Clutch Release - Stuck - '78 GS750

[Guest]

I'm currently in a pickle. I have a 78 gs750 to which is mainly stock, however, I did just swap the bars out for some other MX bars I had laying around. When I swapped out the bars, I placed the controls back in place without removing any cables. When I went to test the steering to see if everything still worked as it should, I reset it to straight and pulled the clutch lever in to which the cable snapped.

I thought the cable was just old because it's a 78 and I've only had the bike for about 3 months. So my known history of the bike is minimal. I ordered a new cable and installed it. But the cable won't pull at all. I can't lift the clutch release lever by hand or by force. I can shift through all of the gears, find neutral and everything as it should normally work.

I've spent plenty of time trying to research this and search for a solution but I'm coming up short. I've been riding dirt bikes/ motorcycles since 3yrs and know my way around the mechanical side of them too.

Maybe someone can lend a bit of insight?

The clutch cable goes into the left side of the motor and is covered by a removable cap. The cable fits and pulls easy by hand when not attached to the release lever, but the release lever won't move the clutch rod.

Thanks in advance!

[Steve]

The first part of adjusting that clutch is to adjust the helix that the bottom of the cable attaches to. THEN install the cable and adjust it.

I don't have a 750, and that is one of the few jobs I have not had to do, so I am only relaying what others have mentioned.

.

[Noantsinmypants]

Hey there - Thanks for replying. I didn't mention it, but I have done that. I loosened the locking nut, adjusted the screw until it started to lift the lever and then backed it off 1/4 turn. I feel I should be able to lift the lever itself with/without a cable, is that a fair assumption? And I'm hesitant on using the clutch lever to pull it as that's how the previous one broke.

[hannibal]

The adjuster screw is too tight. The manual says to tighten until you feel "high resistance to turning" the screw, then back off 1/4 turn.

I've never tightened it so far as too move the lever.

[Steve]

The manual says to tighten until you feel "high resistance to turning" the screw, then back off 1/4 turn.

Yep, basically, you will use the screw to take out all the slack, then put 1/4 turn of slack back in. No lifting involved.

.

[Noantsinmypants]

Thanks so much for the extra replies. That makes more sense now. The new cable/lever actually pulled in once I felt brave enough to pull it. (I had feared it would snap the new cable and then be out of a bike until a new one came)

I'll make sure to adjust the tensioner and see if that makes it easier.

One other question - I didn't take a look at where the original clutch cable was routed, but with the new one I just routed it up between the first/second air filter pod, and then came up the right side of the frame tube and followed the throttle cables up and out. I'm currently out of town but will take pictures when I return.

Is there another cable from another GS that is about 2 inches shorter that would work? Same with the throttle? I'd like to get a new throttle assembly/tube but wasn't sure if just any push/pull assembly would work. Does it need to have a push/pull or will the pull only not be enough?

Thanks again for the help on this. I really appreciate it.

[Brendan W]

T
One other question - I didn't take a look at where the original clutch cable was routed, but with the new one I just routed it up between the first/second air filter pod, and then came up the right side of the frame tube and followed the throttle cables up and out. I'm currently out of town but will take pictures when I return.

Check the service manual on Basscliffs site. Throttle cables tend to run on the right of the frame high up on the spine. Clutch runs left side past the coil and under the front tank support

[Noantsinmypants]

Will do. Thanks!!