Two Part Paint Question +

[buttonhook]

Frankly, I would strip the Duplicolor and start over. It is far more work and trouble to try to make due with it than it is to remove it. Hell, all you will need is a wet rag and some mineral spirits and the stuff will wipe right off. LOL

Note:
Automotive finishes are alcohol based and EXTREMELY intolerant to oil, grease or any petroleum base products. Finger prints are too oily for the paint to tolerate, so make sure you are working with a CLEAN tank when you get ready to paint.

You can mix and match some primers, color coats and clear coats in sutomotive finishes, but it is not a good idea if you are not familiar with the various paint characteristics and compositions. You are best off to use the primer, color/base, catalyst, reducer, and clear coat specified by the manufacturer of the paint you choose. Picking incompatible components from different manufacturers can leave you with a big, expensive, mess.

Earl

I think I'm already there! what about on the plastics? what would I use to strip those?

[posplayr]

Stiksave

Have You seen this bike? http://www.ronh.org/suz1100e_83.htm

Stiksave

Yea,
I use that bike as a true OEM reference when I need one for appearance.

restorationdecals were supposed to ship all of my decals yesteray. I'l be looking for them in the mail...

I got some others from here but it ships from Malta.... Have not seen anything negative other than potential shipping delays.

http://www.xtreemedecals.com/default.tpl?cart=121290088338829098&id1=136&startat=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=136&--SECTIONSword=ww

Posplayr

[rustybronco]

Buttonhook,
The only other option that I know of is, IF you have an automotive paint store close by that can mix and put paint into a pressurized spray can, you could have them mix the clear with the catalyst, put it to the spray can and run like heck back home and shoot the clear on. it will depend on the "pot" life of the catalyzed mix.
Some things will have to happen first, the clear must be compatible with your "base", the base must be completely dry with no solvents being released and the base must be properly prepped and sanded.*** sorry earlfor, I didn't see your answer or was typing at the time posted.***
OR better yet have the proper base of a base/clear system mixed and put into a pressurized can and follow it up with mixed clear. it will be expensive.
it will be cheaper to clean the compressor and get a dryer.

what is the c.f.m. rating and tank size, what kind of paint gun do you have?
do you have enough air volume to run that gun?
those are also things to consider.

http://autobody101.com/

[earlfor]

Plastics frequently have the color as part of the plastic, think tinted plastic. If that is the case, there is nothing to strip off. All you need to do is sand it enough for the paint to have a little "tooth" to bite/adhere to. If your plastic is already painted, it can be a trial and error process. Different plastics are affected by different solvents as are paints. You could find yourself in the situation that any solvent that will remove the paint will also destroy the plastic. In that event, you are left with sanding the old paint off. That is probably the safest way anyhow, but also the most labor intensive.

Generally, plastics are unaffected by mineral spirits or alcohol. You do not want to use any kind of paint stripper or remover on plastic and acetone or lacquer thinner is probably also a no no. NO MEKP and NO Xylene.

Earl

I think I'm already there! what about on the plastics? what would I use to strip those?

[buttonhook]

Thanks guys,
I'm going to harbor freight this morning they have their refillable spray cans for less then $10.00 and dryer big enough for the cans for $3.00 so it looks like I'm sanding it down and respraying. I'm going to see first if they have a two part clear that is compatable if not I'm going to sand everything down and repaint with the good stuff. I can mix the stuff at home and fill the cans myself.

As far as the compressor/paint gun goes I bought them a few years ago to paint a boat, I dont remember what brand the gun is but the compressor was a 5 hp job and it was like 9-10cfm @ 90psi (I ran a grinder off of it)and they did a great job. But since then my father in law who lives next door "borrowed"(took) it and put it in his barn and he has not taken care of it like it should be. I drained it a month ago and it drained at least 3 gallons of water out of it.

[Nessism]

HF sells water seperators for air compressors, which along with a proper spray gun, will provide much better results than using a refillable spray container. Something to consider.

[Jethro]

There is an option with spray cans that answers the gas problem. Paint it in a flat color. That way you can touch it up all the time. My buddy Sean has painted his ZRX flat black, he can even bring a spray can with him!

[stiksave]

Trial and error with the rattle cans $, Refillable spray cans$, cost of automotive materials $. The cost of a water seperator from HF is minor compared to what your going to have invested in all of the other stuff. The compressor you have is good size, the spray gun should be fine. Grab a piece of wrinkled body panel from a body shop to test spray on.
I used a DA sander to strip all of my body components. Didn't want to use chemicals. Especialy the plastics, side covers & tailpiece. My shopping list is back in this thread, should give you an idea on your materials list.
Earl, the soap residue doesn't effect the paint after sanding? Sanding the decals? Holy $38.00 booboo Batman. Yikes. I've always just used straight water for sanding.

Stiksave

[earlfor]

Use liquid Joy, about 1 teaspoon in a gallon of water to clean any residue and dust off. You need the soap to lubricate the sandpaper and to carry away the residue. Then use a new block of soft foam or new soft sponge (no sandpaper) and a gallon of plain hot water to remove any soap residue. Then rinse with a hose and cold water and let air dry or use a hair dryer. At this stage, you cannot touch the surface with a bare hand. There is oil in your fingerprints, so plastic gloves are required for picking the piece up.

As for sanding decals, sand lightly using #1200 wrapped on a soft sponge.
All you want to do is sand enough to reduce the gloss on the decal. Think of sanding a leaf on a tree and touching the leaf only with the sandpaper as its hanging free. Lightly, I said. LOL


A cheap and effective water trap can be made with a 6' length of 4" diameter PVC pipe. Put a quick disconnect fitting midway up the pipe to connect your compressor to (input). Put another quick disconnect fitting at the top of the pipe to connect your spraygun to. Leave enough space on the top for a PVC endcap. Install a drain valve in another endcap to be glued on the bottom of the 4" pipe. Connect the trap as close to the spray gun as possible. Between the trap in the compressor tank and this additional one at the spray gun, you should have no more problems with water. Anytime you're going to paint, make it a habit to drain the compressor tank and the water trap of water before starting.


Earl

Trial and error with the rattle cans $, Refillable spray cans$, cost of automotive materials $. The cost of a water seperator from HF is minor compared to what your going to have invested in all of the other stuff. The compressor you have is good size, the spray gun should be fine. Grab a piece of wrinkled body panel from a body shop to test spray on.
I used a DA sander to strip all of my body components. Didn't want to use chemicals. Especialy the plastics, side covers & tailpiece. My shopping list is back in this thread, should give you an idea on your materials list.
Earl, the soap residue doesn't effect the paint after sanding? Sanding the decals? Holy $38.00 booboo Batman. Yikes. I've always just used straight water for sanding.

Stiksave

[earlfor]

Fix the compressor. No matter how much skill you have, a paint job is only as good as your tools and from a professional viewpoint, spray cans are the bottom of the barrel in performance. The worst compressor is better than the best spray can.

Earl

Thanks guys,
I'm going to harbor freight this morning they have their refillable spray cans for less then $10.00 and dryer big enough for the cans for $3.00 so it looks like I'm sanding it down and respraying. I'm going to see first if they have a two part clear that is compatable if not I'm going to sand everything down and repaint with the good stuff. I can mix the stuff at home and fill the cans myself.

As far as the compressor/paint gun goes I bought them a few years ago to paint a boat, I dont remember what brand the gun is but the compressor was a 5 hp job and it was like 9-10cfm @ 90psi (I ran a grinder off of it)and they did a great job. But since then my father in law who lives next door "borrowed"(took) it and put it in his barn and he has not taken care of it like it should be. I drained it a month ago and it drained at least 3 gallons of water out of it.

[TheCafeKid]

Apparently there is a company or two that IS making a two part paint in a rattle bomb. The can is seperated, paint on top, catalyst on the bottom, you smack the can on the ground or whatever, piercing the bottom container, then shake and spray. I dunno the name of the company, but someone on the DTT board was talking about it. Apparently it works quite well and is as impervious to gas as any two part auto paint/clear

[buttonhook]

I just got back with a new dry/filter setup for the compressor. I also did buy a couple of refillable spray cans (to try for less than $10 worth a try).

One question Acrylic Enamel is more durable right?? and I can spray it over the dry laquer? I know I can't put them on the other way around because it will wrinkle.

If it doesn't work on the test piece I'm out very little and I can alway use my own paint gun for the two part.

My paint guy was out today So I couldn't talk shop with him on the type/brand of paint I need. So I will try some clear Acrylic Enamel with a test piece.

Cafekid: can you find the web site for that stuff??

[buttonhook]

...I once was "forced" to clear coat a duplicolor coating with a gas proof automostive clear finish. The only way I found I could do it was to seal the Duplicolor with a water base acrylic lacquer (which does not react to Duplicolor, but is too soft to use as a finish coat), and then to coat that with the harder automotive multip part paint (which does not react to a water based barrier coat).......
Earl

One thing I was reading the cut sheet on the stuff I used and It seems to be a water based acrylic lacquer?? Could that be one reason it was so soft, I guess?? And if that is the case then I could just fix the spots rough up and repaint correct?

[earlfor]

You can spray single part (spray can) lacquer over dried, catalyzed automotive finishes, no problem, no reaction. An automotive finish (acrylic, urethane, etc) will soften and bubble, spray can lacquer. You can get around this problem by spraying half a dozen tack/mist coats of automotive acrylic with no single coat giving full coverage. The light coats will set quickly enough to form a seal on the lacquer and after about 6 hours, you can apply a normal coat of the acrylic. Catalyzed, automotive acrylic enamel is far more durable than any spray can enamel or lacquer, yes.

Earl


[quote=buttonhook;835055]I just got back with a new dry/filter setup for the compressor. I also did buy a couple of refillable spray cans (to try for less than $10 worth a try).

One question Acrylic Enamel is more durable right?? and I can spray it over the dry laquer? I know I can't put them on the other way around because it will wrinkle.

[earlfor]

Its correct that catalzed automotive paints do not react to water based coatings, either clear or color. You cannot make a spot repair without putting a sealer coat afterwards of waterbased acrylic on the whole part before spraying with automotive paint. You cannot break the surface in any manner such as sanding or "roughing up. The water base acrylic must be an unbroken layer on the part youre painting. Anything, even a pinhole in the coat will allow the auto paint to reach the layer underneath and it will bubble and ripple and you will be left with a non setting patch of semi hard goo for eternity.

Earl

One thing I was reading the cut sheet on the stuff I used and It seems to be a water based acrylic lacquer?? Could that be one reason it was so soft, I guess?? And if that is the case then I could just fix the spots rough up and repaint correct?