Please help me understand and select chain and sprockets

[mrbill5491]

Both my bikes have 630 chains, one has the riveted master link and the other has the clip type. I haven't had any problems with either, and that includes all the bikes I've had in the past. Just make sure you get that clip on good and with the open end pointing in the right direction.

Yup that is the ticket.

[salty_monk]

Paint the clip with bright paint (white) so you can easily see if it's missing & add a smear of silicone.

I use riveted & the same tool as Nardy above. To use the HF chain breaker you'd probably need to put something with a domed surface one side & a flat the other between the pin & the plunger. (You could easily make one out of a bolt or a piece of rod - I could sketch it if you like).

A lot of people use a punch with a rounded end & a hammer, striking onto a metal plate or the side of another large hammer.

[littleroot]

Got chain tool

Last night I ended up in Cycle Gear shop just to get some chain cleaner and lube and ended up coming home with THIS CHAIN TOOL because it was 60% off. They said I could return it if I didn't end up using it. Should I use it? I sent a note back to Mike at Z1 letting him know I got this so we can change the order to the rivet type of chain. My rear sprocket is on backorder so we have some time.

I took a photo of the tool still in the shrink wrap just in case the link breaks eventually. They had it for $34 only through January 2nd apparently but because they left the sign up the sales rep honored the price!



So what do you think?

[Joe Nardy]

Last night I ended up in Cycle Gear shop just to get some chain cleaner and lube and ended up coming home with THIS CHAIN TOOL because it was 60% off. They said I could return it if I didn't end up using it. Should I use it? I sent a note back to Mike at Z1 letting him know I got this so we can change the order to the rivet type of chain. My rear sprocket is on backorder so we have some time.

So what do you think?

I have seen this chain tool at Cycle gear and it appears identical to the Motion Pro tool except the case is red instead of blue. I was going to link to it in my previous post but saw it was listed at $89.99. I thought I had seen it for much less at the store or in sales emails. So you got it for around $36? If so, that's a good deal. Be sure to read and understand the directions before using. It can be a bit confusing the first time you use it. Be careful and don't over torque the tool, the threads can strip pretty easily. Also, it is helpful to have a caliper available when pressing the master link plate on and flaring the rivets. I measure the distance between plates and then slowly press the master link plate to the same distance. There is also a spec for how much to flare the rivets. Too much flare and you can crack the rivet and bind the chain, too little and it might pop off. I just did an RK chain on my XR600 and their website had info regarding the flare.

It sounds like a lot of info but is simple once you figure it out.

Thanks,
Joe

[littleroot]

I have seen this chain tool at Cycle gear and it appears identical to the Motion Pro tool except the case is red instead of blue. I was going to link to it in my previous post but saw it was listed at $89.99. I thought I had seen it for much less at the store or in sales emails. So you got it for around $36? If so, that's a good deal. Be sure to read and understand the directions before using. It can be a bit confusing the first time you use it. Be careful and don't over torque the tool, the threads can strip pretty easily. Also, it is helpful to have a caliper available when pressing the master link plate on and flaring the rivets. I measure the distance between plates and then slowly press the master link plate to the same distance. There is also a spec for how much to flare the rivets. Too much flare and you can crack the rivet and bind the chain, too little and it might pop off. I just did an RK chain on my XR600 and their website had info regarding the flare.

It sounds like a lot of info but is simple once you figure it out.

Thanks,
Joe

Great advice, thanks Joe! Yes it was I think $34 before tax.

[littleroot]

Paint the clip with bright paint (white) so you can easily see if it's missing & add a smear of silicone.

I use riveted & the same tool as Nardy above. To use the HF chain breaker you'd probably need to put something with a domed surface one side & a flat the other between the pin & the plunger. (You could easily make one out of a bolt or a piece of rod - I could sketch it if you like).

A lot of people use a punch with a rounded end & a hammer, striking onto a metal plate or the side of another large hammer.

Dumb question: I need to break the chain to get it off the bike, right? I remember the guy at the shop said he just uses a pneumatic cutting tool and I've been wanting to get one Harbor Freight?

[littleroot]

Harbor FreIght cutting tool LINK HERE for $10

[tkent02]

Any type of grinder will work.

Is your old chain/sprockets worn out?

[Joe Nardy]

Dumb question: I need to break the chain to get it off the bike, right? I remember the guy at the shop said he just uses a pneumatic cutting tool and I've been wanting to get one Harbor Freight?

Yes, you can cut through the side plates of one link to remove the chain. But since you have the fancy tool all you need to do is grind the head from one pin and use the tool to push the pin out, 'breaking' the chain.

Thanks,
Joe

[littleroot]

Any tip of grinder will work.

Is your old chain/sprockets worn out?

I've been told by a couple people who looked at in real life that the chain is shot and I should replace the two sprockets, too. The chain is too loose, as well, I've been told as along the bottom return run I can pull it down with my finger about two inches.

Here is a picture of where I am on the adjuster on the swingarm. The labeled indicators are obvious but I'm not exactly sure what the indicator at the axle is telling me: could I have five more steps to go?

[littleroot]

Any type of grinder will work.

Is your old chain/sprockets worn out?

I need to by a grinder, hand tool, pneumatic, I suppose

[tkent02]

Those pictures mean nothing. Show us a pic of both sprockets, where the chain is not covering them. Are the teeth bent or hooked? Are the teeth all shaped the same?

And, pull the chain away from the sprocket at the point at the top of this picture. How far will it come away?

And, the two inches you can pull the chain down is normal, any less is too tight. The important part is that as you rotate the chain around the sprockets by turning the wheel, the two inches remains the same, not tight in one place and loose in another. The slack should be uniform, all the way around.

As you rotate the wheel, is the chain silent or does it snap and crackle as it goes around?

One more thing, are all of the O rings in the chain intact or are some of them missing?

[littleroot]

Those pictures mean nothing. Show us a pic of both sprockets, where the chain is not covering them. Are the teeth bent or hooked? Are the teeth all shaped the same?

And, pull the chain away from the sprocket at the point at the top of this picture. How far will it come away?

And, the two inches you can pull the chain down is normal, any less is too tight. The important part is that as you rotate the chain around the sprockets by turning the wheel, the two inches remains the same, not tight in one place and loose in another. The slack should be uniform, all the way around.

As you rotate the wheel, is the chain silent or does it snap and crackle as it goes around?

OK, good info. I will maybe shoot a video of me playing with it. The picture was meant to show where I was on the adjuster and get an answer to how I should interpret these. Mike from Z1 said because it has been converted to 530 already you don't always go by these indicators.

[littleroot]

OK, good info. I will maybe shoot a video of me playing with it. The picture was meant to show where I was on the adjuster and get an answer to how I should interpret these. Mike from Z1 said because it has been converted to 530 already you don't always go by these indicators.

And there is no hooking, not at all. I think the sprocket look good but everyone says replace them when I do the chain if I expect to get 15K or more life

[tkent02]

Those indicators mean nothing anyway.

True they should be replaced as a set, but if there is no hooking you probably don't need to replace anything.