something has gone horribly wrong piston hitting valve

[sedelen]

First I want to say THANK YOU to all who have helped me through this ordeal. Without guidance and ideas of what to try and look for I would've been lost. I found the culprit causing me to jump time! It was the half moon cam end cap that I lost and could never find! I'll post pics below but one more thing guys. What is the best gasket to get? I need cam chain tensioner, valve cover, oil pan, and the cover on the left side of the case is leaking also. I'm going to try to put it back in time and see if it holds compression or if I need to put new valves in it. I really don't wanna spend the $ if I don't have to as I would like to put some sportier cams in it since it has oversized pistons. and that is gonna take some saving up. Any suggestions on cams? Once again thanks alot guys!

At least you found your half moon. I was going to ask if you were missing any tools, nuts, bolts, screws, washers, etc, but I figured you would volunteer that information unless you didn't know about it. Even though you created allot of work for yourself by accident you may very well have saved the head (hope).

[rustybronco]

If you set everything correctly and the chain tensioner is working properly, is suspect something has fallen onto the crank gear allowing the chain to jump over the gear.

It's the only thing that made any sense...

[bhm]

The moon went horribly wrong.
Nice story!

[bellucci]

Well, it looks like this story might have a happy ending.Glad to hear that. On the gasket subject, I just got a real gasket valve cover gasket made out of silicone. Not cheap, but it looks like it will be reusuable many times. Most people suggest using factory made gaskets. The valve cover gasket I got was $27.00 plus shipping. They come out of Tenessee.
Curt

[chuck hahn]

Some say they have had little sucess with Real Gaskets as far as them NOT leaking. Seems that if you torque the bolts to spec, the silicone squishes and can tear..thus they leak.

Some have suggested the cure for this is to use semi permanent loctite and just barely snug the bolts. I am not so sure I like this idea. Another member here that I am friends with had one and never got it to stop leaking. Went to OEM suzuki gasket and not a drop.

[chuck hahn]

This should be a lesson to everyone...soon as that cover comes off, stick some rags down along the chain tunnel on each side to prevent things from falling in.

[sedelen]

This should be a lesson to everyone...soon as that cover comes off, stick some rags down along the chain tunnel on each side to prevent things from falling in.

Yeah, you got that right. Should you find something missing, it could save you allot of grief not worrying that what is missing might've found it's way down the tunnel.

[chuck hahn]

Keeps gasket material as you clean the head out of the sump as well.

[earlfor]

This should be a lesson to everyone...soon as that cover comes off, stick some rags down along the chain tunnel on each side to prevent things from falling in.

Amen to that one! One of mine is never let a part go unaccounted for when going into an engine.

[chuck hahn]

Seeing that the rubber cam seals have a metal core, IF he had noticed it, a simple wand magnet would have fetched it out.

[m.qualls89]

Yes I should have found it instead of chalking it up to oh I droped it and must have kicked it. Looks like I now have bent valves on cylinders one and four. Any suggestions where to buy valves? I am thinking of having the head worked on but not sure how to tell if it needs it. As far as real gaskets it says in big red letters not to use if you have a tach drive in the valve cover. I found a NOS oem Suzuki on ebay for it . As far as head gasket I need to measure my cylinders and I'm probably gonna go with Wiseco. If you have a different opinion on that be my guest I'm all ears.

[chuck hahn]

Have you experience with cutting seats and lapping valves? If so and you know someone with a set of Neway cutters then just do them yourself.

There are many sources for aftermarket valves that are of excellent quality and will cost you less than OEM from the stealerships. Just do some homework and ask around for options like you doing.

Find the base Suzki prices and use that as comparison. May as well throw in all new stem seals too..done for the next 20 years or so.

[earlfor]

Yes I should have found it instead of chalking it up to oh I droped it and must have kicked it. Looks like I now have bent valves on cylinders one and four. Any suggestions where to buy valves? I am thinking of having the head worked on but not sure how to tell if it needs it. As far as real gaskets it says in big red letters not to use if you have a tach drive in the valve cover. I found a NOS oem Suzuki on ebay for it . As far as head gasket I need to measure my cylinders and I'm probably gonna go with Wiseco. If you have a different opinion on that be my guest I'm all ears.

Normally, when replacing a head gasket, it is prudent to also replace the base gasket. When an engine is that old and the gaskets are likely original, I would say it is mandatory to replace both the head gasket and the base gasket. Base gaskets are not THAT expensive and if you don't replace it, it is a pretty safe bet you will find out that you should have.

[m.qualls89]

I'm a machinist by trade but without proper tools I would rather pay to have it done. As far as the base gasket I know it was replaced in 2002 but that does seem a little old now. And I wasplanning on stem seals.

[chuck hahn]

Send NESSISM ( Ed Ness) a PM and ask him for his referal as far as having the head reconditioned. You will of course need the new valves..and be prepared for the guy cutting them to inform you that there are other worn or otherwise damaged valves to be replaced.