Gs 1000 head pitted??

[Guest]

I was lapping the valves tonight on my head just minding my own business in the peace and quiet of my shed. I noticed that my head as a divot in it between the number 3 and number 4 cylinders. So I looked the head over for signs of it leaking by from the combustion chamber there is no signs. I checked the gasket and the grease on the gasket had been squished into the pitted area from the last time it was removed. Do I need to get this filled in and the head resurfaced?

[Rockgs1000]

my compression before I tore it down but after I warmed the motor up and did the steps to do the test to include take all plugs out and open throttle fully I got the following readings 1-105lbs, 2-95lbs, 3-87lbs, 4-95 lbs.

[rustybronco]

Two choices as I see it. Clean and prep the area then fill it with something like JB weld, or have the head re-surfaced. If it were me, I'd spend the extra and have someone put it on a surface grinder.

[Rockgs1000]

I am worried that resurfacing the head won't take it all the way out it is a little deeper than I would venture to resurface to remove. I would worry about JBwelds in ablilty to expand and contract when the engine is heated up and cooled down and cause it to crack where the jb weld is located. I am going to call the machine shop about resurfacing and see what they recommend

[rustybronco]

I would worry about JBwelds in ablilty to expand and contract when the engine is heated up and cooled down and cause it to crack where the jb weld is located.

What do you mean by it?

[GSX1000E]

Find another head or have that one welded and milled. The '80-up heads accept the CV carbs too.

[Nessism]

That mark won't hurt anything, although if it were my head I'd have it skimmed to clean up the surface (but not remove that mark). The hole corresponds with a pocket in the cylinder, and maybe the gasket, which obviously held a corrosive material of some sort. The critical sealing surfaces on the head are around the cylinders, the oil passages studs, and the cam tunnel area. Corrosion in other areas of the head is not important. My machinist refused to cut my 1000 head more than a light skim, even though there were some corrosion marks left behind. Said they won't hurt anything.

[bwringer]

That mark won't hurt anything, although if it were my head I'd have it skimmed to clean up the surface (but not remove that mark). The hole corresponds with a pocket in the cylinder, and maybe the gasket, which obviously held a corrosive material of some sort. The critical sealing surfaces on the head are around the cylinders, the oil passages studs, and the cam tunnel area. Corrosion in other areas of the head is not important. My machinist refused to cut my 1000 head more than a light skim, even though there were some corrosion marks left behind. Said they won't hurt anything.

Exactly.

That mark is not in an area that affects sealing at all. It's completely irrelevant to anything.

[rustybronco]

No, but the pitting extends very close to the cylinder liner. That in my humble opinion, is needs to be dealt with.

[GregT]

No, but the pitting extends very close to the cylinder liner. That in my humble opinion, is needs to be dealt with.

Disagree....it's way outside the area the fire ring in the gasket seats on.

Put it together with a fresh gasket and ride it.

[hjfisk]

Light skim and put it together, the rest of what I see in the picture could use the light skimming, I wouldn't worry about removing it all

[Rockgs1000]

Thanks guys for the advice I am calling machine shop tomorrow to get me a resurfacing appointment . Now onto the crank what advice is there to rotating the crank with the timing chain loose? I am worried about getting it bound up as the crank is turned. Reason for turning is to bring number 2 and 3 piston up so I can clean the tops. Also taking the cylinders off and replace rings as well as hone cylinders.

[Nessism]

No worry about turning the crank. Just hold the chain up with your hand (you can turn the engine by pulling on the chain).

Smart move to pull the cylinder. A ball hone is best to deglaze used cylinders - 240 or 320 grit. As for gaskets, only use OEM gaskets otherwise you are risking leaks.

Good luck

[Rockgs1000]

Thanks never heard of ball hone but will look it up I bought OEM from boulevard as well as all gaskets and valve seals . Good to go thanks

[Rockgs1000]

Putting it back together the PO who last took it apart stripped the threads on one of the cam shaft cap bolts. What is the best way to repair this stripped hole? A helicoil? Or is there another method?