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Where did everyone go? Must be dinner time... I am no pro... but with scratches on the pistons, we know something rubbed there. The gunky stuff in the head does not look like fun either... I am going to see what the boys think...
Curt
Curt
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sigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang On -
The scratches are my crude numbering of the pistons.Originally posted by bellucci View Post
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Alright, I cleaned up the valves and then, per the manual, poured gasoline into each of the intake ports and exhaust ports to see if any leaked through the valves.
Everything was tight and there were no leaks. So, either I fixed the problem, or the problem is elsewhere.
As for the cylinders, should I just clean them up and leave them otherwise alone?Comment
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Well, looks like it's using oil in 1,2 and 4, # 3 looks fairly normal and I can't really tell but the valves look OK to me. All of that is pretty much academic now, you have it apart, clean it up real well, inspect, measure, replace or repair as necessary. New valve stem seals, new rings, new gaskets and seals, take care of any issues with the carburetors or intake system. Put it back together properly with the use of the forum and manual. Then you got yourself a scoot that will run like new, one righteous ride.
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Yeah, that's kind of what I'm thinking. How do I get the pistons out? The manual calls for a special tool, but that tool seems to have been discontinued.Comment
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Wait, so, according to the manual the cylinder block (the part with the actual pistons) should just pop right off at this point, right? Mine won't budge. Am I reading this right?Comment
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Stuff a rag around the case opening, use a pick and screwdriver, cover it with your hand as it comes out so you can control it when it pops out. If your not careful the cir clip will launch itself in to the garage never land, then you gotta wonder where it went, I like to know exactly where they are.Comment
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A slight tap with a rubber mallet on either side(NOT ON THE FINS) and she'll come loose, just gotta break the seal of the base gasket.Comment
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When was the last time that thing was run?
If I was you I would bring the head to a engine machine shop along with a set of new valve seals and tell them to do a valve job. If the valve faces look that bad I couldn't imagine what the seats look like, IMO probably more than a valve grind could help.Comment
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It was my daily driver up until the end of October. The valves seem to be sealing fine now, and they seem to have cleaned up pretty nice. But I'm not sure what they're *supposed* to look like. As it is, I'm planning on replacing the valve stem seals while I have the head off, but you think it needs more?Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostLast edited by Guest; 04-11-2012, 12:33 AM.Comment
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It might seal ok with gas in the ports, but the valves need to be removed and inspected, the springs have to come off for seals anyway, and depending on what the seats look like, it might need a valve job other than valve grinding paste. If the faces of the valves looked that bad, the underside and seats cant look to good.Originally posted by Karstan View Post
How many miles are on it?Comment
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Exact mileage is unknown due to a broken odometer, but it's probably in excess of 50,000 km/31,000 miles (what it reads on the broken odo).Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostComment
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No special tool.....just more money! To get the "pistons out" just pull up the cylinder block. Once you do that you will need new rings and a base gasket. Careful doing it though. Often they are stuck on there pretty good and you may be tempted to jam a screwdriver (or something similar) in between the block and the case to try and pry it loose. That technique often leads to gouged parts and/or broken fins on your block. Instead I like to use a putty/spackling knife and work my way around to loosen it up. Takes longer but the results are damage free.Originally posted by Karstan View Post
To get the pistons off the rods you may need a "piston pin puller". You can improvise one for cheap. All you need is a full threaded bolt or threaded rod that is approx 2 1/2 to 3 times the width of the piston and will fit inside of the piston pin. A washer and nut that is about the width of the pin and will fit inside of the pin boss on the piston. And a large socket and washer that are larger than the pin and which the pin can slide inside of. Remove the circlips (stuff the crankcase full of rags in case you drop the circlip), slide the bolt through the socket, washer and pin, attach the washer and nut and tighten the bolt. As you tighten the bolt, it will slowly draw the pin out and into the inside of the large socket and release the piston from the rod.Comment
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New rings, bottle brush hone the cylinders (assuming no deep marks), lap valves, new valve stem seals, and OEM gaskets. Most aftermarket gasket kits are inferior, some significantly so. Athena for example (the kits with green gaskets) make some really crappy base gaskets that are sure to leak. Big red flag on that.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-ResurrectionComment
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Thanks for the advice everyone! Especially you, OldSkool. The details you provide are super helpful!
So I'm about to order all the parts I'm going to need and want to make sure I get everything.
1) Cylinder base gasket
2) valve guides x16 (nobody's mentioned these, but the manual says to replace them if you're going to remove them. What do you guys think?)
3) valve guide oil seals x 16
4) valve guide rings x 16
5) piston ring sets x 4
6) Head gasket (sigh, THAT'S an expensive gasket)
Edit: I just added it all up and I'm looking at about $450! Gah!Last edited by Guest; 04-11-2012, 11:54 AM.Comment
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