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top end rebuild of a 1978 GS1000
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Hi,
I had the engine idle at about 2500rpm.
Well, there is a locknut and a screw (see pic below). I loosen the locknut and at the same time turn the screw to adjust. Or am I wrong here?
Carb settings are
fuel screw: 7/8 turns out
air screw: 1 3/4 turns out
WP_20180302_15_17_17_Pro.jpg
(this is an old picture, carbs are spotless clean now )Last edited by superawesome; 10-30-2018, 03:56 AM.sigpic
1978 GS1000 EC
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Originally posted by superawesome View PostHi,
I had the engine idle at about 2500rpm.
Well, there is a locknut and a screw (see pic below). I loosen the locknut and at the same time turn the screw to adjust. Or am I wrong here?
Carb settings are
fuel screw: 7/8 turns out
air screw: 1 3/4 turns out
[ATTACH=CONFIG]56668[/ATTACH]
(this is an old picture, carbs are spotless clean now )1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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so that brings us back to the dilemma of why his vacuum is not higher than it is when synching....hmmm. When this has happened to me I remove the carbs and start over. Bench synch them, use a very thin, paper clip thickness, piece of wire to set them. You may have them set too high and compensating with your main idle?Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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I vacuum-synced with carbtune on Saturday, but still somehow had unstable idle. So got the colortune out of the box (my fav toy ) and discovered that #3 was not firing in idle. Had a spark but only fired when I pulled the throttle. Ran out of time, left it for the day, pursuing other tasks (You probably know that feel when you do your shopping, stand in the produce area, and your mind wanders off, it's all about air leaks, you're muttering "check the obvious first, check the obvious first, ...").
Also a friend said, whenever it acts weird, check for air leaks, so that's what I did (again). Finally found one.
My assumption was that it should be something between carbs and engine, as only #3 was affected, so I concentrated on that area. Brake cleaner had no effect so I check further backwards. Eventually I found that one of the big clamps between air filter and airbox was not tightened. I remember loosening it when I pushed the airbox onto the carbs, but must have forgotten to tighten it again. So there was my obvious leak!
I assumed that air leaks near the air filter can't have a big effect (other than the ones between carbs and engine), but I was proven wrong and take that as a lesson.
I did not have time for a test ride yet, but the idle was really smooth at the end of my (carb- and color-)tuning. She idled stable at 1300rpm, where before I could not get a stable idle below 1500rpm. Carbtune said vacuum's about 22 cmHg, but I am not worried since it sounds smooth now. And this is roughly what I had before.sigpic
1978 GS1000 EC
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Originally posted by azr View PostHow about a picture of your bike from the back showing the tank, I think you have that cool pin stripping down the tank.
Here's the tank while carb-syncing...
and on the bike
sigpic
1978 GS1000 EC
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