Rust on frame

[Guest]

I have some rusty spots on my frame, particularly around where the foot pegs and brake lever mount and right under where the seat sits. I don't have any plans to strip down everything for refinishing the frame... but want to at least make these parts look a little better and do some spot treating.

I have some CLR but have been considering evapo rust. Would steel wool + evapo rust take the rust off? What grade steel wool to use? I have #0000. After removal, is there a paint i can brush or spray on that will match the glossy black of my frame and protect against future rusting?

[Steve]

..., is there a paint i can brush or spray on that will match the glossy black of my frame and protect against future rusting?

Anybody that is getting under your bike, inspecting the paint and noticing that the luster does not match is just too darn picky and is not to be trusted.

If you follow my philosophy on bike care, nobody will notice the different paint.

I try to keep the bike clean enough to look good, but also dirty enough to let you know that I actually RIDE it.

.

[posplayr]

Plastic / wood handled stainless steel bristle brush would probably work better for getting into nooks and crannies.

[rustybronco]

http://thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=203600

And I believe he uses this...

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=101

[chuck hahn]

Actually Dale, I used the VHT High Gloss Black Epoxy paint. let it sit out in this scorching Texas sun for a full day to "bake" as it were.

Can wrap off the engine and pipes just the same as I did in these pictures. Just use a little duct tape here and there to join the pieces of aluminum foil if needed.

[exzachtly1]

I try to keep the bike clean enough to look good, but also dirty enough to let you know that I actually RIDE it.
.

Mine doesn't fall too close to the "clean enough to look good" side of the spectrum currently... working on that though. And no one is getting under there just more concerned about some big, visible spots that are eye sores to me.

Plastic / wood handled stainless steel bristle brush would probably work better for getting into nooks and crannies.

http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=203600

And I believe he uses this...
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=101

Thanks guys, I will have to try both of these. The appliance epoxy stuff looks good.

[exzachtly1]

Actually Dale, I used the VHT High Gloss Black Epoxy paint. let it sit out in this scorching Texas sun for a full day to "bake" as it were.

Can wrap off the engine and pipes just the same as I did in these pictures. Just use a little duct tape here and there to join the pieces of aluminum foil if needed.

Great, thanks chuck! I may do this soon. So many projects...

[chuck hahn]

Use lots of simple green and rinse..then redo it to be sure its grease free..scuff with some 00 or 000 steel wool on the roguh spots with some wtaer...kinda like wet sanding.


Let it air dry REAL WELL so moisture doesnt make bubbles or other problems when you repaint.

Good going over with an air hose helps get water out of the crooks and crannies and helps speed the drying time as well.

Remember to never paint on a hot surface like if it sat in the sun..cool frame like from an overnight sitting or several hrs in full shade to cool it.

[Kiwi Canuck]

I use VHT Roll Bar & Chassis Paint, the Gloss finish matches perfectly, SP670

http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/rollbarchassis/

When you are ready to spray, you can spray some into the cap and hand brush it on or mask the areas around the frame and spray with can.
Preparing the surface well will give you the best results, I use a wire brush and then 280 wet sandpaper and then 600 to finish.
As Chuck mentions clean it well and dry it before being tempted to paint.

Good luck.