Well that didn't go so well(clear coat)

[Nessism]

Trust me and get one of these for your gun...

[rustybronco]

Greg, the suggestion to use a nib file and (or) a razor blade are good ones. I didn't even know nib files existed until now. While researching nib files, it was suggested you take some masking tape and wind a couple of wraps around each end of a single edged razor blade to remove the majority of the run as well. Works just like a little wood plane.

I don't see the gun you are using as being all that bad. It appears to have a 6.5" wide pattern, perfect for smaller pieces. It uses somewhere between 2 and 4 cfm to operate, so unless the pattern is distorted, or uneven, it looks like it will do for it's intended purpose when using a low cfm output compressor.

External mix, non bleeder type as well. As long as it doesn't drip, tune 'er
up on a piece of scrap and start shooting some more clear.

[SVSooke]

You think a box cutter type blade would work?Have a couple around ,bought them to remove oxidation on the KDX tank.Might be to thick now that I'm thinking about it.Looking for razor blades tomorrow.

[Nessism]

You think a box cutter type blade would work?Have a couple around ,bought them to remove oxidation on the KDX tank.Might be to thick now that I'm thinking about it.Looking for razor blades tomorrow.

[SVSooke]

Sure and so's sanding though the base coat.Did a bit of a search myself.Found 2 references to using a razor blade to remove runs.Sounds worth a careful try to me.

[pete]

Greg, good luck! I'm sure with care you'll be successful

Pete, the image of red paint on you brick work from that gun coming apart is indelibly etched in my mind!

If you can find an Astro (star) EVO4014 in nice condition and on the cheep, you might want to give that a try instead of spending the money on an Iwata. I have both the LPH400LV and the EVO4014 and I can assure you it's no slouch when it comes to applying paint.

*** silicone and paint... bad juju... ***

Errrr yeah... there's still some there if you look close

I'm way away from any of that yet, haven't even got a Kat to work on yet! However I shall keep that in mind too as an alternative to the Iwata, thanks!

Trust me and get one of these for your gun...

Is that a condensation filter Ed? I used one of those and even though I got told to ensure it was there, I was still surprised at the amount of water that was getting trapped in there...

[SVSooke]

Well I started the sanding of the clear.So much clear was thrown on I started with much coarser paper to knock the real rough stuff stuff down.The runs on the right side of the tank where a problem.Ended up sanding though the red.I will need to redo the red on that side of the tankWas hoping to take her to a bike show on the 27th but that just isn't going to happen.Smoothed out the upper faring pieces with a bit of rough and then some 400 wet,they tuned out quite nice.

[nvr2old]

Be VERY careful re-spraying the base coat color where you broke through. Put it on dry with a series of thin coats. If you don't, I guarantee it'll lift the edge of the clear where you sanded through it and then you'll have to start over again. It's almost better to leave a bit of the run in there and build the clear up through another series of coats rather then breaking through. Best of luck.

[SVSooke]

With 20/20 hindsight I know what you mean.What's done is done though.Learning from this I'm not trying to get the rest completely flat,just a bunch smoother.That side of the tank had the worst runs,did it first.With more hindsight I probably should have doe it last.

[keman]

Might be less work to completely strip it and start over... I like the results I got on mine with just rattle can laquer and some 2K crystal clear. But then I spent more than a few hours doing prep and wet sanding so I could get a good result. Turned out pretty much flawless... That said, I am still thinking about re-doing it to look more stock if I can find old school tank decals...

[rustybronco]

I'm not trying to get the rest completely flat, just a bunch smoother.

Never settle for close seconds. Strip it.

[mrbill5491]

Of all the work I did to my bike I found painting just wasn't meant to be for me. Painting my bike myself was actually giving me chest pains. Paint came out okay, though may repaint over the winter maybe. I did buy one of those HF $15 guns and would have to say it was pure junk period. I don't care what anyone has to say about them, junk junk junk. I had to have it replaced 3 times, after the 3rd replacement, I just asked for my money back and went to Home Depot and bought the Husky gun kit. What a difference. It was easier to set up, shot paint and clear really nice. I just have to work on my part to make it even better. Just remember you get what you pay for.

[SVSooke]

Trust me and get one of these for your gun...

Hmmm checked at Princess,they have these http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/F...lter/0470012.p and for a few $$ more these http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/F...lter/0470035.p think I'go for something I won't have to chuck out for that price

[SVSooke]

Added the inline filter ^^^,sure makes for a long "tail" to the back of the gun

[silverhorse47]

Ty re 'nason' response. I used it a few years ago on my 92 gmc, because I was cheap and someone on th internet recommended it. Never again on any vehicle.

I was tempted to try the two part urethanes everyone is selling when I painted my tank, but decided to go with Dupont 'Centari' catalyzed acrylic enamel. I used it on a 1972 VW and 1973 F250 years ago, and that paint came up shiney (no clear) and stuck like hell. There was one run on the ford, but over time it just settled back flat with no interruption of shine, and noone but me ever noticed it. It is wet heavy stuff and for sure you have to move when you spray it with the wrong gun. But if you can keep moving it's golden. For the ford and vw van I used a Home Hardware Wagner electric spray gun with the 'came with it' nozzle. The paint was still on those vehicles and still shiney when they were junked decades later.

So I used it again when I painted the tank on my (project) 1983 gs750. I had one run on the side of the tank. The run has slowly laid flat into the paint (months, not seconds) and it's now almost dead flat. I don't know a ton about paint, but I will never, ever, touch Nason again.

I am not sure if urethane automotive paint settles down so agreeabley, but this continuous self leveling feature of Centari, along with not having to clear coat...or rub out...is a bonus for me, and I'll use it as long as I can get it. It is rock hard and rocks just spit off it like it was baked on. I believe you could brush this on if you had the talent. It lays flat and shines like a mirror. It is also impervious to gas oil and brake fluid. I guess it's all out of date and etc. now, but so simple and effective.



S.