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No neutral !!
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Hacked850
No neutral !!
I have a 1982 850G,22,000 miles and in very good running condition.After it reaches normal temp it will not go into neutral!!.When I'm down shifting I can sometimes ( maybe 1 out of 20 times )hit neutral but from 1st it will not go.If I'm stopped I have to turn it off before I can get it into neutral.When it's cold it will go into neutral just fine.I have adjusted the clutch cable at the lever and at the arm,replaced the cable and it didn't help.It shifts up and down fine and the clutch isn't slipping,ANY help would be great..Tags: None
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I believe you need to check 19 and 21 here..they engage and fallinto a dentent in the shifter drum so you can find neutral..you just gliding over it no matter how gently you try...right???
MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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7981GS
Try adjusting the clutch at the arm again.
When I first got my '81 GS1100EX basket case, it did the same things until I adjusted the arm tight.
Eric
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Hacked850
This just started this weekend,up till now I had no problem finding neutral.And yes no matter how gentle OR hard I try it just doesn't go.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35586
- Torrance, CA
You might want to try tightening the cable more, until there is just a slight amount of lever freeplay. If that doesn't work, you might need new clutch discs. The steel plates must be flat (spec in the manual), and the fibers as well. I had a hard time getting neutral with my 1000, and the problem was fixed by replacing the fibers and a few steel plates that didn't check dead flat.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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If none of the above change the oil with the right 10/40.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Also a worn clutch basket can cause this, as in if there are grooves worn into the basket from the clutch disc's , more so if
someone put a Barrnett or other aftermarket clutch into it with thin steel plate which have a tendency to wear the basket.1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
83 gs750ed- first new purchase
85 EX500- vintage track weapon
1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
“Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing
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Hacked850
UPDATE...
When the bike is cold and for the first 15 minutes or so the bike shifts like butter,up and down and neutral is no problem.AFTER it warms up it upshifts OK,down shifts are OK till you get down to 2nd and 1st then it gets harder.When it's hot if you roll to a stop in 2nd it's REAL hard to get it in to neutral and if you get it into 1st while stopped there is NO WAY to get it into neutral OR any gear other than 1st without shutting it off first.I have adjusted the cable at the lever and at the arm,I have put on a new cable and changed the oil.And also if you roll to a stop in 1st gear after it is hot it will act like the clutch is not pulled in all the way and kinda chug a few times.I think it needs a complete new clutch with springs but I don't want to spend the $$ if thats not the problem.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35586
- Torrance, CA
My old 550T was that way; when it got warm it shifted bad and seemed to drag the clutch. I never figured out why and then sold it.
I still say pull out the clutch and check flatness of all the plates. No need to change them until you verify they are bad first.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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BassCliff
Hi,
What kind of oil are you using? When was the last time you changed it?
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Jul 2005
- 15152
- Marysville, Michigan
I think Ed is right on the money. If it were me I'd pull the clutches and measure their flatness.
I have almost the same problem with my new to me 80 850G. It is hard to find neutral when the engine warms up. Although I'm a bit lucky, I have a spare clutch assembly lying in wait until I get the time to tear into it.
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Crankthat
You say that sometimes you can get into neutral from 2nd?
Whats your tach read at idel after warmed up in neutral?
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spyug
I have the same issue with my 550 that I'm prepping for its cert. I spoke to my pro wrench about it the other day and echoes what the guys are saying. First check the cable and adjust (if necessary) first at the transmission end then at the lever. If that doesn't help then check the disks for flatness and proper thickness. To check for flat lay them on a piece of glass (since glass is "true").
If all of that checks out it could be a weak detent plunger spring. There is an on going discussion in the archives about that I believe.
Anyway adjust the cable first.
cheers,
spyug
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Hacked850
So after all the normal adjustments and a new cable the problem was still there.So today after a ride and on one of the hottest days of the year here I decided to look into it some more.I pulled the cable off from the clutch arm on the engine and took off the arm and moved it 1 spline out and reinstalled the cable.I went for another ride and got the bike hot and the tranny shifted perfect !!,I could find neutral pretty easy from 2nd OR 1st.BUT now the lever is REALLY hard to pull and I can't get much free play..I'm thinking about just leaving it alone because it's shifting good now and getting a stepped lever like I use to run on my dirt bikes back in the day.Oh ya and to answer the oil question,I run Honda ( H4 ) 10-40 in all my bikes.
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