My first all rattle can paint job

[StubbornDutchman]

The dents are very small. One I didn't see until I started sanding the tank down. The other I didn't see until after it was primed and I caught the gloss of the wet primer in the light.

Ok. I'll make sure to swing by Canadian Tire and pick something up on my way home from work tomorrow.

[landshark]

My paint did this around where the old stickers were, it was sanded all the way down to the plastic and it still happened, i believe the glue from the stickers had leached into the plastic.

More importantly. WHY IS THIS HAPPENING!!!

I've sanded it down and it keeps happening. Whats going on? Its only around the edges of wherever I sand back down to the original base plastic.

[rustybronco]

Do you suggest bondo?

Unless it's changed materially over the years since I last used it, I don't recommend purchasing 'Bondo' brand filler. It hardens too much making sanding it difficult for this mans tastes.

There are better fillers. Try your local autobody supply.

My$.02

[spyug]

I agree with RustyB and am using some filler I got at Napa or CARQUEST (forget which) on Gatekeeper's tanks. It seems smoother and lighter than bondo, firms up quickly but is easy to work. If you look at Gatekeeper's FZ750 project thread you will see my work. The filler comes out a blue colour.

The other issue with bondo is that it seems to need a "scratch filler" (very fine putty) over it to give a smooth finish that doesn't suck in the paint.

Body work and paint are not easy skills to learn but as you've noted when it turns out right it is really satisfying. Keep at it. The more you do the better you become like most new things one learns.

[Nessism]

For very shallow depressions you can use spot putty, the catalyzed stuff is best. It's almost like bondo, only smoother.

As for Bondo brand fillers, I use the Bondo Ultimate polyester filler and it seems fine to me. Purchased from Autozone or Kragen (can't remember).

[rustybronco]

As for Bondo brand fillers, I use the Bondo Ultimate polyester filler and it seems fine to me. Purchased from Autozone or Kragen (can't remember).

My experience was with the regular Bondo off the shelf stuff; not the ultimate.

[Griffyn]

If you have a NAPA with a good bodywork section near you, go there and look around. Ask questions. Be friendly. The guys behind the counter usually know what is good for which job and can point you in the right general direction. The guys at the NAPA near me know a lot more about body work than I do, hope it's the same near you.

Since the blemishes are only visible with a gloss coat, I'm guessing that a finishing mud is what you're looking for. That's the really thin, quick-drying stuff. Make up very little bits of it at a time, and put it on a larger area than the blemish itself so that you get the smoothest possible transition from putty to metal. And be ready with the wet sanding, because the thin, soft mud will show scratches if you quit at just 400 grit before laying on the primer. Thankfully, because it is soft you only been a bit of rubbing to make it smooth. One typical noob mistake with mud is to sand it like it's Bondo and then you end up having to make up another batch and pretty much re-do the job up to that point. Think of this stuff as sanding balsa instead of pine.

Hope that info helps you out. Good luck on it and I look forward to seeing the finished product. As this is a learning experience, expect some incredibly frustrating flaw the job that you see every time you look at the bike, but is invisible to everyone else until you point it out. Seems like it happens that way to everyone.

[StubbornDutchman]

Thanks for the great info guys.

I don't have a good NAPA near me. But I do have an ok sized PartSource and Canadian Tire. I'll check them both tonight. Partsource seems to have smarter employees than most Canadian Tire's do so I'll start there. I'm sure I'll come up with something good. I'll post pics of the side covers tonight if I can remember. and the tank and helmet as soon as they are worth looking at.

Thanks again!

[StubbornDutchman]

Update pics. I'll post a write-up of what I did with the finals.
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[StubbornDutchman]

Still have to put the Suzuki symbols back on the tank. And I don't have a pic of the side covers right now. Everything is 100% done with rattle cans though.

[Steve]

Steep learning curve with this painting stuff. Its more work than I ever thought.

Now you know why a good paint job is not cheap.

Everything is 100% done with rattle cans though.

Be VERY CAREFUL at the gas pump.

.

[StubbornDutchman]

Be VERY CAREFUL at the gas pump.

.

Not worried. Used a Spraymax 2K clear with a hardener. Auto body supplier told me it's safe with fuel drops.

[TowPilot]

Crinkle in paint

Check the instructions on the paint can. If you use Duplicolor it has very specific instructions on spraying multiple coats and they must be followed. Either come back with multiple coats within xx minutes or wait 6 days before you put on additional coats. Wait 5 days and you will see the orange peel results. This was my experience. Once I read the instructions, and believed them, everything worked out.

[tkent02]

Looks great. Amazing for a first timer. That 2K is excellent stuff.

[StubbornDutchman]

Thanks Tom. Not gonna lie. I'm sittin pretty proud right now. Hopefully it doesn't chip and peel and knock me off my high horse. It's been two weeks and its holding fantastic.

There is some very slight orange peel in the clearcoat. I'm debating whether to sand it with 2000 and buff it or just live with it and be happy.