Did a little painting...

[Nessism]

Finished polishing these pieces and shot them with POR-15 clear coat. Not sure if the clear will yellow with time but so far the paint is holding up on some different covers that were painted.

[1100E]

Ed, you are a brave soul. We left the motor and trans in my '80E during the recent resto, didn't have the nerve to pull 'em out and do it "all the way".

The paint looks awesome, as do the polished bits. Nice work!!

[pete]

Looking real good there Ed.

Is that Glisten PC you used on them? That's what I have here to go on my case covers once they're all polished up ready to go on.

I was planning to brush again like I have the Black Velvet and Blackcote, but I'm not sure yet if that's a good idea or not with the Glisten PC.

[Nessism]

Looking real good there Ed.

Is that Glisten PC you used on them? That's what I have here to go on my case covers once they're all polished up ready to go on.

I was planning to brush again like I have the Black Velvet and Blackcote, but I'm not sure yet if that's a good idea or not with the Glisten PC.

Yea Pete, Glisten. I think you could brush it no problem. It's a little thinner than those other paints but it's not runny or anything.

[rustybronco]

Dale,
You referring to concern over the VIN label? If so, I wouldn't worry...just act smart. You could make foil patch for the label and stick it down with a 1/4" surround of tape to hold it in place if you are worried about using tape directly on the label. Worst case you have a tape line that shows.

The MS primer will really lock down any rust that may be lurking. I used epoxy primer but that special rust sealing primer is superior stuff if you are worried about rust coming though.

One tip I can offer if spraying any of these moisture cure paints is to thin it to the max allowable because they are very thick. With hindsight, I'd have thinned mine a little more since I had to go back and use an airbrush on some dull spots where there was overspray.

Not really concerned with taping off the VIN label. my concern is with the 2 part top coat. on some forums it has been mentioned the AG111 scratches easily. sometimes it's so hard to read through all the product hype to find reality.

Currently, I am thinking of using the Master series primer, followed with a urethane primer then topcoated with black SSU. but the questions in my mind are, should I stick with a known system like PPG, use a combination of products from different manufactures which could come back to haunt you, or stick with all Master series products and hope the softness is malarky. the easy way of doing things is to ask my wife to bring home some DPLF, SSU and be done with it. trying different methods, if intentional, has never been an issue with me. even if it comes out to be the hard way...

The reason for my even considering PM industries is, I like to test out new things and $64 is good price if it works as advertised and especially if it can potentially help people save a few bucks on their restorations later on. we must keep in mind not everyone can afford powder coat...

[posplayr]

Ed,
Looks nice.

Also I have had no compatability issues with spraying the Glisten PC Clear over freshly sprayed Hardnose Black for example. For a frame it gives it a beautiful deep shine. After talking to a Powder coater about doing my wheels in sliver, he said he was going to have to cover it with a clear. I though what the heck, I'll just spray it myself. Alot cheaper than $130 a wheel or the $200 per wheel polishing.

I have never had any yellowing of the Glisten PC on my frame, or wheels. But I have never subjected it to engine temps.

The Glisten PC with proper prep is made to be sprayed right on bare and or polished metal. To not tempt fate, I always go for the brushed look and normally use a 800 grit final before spraying with the satin Clear.

My questions are:

What primer are you using for the Hardnose?

How long do you allow in between coats?

Are you sanding or just spraying over.

Jim

P.S. Once these wind die, I'll get my spray booth back up and going for the GSXR; I already have a box of Por-15 clear and blacks.

[Nessism]

I have no experience with those Master Series products but the web site details hardness and various other physical properties. Of course, you would need similar data from other products to compare to so not sure how much good this will do you.

[Nessism]

Ed,
Looks nice.

Also I have had no compatability issues with spraying the Glisten PC Clear over freshly sprayed Hardnose Black for example. For a frame it gives it a beautiful deep shine. After talking to a Powder coater about doing my wheels in sliver, he said he was going to have to cover it with a clear. I though what the heck, I'll just spray it myself. Alot cheaper than $130 a wheel or the $200 per wheel polishing.

I have never had any yellowing of the Glisten PC on my frame, or wheels. But I have never subjected it to engine temps.

The Glisten PC with proper prep is made to be sprayed right on bare and or polished metal. To not tempt fate, I always go for the brushed look and normally use a 800 grit final before spraying with the satin Clear.

My questions are:

What primer are you using for the Hardnose?

How long do you allow in between coats?

Are you sanding or just spraying over.

Jim

P.S. Once these wind die, I'll get my spray booth back up and going for the GSXR; I already have a box of Por-15 clear and blacks.

Por-15 sells this adhesion promoter spray that is to be used before shooting the Glisten clear on bare aluminum/steel. That's all I've ever used and it seems to work although I don't have enough time in service to say how good the stuff ultimately works or if it will turn yellow due to heat.

For the other parts I used some Kustom Shop epoxy primer - black color. This stuff sprayed well and is about 1/2 the cost of PPG DPLF so I decide to gamble on it. Unlike DP this stuff sands easily...too easily for my liking - DP seems to hold onto the metal better although my impression is not properly qualified. At any rate, I sandblasted the rust off the frame but otherwise left the old factory paint in place and just roughed it up with either sandpaper or sandblasting. The primer sprayed well but that Por Hardnose is a pain to spray - it's thick and sets up very quickly so overspray shows big time. I used two coats of Hardnose with maybe 1/2 hour between or so. Painting a frame sucks in terms of trying to not miss any spots so it takes a lot of time and effort (for me anyway). By the time you are done with one side of the frame, touching in the spots you missed, the paint is getting pretty well set on the other end of the frame. In my experience using a high grade automotive top coat paint such as PPG is much easier to spray and there is far less overspray concern - but there are run concerns so I guess it balances to some extent.

[pete]

The prep spray for the Glisten PC is called AP120 and it is apparently beyond highly recommended, ie if you don't use it don't bother.

I'm a little way off using it but I have had email conversations with the POR 15 guy here in Aus and he says the Glisten PC will handle the heat on the case covers, but don't put it on the cylinders or head.

Guess we'll all just have to wait and see...