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    Discussing engine clear coats

    A few clear coats used on aluminum engine pieces have been discussed lately including Glisten PC, Plastikote 229 clear engine enamel ect. I was considering Plastikote's clear until I came across this discussion. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33784

    It looks like Plastikote may not be the best choice to use as it tends to turn yellow with high heat.

    What I did glean out of the discussion linked was this product. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-diamond-c...ero-11-oz.html
    and what caught my eye were these two comments. Yes I know, everyone has an opinion, but I think I'll give diamond clear a try on my engine covers and see how it holds up.
    I've clear coated parts that won't be affected by heat and it's very durable. It goes on kind of milky but dries really clear. The best I've used to date.
    You DO lose some of the "chrome" look you get from polishing the alum, more of a OEM look, as it was coated from the factory,
    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

    #2
    I made the mistake of clearing the engine on my 77 750 and it turned a yellowish brown. I personally will never clear an engine again. I gotta someday pull the engine and redo the entire thing.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      Do let us know how that diamond clear works out. Last I heard there wasn't a good, cheap, durable option for the engine cases.
      Dogma
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      O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

      Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

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      '80 GS850 GLT
      '80 GS1000 GT
      '01 ZRX1200R

      How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

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        #4
        Urethane 2x over polished... laquor will come right off when gas spills.

        Comment


          #5
          I used Glisten PC and it looks fine, but not sure how it's going to hold up long term. Clear powder coat seems like a logical solution which I think would be worth investigating.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            Clear powder coat seems like a logical solution which I think would be worth investigating.
            Not that I did have a bit trouble figuring out which clear is best to use on my aluminum covers, now you throw powder coating into the mix.

            Thanks Ed, I value your opinion. I'll check into having the engine covers PC'd.
            De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

            Comment


              #7
              I agree with Chuck. There is no clear coat that will last. When someone asks me if they should clear coat the parts that I polish for them, I tell them that it would be a mistake, no matter what is used.

              Comment


                #8
                All I'm looking to replicate is the factory finish and durability as much as I can. The factory finish lasts for quite a few years, I would think I should be able to get somewhat close to the same with what's on the market now.
                De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                Comment


                  #9
                  I've been restoring an old Enduro.
                  I took the marked up covers and brake hubs and gave them to a shop that specializes in Aluminum Wheels (straightening/trueing, painting, clear-coating).
                  They glass bead the covers and give'em a tough clear coat.
                  Don't know what they use for Clear Coat, but I think they cook it on after,,.. tough stuff.
                  Problem is, no two covers/parts seem to be made of the same aluminum,,.. when done, not all pieces have the same hue of silver,,.. but it still looks good.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
                    Not that I did have a bit trouble figuring out which clear is best to use on my aluminum covers, now you throw powder coating into the mix.
                    Dale,
                    Talk to Psyguy, I think he did powder coating and had issues with it later though, if I recall correctly. There were a few thoughts running around at the time that the polishing or corrosion left in the metal may be the culprit and new "virgin" metal allowed for a more lasting "etch" or whatever it is called.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Andre, I think the best way to prepare them, is to use a good wax and grease remover first, then wet sand with 600~800(??) grit before applying any type of surface coating; regardless of what materials are used.

                      I'll check with Ivor first and decide weather or not to PC them.
                      De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                      http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
                        Andre, I think the best way to prepare them, is to use a good wax and grease remover first, then wet sand with 600~800(??)
                        That may help, as my thoughts were that it may be related to the microscopic "craters" in the surface filled with corrosion or whatever. Someone with metallurgic background may be able to give more info on this. I think Ivor mentioned peeling after a while.

                        Watched a program on TV where they magnified a clean murder weapon and showed blood trapped in the microscopic "craters" after noticing flies sitting on it or something like that.

                        If someone can locate or find the right stuff it would probably be you anyway!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Dale get a can of the SP 127 and do a test piece of aluminum scrap and do the cure process like i described earlier. Then youll see what the jugs and cases are gonna look like, I think youll find its so close that it isnt funny. As for the fork lowers and covers..get them the way you want them and then seal them with WIZARDS POWER SEAL. They will last a good year or more before you just have to do a freshening rub down with the sealer again. Youre not going for high polish so this will be very good for your covers. Least thats my opinion from my experience and mistakes.
                          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            POR-15 sells a metal prep spray (AP120) that cleans and etches the metal, to promote adhesion of the clear on aluminum. You have to be careful with this stuff as it really bites into the aluminum on the engine cases (I recommend 1/2 the specified dwell time listed on the package). Regardless of what kind of finish is applied I'd use a product like this to assure the paint sticks.
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                              Dale get a can of the SP 127 and do a test piece of aluminum scrap and do the cure process like i described earlier. Then youll see what the jugs and cases are gonna look like, I think youll find its so close that it isnt funny. As for the fork lowers and covers..get them the way you want them and then seal them with WIZARDS POWER SEAL. They will last a good year or more before you just have to do a freshening rub down with the sealer again. Youre not going for high polish so this will be very good for your covers. Least thats my opinion from my experience and mistakes.
                              Chuck, I've already decided to use SP127 on the engine cases so there's no need to do a test run for me.

                              As far as the fork lowers, they came cleared from the factory. Clear will be going back on them after I get them stripped down and sanded.

                              Ed, I don't think it will matter much if I etch or sand the engine covers before clear coat. Paint 'should' adhere well to them either way. Just my opinion of course...
                              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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