Did a little painting...

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Woooo!!!

That's sick! Very nice job. Sure does feel more rewarding doing it yourself than having someone else do it, huh?

[Nessism]

That's sick! Very nice job. Sure does feel more rewarding doing it yourself than having someone else do it, huh?

I'm a freak when it come to doing things myself, and most of the time it's cheaper too. The paint cost about $100 total and I have about 60% remaining. Powder coat would have been nice but it would have cost about 10 times more than this project cost me.

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Nessism,

It looks like another quality project from you. I love watching your machines go together. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[DustoffDave]

Fantastic work

[nutsandbolts]

That's the way to do it! Looking forward to the final assembly pictures.

[terrylee]

Wonderful job! I'm going to try and paint a tank and side covers and I hope they look half that good! terrylee

[Sparky]

Man, Id like to see what you consider a lot of painting

That looks killer though, great job.

[Nessism]

Tried an experiment to see if the Por-15 Hardnose paint would be de-glossed a little on the battery tray; took comet cleanser and a toothbrush to it. Result was slightly less gloss but that Hardnose paint is tough stuff! From what I gather this type of catalyzed moisture cure paint is about as tough as you can get. It doesn't spray as well as a high grade auto paint but I think it's tougher.

Next time I'm going to do a project like this I'm going to try some Master Series Coatings paint. Its chemistry is similar to the Por-15 coatings but it's quite a bit cheaper. They sell semi-gloss catalyzed top coat too which is nice. For you guys that don't have the equipment to sand blast everything I think this stuff is ideal. Just wire wheel off all the loose paint and rust, apply a couple coats of the primer, followed by the top coat. They use this kind of paint on bridges so it should keep rust at bay on a motorcycle frame as long as you are likely to keep the thing.

http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/ag111/

[Ponderosa]

Good job, looks great..

Good job, looks great. No millers? LOL

[Nessism]

No millers? LOL

As in beer? Never touch the stuff.

[Ponderosa]

Not that type...

As in beer? Never touch the stuff.

Not the beer, the bugs.. Everytime I paint, I find a nest, they become airborne right after the second coat!

[Nessism]

Not the beer, the bugs.. Everytime I paint, I find a nest, they become airborne right after the second coat!

The weather in SoCalif is nothing short of amazing for painting outdoors; moderate temperatures, low humidity, minimal bugs. At certain times of the year there are a few more bugs but nothing like most places in the country.

[rustybronco]

Last Friday, because of a previous suggestion you made, I was looking at the Master series paints. I just might order up some of their material and do a test spray. if I like the results, I may make the skunk a test dummy for their series of paints.

still the thing that worries me the most, will it come back to haunt me at some later date?

[Nessism]

Last Friday, because of a previous suggestion you made, I was looking at the Master series paints. I just might order up some of their material and do a test spray. if I like the results, I may make the skunk a test dummy for their series of paints.

still the thing that worries me the most, will it come back to haunt me at some later date?

Dale,
You referring to concern over the VIN label? If so, I wouldn't worry...just act smart. You could make foil patch for the label and stick it down with a 1/4" surround of tape to hold it in place if you are worried about using tape directly on the label. Worst case you have a tape line that shows.

The MS primer will really lock down any rust that may be lurking. I used epoxy primer but that special rust sealing primer is superior stuff if you are worried about rust coming though.

One tip I can offer if spraying any of these moisture cure paints is to thin it to the max allowable because they are very thick. With hindsight, I'd have thinned mine a little more since I had to go back and use an airbrush on some dull spots where there was overspray.

[pete]

You got it right about the toughness of the POR 15 paint Ed.

I believe the hardnose you're using and the Blackcote I'm using have similar hardness properties.

I've painted the bottom of both my side stand and centre stand so will be interesting to see how they hold up once cured.

I'm also using the plastic spouts for pouring out of the cans and I left some of the Blackcote on one of them.

As it doesn't adhere to the plastic, I was able to pull it off when dry and it's like a piece of tough flexible plastic, quite amazing really. Doesn't tear when twisted or anything.