Clutch not letting me change gear!?

[Guest]

Ok weird one! I have just done some cosmetic work to my 850G, I drained the oil, removed the engine covers to get rid of the oxidization that looked real nasty...

So I removed the clutch cover first and got that out of the way...fully cleaned, new gaskets and filled her up with oil again and all went well (no leaks) I also wanted to replace the clutch cable so I went ahead and did that quick...

Now, with the bike on the center stand, I'm adjusting the cable to get the bite I like without the engine running...I turn the bike on and I pull the clutch in and it's not engaging...it's basically putting the bike in 1st with the back wheel spinning! Whilst I have the clutch leaver pulled in...did I put the cover on wrong or is this a cable issue? I must have adjusted the cable 30 times but it's still not engaging the clutch?

[hillsy]

Clutch plates might just be "stuck" a bit. Put the rear brake on while it's running.

If it still won't disengage, then you have a cable adjustment issue.

[eil]

Very common on bikes that have been sitting a while. If the cable is properly adjusted, the clutch will sort itself out the first time you try to ride it.

[Higgibaby]

Great, thank you

[Higgibaby]

Clutch plates might just be "stuck" a bit. Put the rear brake on while it's running.

If it still won't disengage, then you have a cable adjustment issue.

So the spindle that's connected to the clutch swingarm on the outside couldn't have been put back on wrong when I put the cover back on? Like I said I must have fiddled with that cable for an eternity...

[Higgibaby]

Short answer to your question is "could have been incorrectly installed."

Did you make sure that the rack release apparatus on the pressure plate is properly engaging the teeth on the rack release / arm assembly?

Was the clutch working correctly before you removed the cover for the surface refurbishment?

With machine on center sand, front brake applied (safety precaution if bike ever came forward off of stand) engine running, in gear, clutch lever pulled in, slowly apply rear brake....what happens?

Mmm, I think so...by any chance is a "G" engine clutch cover different to an "L"? I used an old L cover on this as I polished it, I'm starting to think it could be different

[rustybronco]

The clutch covers are the same.

[Higgibaby]

The clutch covers are the same.

Thanks, wasn't going mad then...

[Higgibaby]

Short answer to your question is "could have been incorrectly installed."

Did you make sure that the rack release apparatus on the pressure plate is properly engaging the teeth on the rack release / arm assembly?

Was the clutch working correctly before you removed the cover for the surface refurbishment?

With machine on center sand, front brake applied (safety precaution if bike ever came forward off of stand) engine running, in gear, clutch lever pulled in, slowly apply rear brake....what happens?

So I played around again, you mentioned installed correctly...I'm not sure that I have. The part just inside of the clutch were the teeth connect to the arm of the clutch cable seems loose. Is that meant to be loose? When I put the cover back on and test the motion it's just floppy...it has no give it's all loose play...

[JTGS850GL]

That may be normal. If you rotate the splined shaft, with the arm off, counter clockwise, does it seem to hit a stopping point or just keeps rotating around? If it does hit a stop, then that's normal and is where you need to be when putting the pull arm on the splined shaft. The arm should be about parallel with the engine. You adjust the clutch cable from there starting at the pivot arm and then at the clutch lever for final adjustment.

[Higgibaby]

The rack apparatus fits loosely in the pressure plate. That is normal. It is stabilized with the cover installed as you, I am sure, notice. But when you say it has no give it's all loose play, are you meaning there is little or no resistance when you pull in the clutch lever? If so, sounds the rack is not meshing with the teeth on the release arm.

Again, did the clutch release properly before you removed the cover?

I meshed the teeth up with the rack ok, but when it's all together the arm that the clutch cable fixes too is just loose...I can move it forward and back with no resistance like the rack inside the clutch is loose...hard to explain so I'll take a photo when I get home tonight and try to explain it a little better.

It was working fine before I took the cover off...I have obviously missed something I just can't seem to find what it is...

[Higgibaby]

That may be normal. If you rotate the splined shaft, with the arm off, counter clockwise, does it seem to hit a stopping point or just keeps rotating around? If it does hit a stop, then that's normal and is where you need to be when putting the pull arm on the splined shaft. The arm should be about parallel with the engine. You adjust the clutch cable from there starting at the pivot arm and then at the clutch lever for final adjustment.

The arm in the cover (spindle) just keeps rotating, there isn't a stopping point...it's when I put the cover back on, the teeth of the spindle mesh with the rack in the clutch but it's still real floppy in both directions, and it doesn't enable to suppress the clutch to change gear...it doesn't have a stopping point or bite to it? Driving me nuts...

[Higgibaby]

Here is a video with someone with the same prob as me! Any ideas?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeVFsSO7kYE

[blowerbike]

the guy in the video is lost....
the people making comments are also lost....
then the dumb a$$ leaves the key on...wonders why the bike won't start.


snowmobilejon50002 years ago

Take the side cover off and rotate the gear that is inside and then put it back together. 20 min fix. Questions, ask and I will send pictures of the haynes manual of how it is supposed to be installed.

if the clutch cover was never removed then the rack didn't disengage itself....
geeesh!

[Rob S.]

Looks like you're 180 degrees off. See the pic of my bike.