Surprisingly Easy Wheel Mod

[Guest]

Finally got my bike out for the season, eager to get my new parts put on it that I've bought over the winter. I bought some shorter shocks on eBay (10.5" eyehole to eyehole). I also bought a wire spoke wheel that came off of a 1975 Suzuki GT380. I was kinda skeptical about it fitting on my 83 gs650, but WOW, I was happy to discover that it was super easy. Everything was 100% compatible. I spent $80 on the wheel.

[growler]

looks good. any other lowering work you did besides switching out the shocks? how are they working for you? i'm thinking of switching to shorter shocks as well, but since i'm heavier i don't want them bottoming out.

[csw55]

looks good. any other lowering work you did besides switching out the shocks? how are they working for you? i'm thinking of switching to shorter shocks as well, but since i'm heavier i don't want them bottoming out.

So far, the only lowering I've done is the rear shocks. They came off an early 2000s Honda rebel. There's 5 different stiffness settings on the shocks, 1 being softest and 5 being stiffest. They come factory set at for riders about 150lbs on setting "2". People say that for every 50lbs, you turn it up a setting ("5" would be for 300lbs). I'm about 160 and have it set on "4", and so far it's not bottoming out. They're definitely good shocks.

If you do go with Rebel shocks, just be aware that you'll have to either drill out the Rebel's bushings, or press your Suzuki's shock bushings into the rebel shocks. Other than that, super straight forward!

[growler]

excellent. thanks for the info.

So far, the only lowering I've done is the rear shocks. They came off an early 2000s Honda rebel. There's 5 different stiffness settings on the shocks, 1 being softest and 5 being stiffest. They come factory set at for riders about 150lbs on setting "2". People say that for every 50lbs, you turn it up a setting ("5" would be for 300lbs). I'm about 160 and have it set on "4", and so far it's not bottoming out. They're definitely good shocks.

If you do go with Rebel shocks, just be aware that you'll have to either drill out the Rebel's bushings, or press your Suzuki's shock bushings into the rebel shocks. Other than that, super straight forward!

[Steve]

looks good. any other lowering work you did besides switching out the shocks? how are they working for you? i'm thinking of switching to shorter shocks as well, but since i'm heavier i don't want them bottoming out.

Another thing to consider before you switch to shorter shocks, ... your driveshaft is most efficient when operating in a straight line. If you shorten the shocks, you will change the angle. If it were a constant-velocity joint, it would not matter, but it's a simple u-joint, so the output shaft changes speed twice with every rotation, which can really accelerate wear on the splines.

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[growler]

good point. i'll look at modifying the seat before any other options. if i do anything with the rear shocks i'll want to lower the front as well. makes sense what you are saying.

Another thing to consider before you switch to shorter shocks, ... your driveshaft is most efficient when operating in a straight line. If you shorten the shocks, you will change the angle. If it were a constant-velocity joint, it would not matter, but it's a simple u-joint, so the output shaft changes speed twice with every rotation, which can really accelerate wear on the splines.

.

[Steve]

The quickest and easiest way to modify the seat is to shave a bit off the front corners. That will allow you legs to point down, rather than splaying out to the sides. It also leaves more of the padding back where you sit, leaving it reasonably comfortable.

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