Two Part Paint Question +

[stiksave]

I'm glad you got the dryer for the compressor. I couldn't helpmyself. Put the pieces on the bike for a look see.

Thanks,
Stiksave

[buttonhook]

Its correct that catalzed automotive paints do not react to water based coatings, either clear or color. You cannot make a spot repair without putting a sealer coat afterwards of waterbased acrylic on the whole part before spraying with automotive paint. You cannot break the surface in any manner such as sanding or "roughing up. The water base acrylic must be an unbroken layer on the part youre painting. Anything, even a pinhole in the coat will allow the auto paint to reach the layer underneath and it will bubble and ripple and you will be left with a non setting patch of semi hard goo for eternity.

Earl

If I understand you correctly, I can/will have too respray the whole thing with the water based acrylic laquer base, let it dry, then spray with a good automotive clear. Or should I be ready to go with the clear while it is still ing the tacky stage?? I should be ok then correct??

Also I just painted a test piece, That I had painted at the same time as the bike, with the clear enamel and so far no wrinkles or lifting! But I will have to wait 7 days for the gas test.


BTW stiksave THAT IS RED!!! no mistaking as red but it looks good. I also did not mean to highjack your thread. sorry..

[earlfor]

Respraying the whole thing is the safest way to do it. If you spot spray a repair, you will have to feather the edges because you will have a rough paint halo on the perimeter of the sprayed repair and you cannot risk sanding it out. If will show up looking like glossy sandpaper if you try to paint over that kind of thing. You must seal the whole piece in an unbroken/unscratched layer of the water based acrylic. Do a coat front to back, then a coat right to left at 90 deg, then a third coat of the waterbased acrylic at a 45 deg angle to insure coverage. Then let it dry completely. I would give it 24 hours to dry. Do not sand or scuff anything.
If you do get a run, you can sand it out, but you will have to repeat the three coats of water base acrylic process and wait another 24 hours.
Then you can apply the automotive paint. Shoot thin coats. You want to minimize the amount of liquid/paint laying on top of the acrylic and have the shortest setting time. If there is a fault in the acrylic layer, this will minimize and probably inhibit any damaging reaction. After you have about three mist coats (using the front to back, right to left and 45 deg diagonal method of application) (These three coats are applied wet on tacky, which is about every three or four minutes.) Wait ten minutes and apply a full coverage coat of the automotive paint. Let dry 24 hours. Wet sand very lightly with #1200 and plain water. Sand just enough to reduce the shine, but not enough to make the paint appear flat/glossless. Recoat with the final finish coat. Let dry 24 hours before handling it.

Earl

If I understand you correctly, I can/will have too respray the whole thing with the water based acrylic laquer base, let it dry, then spray with a good automotive clear. Or should I be ready to go with the clear while it is still ing the tacky stage?? I should be ok then correct??

Also I just painted a test piece, That I had painted at the same time as the bike, with the clear enamel and so far no wrinkles or lifting! But I will have to wait 7 days for the gas test.


BTW stiksave THAT IS RED!!! no mistaking as red but it looks good. I also did not mean to highjack your thread. sorry..

[buttonhook]

sounds good I think I'm going to give it a try. if I mess up I'll just sand it down and start over from the begining.

Thanks alot. I may have more question later.

[stiksave]

ButtonHook, Good luck. Yes it's very RED. Besides the clear cracking on the old paint job,I got sick of the black. The Color is GM Victory Red. It's pretty close to the 83 stock red. It will get noticed on the road. Next thing. Should I repaint the Rifle fairing or leave it black, or just take it off. Don't worry about the thread, as long as it's not political.

Next question. I have a couple of tabs to repair. What adhesive, fiber glass, stuff do we use?

Thanks,
Stiksave

[rustybronco]

ButtonHook, Good luck. Yes it's very RED. Besides the clear cracking on the old paint job,I got sick of the black. The Color is GM Victory Red. It's pretty close to the 83 stock red. It will get noticed on the road. Next thing. Should I repaint the Rifle fairing or leave it black, or just take it off. Don't worry about the thread, as long as it's not political.

Next question. I have a couple of tabs to repair. What adhesive, fiber glass, stuff do we use?

Thanks,
Stiksave

Good choice of color Sticksave! I love red on the 83's
wish I could help with a product to use on the side cover. I can ask at the wifes shop if you don't get a reply.

[PAULYBOY]

yeah I do that, but it will always have some water in it and I dont have a dryer on the gun. so rather than buy the extra stuff I was hoping that there was a company that made a spray can with the right stuff in it.

like this stuff I think???
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spr...clearcoat.aspx

Dude, you can buy a decent yet inexpensive water separator at Harbor Freight for less than 20 bucks. They work well. Depending on the size of your tank and the layout of your compressor setup, I would get an inline separator and keep it nearer to the gun. Any clear that cures by evaporation in stead of chemical catalyzation will succumb to almost any petroleum based liquids.

[buttonhook]

Dude, you can buy a decent yet inexpensive water separator at Harbor Freight for less than 20 bucks. They work well. Depending on the size of your tank and the layout of your compressor setup, I would get an inline separator and keep it nearer to the gun. Any clear that cures by evaporation in stead of chemical catalyzation will succumb to almost any petroleum based liquids.

Yeah thanks, I took care of the dryer/filter this morning at HF. It wasn't much so I bought one. My gun is out in my building and I'm going to respray everything this week if the weather will helps me out.

I was mad because the paint job was prefect!! (except the paint itself) And I was trying to find the easiest way to fix it if I could have. HF is not all that near to me so I had to make a special trip (to save some money). And I was not sure about my compressor since it has been stored in a barn(with hay, dirt, and animals for a couple of years now).Thats the reason I didn't use it to begin with.

[dardoonk]

The Color is GM Victory Red. It's pretty close to the 83 stock red. It will get noticed on the road.

One GM Victory Red coming up. That's the paint I used.

[TheCafeKid]

damn thats sexy

[switz1]

2 part in a can

http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/SprayMax%202K%20Sell%20Sheets%20(English).pdf


$18.00 a can looks to be a one time shot,use what u need and throw rest of can away. Heres a link to the discussion over on the XJ forums.http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewto...clearcoat.html

[earlfor]

I would say thats about as RED as it gets! My Gawd, the glare! :-)

Earl ..........nice glare though hehe


[quote=dardoonk;835415]One GM Victory Red coming up. That's the paint I used.

[earlfor]

I wasnt aware anything like that was on the market. thanks

Earl

http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/SprayMax%202K%20Sell%20Sheets%20(English).pdf


$18.00 a can looks to be a one time shot,use what u need and throw rest of can away. Heres a link to the discussion over on the XJ forums.http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewto...clearcoat.html

[dardoonk]

I would say thats about as RED as it gets! My Gawd, the glare! :-)

Earl ..........nice glare though hehe

I'm not sure how to take this?

[PAULYBOY]

At $18 a can it's a deal if you don't have spray equipment. nothing to clean up, no ungodly mess other than the usual. Wow! I wonder what psi the paint comes out at, and what spray pattern it has.