maintenance items like clean carbs, properly adjusted valves, no air leaks in the intake system (airbox, carb boots), a clean gas tank (no rust), and a properly functioning petcock are 100% mandatory for the bike to run properly.
If so, the valves would be adjusted and the carbs cleaned already
I'm just guessing here, but I'll bet it's cylinder #2 that's not firing. You know , the one that filled up with gas before it leaked into the crankcase.
New spark plugs, an oil change, a new petcock and another shot at compression are in order after the basics are done
But, tell me if it's #2 that's bad (or not)
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jdion81
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Originally posted by jdion81 View PostIt was #2 and was tested without running the engine.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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mike_of_bbg
Well, there are only so many ways the pressure can escape the combustion chamber:
Piston damage
Leaks around the head (cracks, spark plug hole)
Leaks around the valves (hanging open, burnt/cracked/chipped valves or seats)
Failed head gasket
Cylinder wall damage
Do you have your own compression tester? If not, you can probably get one at a store near you for ~$20. I'll bet that, if you're willing to do the work yourself and have the tools, you could get it running on all 4 again for less than they want to charge you for diagnosis.
The easiest places to start are looking for piston damage down the spark plug hole, and checking those valves! You can also do a wet/dry compression test (dry first, then pour 1 tsp oil down the spark plug hole and re-test): if the compression goes way up it's likely rings or less likely cylinder wall damage. Cold compression numbers aren't great, but when a cylinder won't run to get warm there isn't much else to go on. Make sure when you run compression tests that you have a fully-charged battery and all spark plugs removed; just the tester in whichever cylinder you're working on. Battery fully charged so your motor will turn over as fast as possible.
Oh, yeah - always hold the throttle wide open for your compression tests!
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Originally posted by jdion81 View PostIt was #2 and was tested without running the engine.
Then, adjust your valves
And, order up a new petcock
Once you've got that covered, go out and ride it up and down the highway, lots of varying throttle, and see if some of that compression sneaks back into the cylinder1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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jdion81
I think my brother may have a compression tester. I am going to try find one before the weekend. I have the battery on the tender, hopefully it will be fully charged for the weekend. When I check the valves and I find that I need new shims, what is the best way to go about getting the ones needed? While I am at it would it be worthwhile to replace the lower head gaskets? I know I have a leak at the valve cover, but I am not 100% sure the others aren't leaking.
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