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Rotor puller needed
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I posted a few links in the build thread.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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- 15152
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
The bolt size used to retain the rotor is a 12mm X 1.25 pitch. Let me think about this a minute... What else is 12mm x 1.25? Well that would be a 12mm spark plug! and I just happen to have a spare one at home that I can cut and thread into the hole.
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Originally posted by rustybronco View PostThe bolt size used to retain the rotor is a 12mm X 1.25 pitch. Let me think about this a minute... What else is 12mm x 1.25? Well that would be a 12mm spark plug! and I just happen to have a spare one at home that I can cut and thread into the hole.1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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Originally posted by tom203 View PostYeah, but will you be able to get it out after the deed is done?? How about a short 3/8 " hex head bolt to nest inside that 12 mm thread? unlikely to damage threads.
Crude diagram I created for my 850G -- I think the threads in the rotor are 16mm on the 1000, not the 14mm mentioned in the image, but the principle is the same:
The manual does mention using a slide hammer which does not work. At all. You can't believe a lot of what you read in the manuals.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
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Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
Thanks for the effort to make up the Diagram Brian.
I decided to cut the end of a 12mm spark plug just below the hex and remove the ground electrode. That way I can thread it in the end of the crank and give the swing arm bolt a bit more to rest against when I crank down on it. I feel a bit more secure doing it this way than hoping I get enough 'purchase' on the end of the crank by just sticking something else in the end of it and praying it doesn't damage the threads.
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Suzuki_Don
The official Suzuki tool for this job is a slide hammer as illustrated in the special tools section of the GS1000 Factory Manual. By the sounds of it the taper has had Loctite applied to it. Mine was the same and it took a lot of encouragement to be removed, but the slide hammer did the job.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
In retrospect, I believe mine to be the same way as yours was. Unfortunately I was a bit hesitant to warm it up to remove the rotor and decided to try the inverted 1/4" extension idea someone else had used with success.
You should see the little apparatus I just made up. It's the bottom half of a 12mm spark with a round headed cap screw bonded to the center of the hole with structural adhesive.
It's very professional looking if I do say so myself.
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So is the rotot actually off yet???MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by rustybronco View PostIn retrospect, I believe mine to be the same way as yours was. Unfortunately I was a bit hesitant to warm it up to remove the rotor and decided to try the inverted 1/4" extension idea someone else had used with success.
You should see the little apparatus I just made up. It's the bottom half of a 12mm spark with a round headed cap screw bonded to the center of the hole with structural adhesive.
It's very professional looking if I do say so myself.
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I would be careful with heat at the rotor...heat tends to ruin magnets and may release the adhesive holding them in. And why in gods name didnt you just bring the crank with you to work...thats what work is for. Working on your stuff while everyone else tends to the parts bins!!!!! Tell John I say hello...HA HA.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
I wanted to remove the rotor so I could stand the engine on end to finish draining the oil from it. Years ago I would have tiped it up, removed the drain plug and held it over the drain pan, now I have to work within my backs limitations.
Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostI would be careful with heat at the rotor..
I'll say Hi to John for you.
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