1978 GS 1000 - Video Tech Support Request

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. SandPVRR,

I see another forum thread in your future....

"I had the carbs rebuilt at the dealer and it still runs like crap."

I suggest you send your carbs to someone on this forum for a proper cleaning and rebuild. The dealer will charge you $100 or more to synchronize the carbs. For that much money you can by your own manometer and do them yourself, forever.

Is there any rust in the tank?




Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[IanC]

Not feeling comfortable on something like carbs is completely understandable, I was hesitant about doing mine myself and now have 2 sets successfully done under my belt. I also understand time constraints. I would suggest, though, shipping the carbs to one of the many people on this forum that rebuild carbs vs. a dealer.
I've seen first hand how expensive having someone do them can be (to the tune of $600). People here are top notch, know GS's (something the dealer mechanic most likely will not) and won't dick you around and over charge you for half-assed work. It's definitely worth the hour or so to take the carbs off and ship them to someone here. Odds are you'll even have them back faster than going to a dealer. Renobruce and Chef are two people here off the top of my head that offer carb rebuild services. Both are long standing, respected members and honest helpful guys.
In the end, it's your bike, do what you want with it. The above is recommendation only. Best of luck with the fix and great looking skunk by the way. Pretty partial to the black and white ones myself.

[Adler]

I'm an idiot and I rebuilt mine!

[SandPVRR]

You know - it took me a few brain cells and a bit of head scratching to figure out that 'Skunk' was not actually a term of insult. Once the right circuits connected inside the old noggin - I realized that it was quite funny actually!
Thought about changing my handle on this board to 'SkunkWorx' after that...... Nah :-)
Thank you all for the kind welcome and the compliments on the bike's appearance - like to think I got a winner here when I get the other issues straightened out. Before I started on this board, I ate six fuses on the head / tail / running light circuit in 24 hours - turned out to be three chafed wires in the Windjammer fairing. Got that sorted out and went back to the weird running issues.
I'm going to pick away at it again tonight and see what comes of it. I'll keep you all informed.
Oh and BTW - my 'work area' for those that didn't watch the video is a 10x10 tarp shed in my driveway - with no illumination and no power. I've been doing repairs by car headlight and holding a five Led light designed for lighting up the under side of cabinets.
My workbench, normally devoted to computers, is up on the second floor, requiring numerous runs up and down the stairs for tools and such. On the other hand, I'm losing weight!
-Joey
-Joey

[rustybronco]

My workbench, normally devoted to computers, is up on the second floor, requiring numerous runs up and down the stairs for tools and such. On the other hand, I'm losing weight!
-Joey

Then put a 1/4" ratchet, 8 and 10mm deep sockets, a 14mm wrench, a screw driver with 'well fitting' changeable bits in your back pocket and forgo the stairs...

[Octain]

I cant read anymore!!

[waterman]

(Who is thinking the goal of making a daily rider out of a 33 year old 'Skunk' might not have been his brightest move)[/QUOTE]

Update again:

Can anyone recommend a petcock rebuild kit?
-Joey

I thought I would address some of your other concerns, others here have adequately addressed your bike issues to start with.

There is no reason that your 33 year old skunk would not make a great daily rider, it can be just as reliable as any new bike once the proper maintenance has been performed on it. I drive my 650 everyday that it is semi nice out, and it has never left me stranded or given be any grief for 3 years or so. I did meticulously clean the carbs once and have checked valves once a year as well as annual oil changes. Other than gas, it needs nothing and runs great. Reliable as a Timex watch.

Most people have better results with a new petcock as opposed to rebuilding them. Common line here is buy a new one and it should give you another 20 years of trouble free service.

I enjoyed your video, but for some reason, motorcycles engine sounds never record well so it is hard for my poor ears to hear the misfiring. If you don't want to touch exhaust pipes, a little water or spit will sizzle on hot pipe.

Maybe a carb cleaning video could be made, sure that would go viral on a site like this.

[SandPVRR]

Waterman,
thanks for the additional compliments and comments.
Do you or anyone else, have a recommendation for a good place to purchase a new petcock?
Thanks!
-Joey

[cowboyup3371]

Z1 or really even your local parts store should still get one. Check Z1 out first

[IanC]

You can still get new ones from Suzuki I think too. Spendy, but things like that I like OEM parts.

[Big T]

You can still get new ones from Suzuki I think too. Spendy, but things like that I like OEM parts.

Apparently, there are only a few left. The last one I saw was $350!

[Octain]

(Who is thinking the goal of making a daily rider out of a 33 year old 'Skunk' might not have been his brightest move)

Most people have better results with a new petcock as opposed to rebuilding them. Common line here is buy a new one and it should give you another 20 years of trouble free service.

.[/QUOTE]

The 78 petcock is $300+ believe it or not.
But then again, h'es talking about taking his bike to a dealer for minor work. He mus'nt mind spending it.

[Nessism]

The 78 petcock is $300+ believe it or not.
But then again, h'es talking about taking his bike to a dealer for minor work. He mus'nt mind spending it.

I just checked and the price has come down - about $80 now. Part# 44300-45011

EDIT: I listed the wrong part number. The correct number is Part# 44300-44011. The number listed above is for the 750.

[Big T]

Ed, Larry and All,
Tell you what - when I start complaining about the bill from the dealer to do the carb cleaning - you can all line up and tell me 'I Told You So' :-)
But if I waited to do it myself until I had time to do it - I don't know if I'd be ready for that September Moosehead rally!
-Joey

Actually, we never say "I told you so". The guilty party generally posts up a "Thanks"

Here's what you do. Hit a garage sale this weekend while you're between jobs and get a table or a dresser and a chair. There's your work space

Get an egg carton, the larger the better

Pull the carbs off the bike and start stripping them. Put all the small parts in the egg carton holes. Be careful of the float pins ( see the Tip on this) Oop, I forgot - you'll need a hand impact driver ($10-30) to get the screws out that hold the carb bodies to the rack.

Once you get one carb body off, put it and the small metal parts in the dip basket and into the dip. Finish taking the other 3 carbs apart, put all the parts in the egg carton, pick up your tools and call it a day. Time 1-2 hours

Next day, pull the basket from the dip and drain. Put another carb and parts in the basket and dip. Spray the dipped body and parts with carb cleaner (I actually do this while they're still in the basket) Time 15 mins

Repeat for 2 days - time 10-15 minutes/day because you're getting better at it

Then, dip the rack parts for a day each end - while that is happening, sit down at your desk upstairs and reassemble the individual carbs - Time = maybe an hour

When the rack is clean, reassemble the carbs on the rack - 30 minutes

Now, you've spent a few hours on the project, but it's taken a week. Find another hour to reinstall and you're ready for a sync.

Install your Dyna S and set it.

You should be good to go (except for that valve adjustment, you can work that in there while the carbs are dipping)

Cost - about $50 for dip, O rings, carb spray and maybe some bowl gaskets.

After all that, you should be good to go for 2-3 years with only oil changes and such.

[SandPVRR]

Update from the field:
Correct me if I'm wrong - if you pull the drain plugs out of the carbs and there is no gas flowing from the drain plugs - the petcock is not leaking. Right?
Pulled the #3 (suspected to be the problem cylinder) drain plug and flushed about a pint of gas through it with the petcock on Prime.
Fired engine - seemed to run better - took on short test ride to empty parking lot facing towards a river - revved engine up much further than allowed in my driveway (noise complaints and all -trying to avoid them) engine still popping at high revs - but - not nearly as badly - throttle response much improved - power seemed improved as well - actually stepped out a little on loose gravel when I got into it.
Here are my thoughts as I dash out the door to a customer and take the bike on a longer test ride doing so: The petcock is fine - the changes in the oil level are the difference between my Father's driveway and mine - if I drain the carbs I'll be fine or should at least reevaluate.
Thoughts???
-Joey (smiling!)