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    Trouble removing Float Assembly

    So going through the paces of cleaning some seriously filthy carbs and all is going well, save for an air screw that is horribly disfigured on the head...and am at a loss as to how to remove the float assembly pin.

    I've got the carb cleaning guide sitting next to me and its making a point to "...punch on float assembly pin to remove..."

    With like a nail and hammer? I've tried tapping on it to ease it out to no avail. Should I use a bit of WD-40 or Liquid Wrench on it as well?

    I'm certain I'm gonna break something crucial the way I'm pounding on it and its still not giving or budging.

    #2
    I support the stand post with a small socket & use a spring loaded automatic punch to push the pin loose. You DON'T want to break one of those stands! Ray.

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      #3
      Hi,

      From my little website (thanks to Mr. Nessism):

      Removing Float Pins



      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

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        #4
        Ha, ha! Thx! I'm off to give it the ol' college try!

        Comment


          #5
          Try it from the opposite side. Be carefull

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            #6
            So after taking some time off from this effort...I've returned only to become increasingly irritated. I've come to find myself wondering a couple of things:

            1.) Why use a punch? Whats the difference between using a nail and a punch?

            2.) Whats keeping this pin secured in the support so tightly? Will it still be viable when (hopefully) I pound it out the other side?

            Comment


              #7
              Note that the float pin has a head on one end that is a bit larger. Under that head, buried in the support post, is a little deformation of the pin that wedges it into place. It is only friction that is holding that pin in place. Needless to say, push on the smaller end of the pin to remove it.

              Why use a punch rather than a nail? No good reason, except that if a nail slides sideways across the end of the pin, it might wedge into the support and cause further problems. Using a punch that has a flat end that is about the same size as the pin minimizes that chance.

              .
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              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
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                #8
                Well, after some Liquid Wrench and just being consistent & careful with the nail...I finally got the float pin out.

                Thx again all...time to put carb #1 in the Berryman's!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Great!

                  Originally posted by HalcyonGT View Post
                  Well, after some Liquid Wrench and just being consistent & careful with the nail...I finally got the float pin out.

                  Thx again all...time to put carb #1 in the Berryman's!
                  Glad you got it...you 'dodged a bullet' because those posts are pretty easy to break when the pins have been there for a long while. When you reassemble it, just barely tap them into place so that you have a little space to wedge in a tiny, flat head screwdriver (between the pin head and the post) in case you need to remove them again. Don't worry that they'll come loose....they won't!
                  1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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                    #10
                    Though the only friction fit is supposed to be at the end with the head, a couple of my pins had deformation at the little end. It was almost like some previous owner had peened them a little bit so the wouldn't come out easily. While I had them out, I gently filed the deformation on the small end of the pin and they work better.
                    1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
                    1983 GS 1100 G
                    2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
                    2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
                    1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)

                    I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Highway_Glider

                      If the pin goes back loosely it's still OK.

                      If you look at the bowl you will see it hugs the pin closely.
                      There is nowhere for it to go.

                      DP
                      Plus, there can't be much, or any, force trying to dislodge that pin.
                      1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
                      1983 GS 1100 G
                      2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
                      2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
                      1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)

                      I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.

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                        #12
                        Hey all, thanks for all the help and tips with the pin removal previously.

                        HOWEVER. I am at wits end with carb #4!

                        I have removed the pins from the 3 other carbs using the same technique...but this assembly is not budging at all. This concerns me for several reasons. Chief among them is not being able to get to the inlet valve and address any concerns with the float needle if they exist.

                        So here is what I'm thinking...can I dip the carb in its current state (disassembled but with float bowls intact) and hope that the dip will loosen the pin for later dislodging?

                        I've tried heating the pin and applying pressure to punch it out as well. *sigh*

                        Anyone?

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                          #13
                          I wouldnt..dont know exactly what the berrymans will do to the float meterial..it may eat your floats.
                          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I believe it will eat it. Plastic. rubber...

                            And the needle seat's O-ring and gasket.
                            Stephen.
                            1981 GSX540L "Frankintwin"
                            1989 GS500E Resto-mod .

                            400 mod thread
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                            Photos 2

                            Gs500 build thread
                            GS twin wiki

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                              #15
                              thats what i am thinking too......
                              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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