Rule #11

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I found these on some guy's website. Hope it helps.

Where Do These Hoses Go?

Overflowing Carbs


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[andtheacademics]

Okay #3 fully apart:

MAIN JET: R - 130
NEEDLE : 5F21 - Clip @ notch 2 (counting 1,2,3,4,5 starting towards the point of the needle and couting higher towards the top, correct me if I'm not listing that right)

@BassCliff - Where did you find this website it's amazing! ...

Thanks to your tubing diagram I can tell you smoke was coming out of my breather hose when I last had the bike running.

Also, in theory, if the petcock is "on" and you remove the tank (and its hoses) from the bike, it should not pour gas all over you? Because mine absolutely did! I have the tank leaning up against a wall right now so as not to leak gas all over the driveway...

[tkent02]

O

Also, in theory, if the petcock is "on" and you remove the tank (and its hoses) from the bike, it should not pour gas all over you? Because mine absolutely did! I have the tank leaning up against a wall right now so as not to leak gas all over the driveway...

It absolutely should not leak anything, other than spilling the fuel that is in the line already.

[allojohn]

Gas in the oil should not be a problem.

Quoting Hampshirehog.....
Don't worry with VMs - if the carb overflows the fuel will run down the drain hoses fixed to the bottom of the float bowls.

[andtheacademics]

It absolutely should not leak anything, other than spilling the fuel that is in the line already.

GREAT! Where do I get an OEM petcock??

[tkent02]

Gas in the oil should not be a problem.

Quoting Hampshirehog.....
Don't worry with VMs - if the carb overflows the fuel will run down the drain hoses fixed to the bottom of the float bowls.

Not always, the overflows can get clogged sometimes, and sometimes they get routed wrong or kinked.

[andtheacademics]

Yeah, no gas was coming from my overflows, it was all spilling out through my airbox (pods).

[allojohn]

Not always, the overflows can get clogged sometimes, and sometimes they get routed wrong or kinked.

Yeah, I can see that.

[MadCapsule]

New airbox boots can be had from Boulevard Suzuki for about 10 bucks apiece. Part # 13728-45010 is what you want.

Everyone lists them as "drain hoses" for reasons that I will never understand, but they are indeed the correct parts. Just installed the set I ordered yesterday!

[TheCafeKid]

Aside from all your other troubles (and it seems as though you have a bit to sort out, but it could be much much much worse. At least it's pretty ) your main jet is way too large. You'll need to be more around the 117.5-122.5 range. I'd order 117.5s and 120s and you can likely get it to work well with those.

The petcock sounds like its goose is cooked. And just because the carbs "look" clean doesn't mean they are. Float levels will need to be checked that they're set right. But you'll find all this info here. It's a great resource. Those 750s are bulletproof and nice machines when sorted. Get her sorted out and shell surprise you with how nimble she is, and while not a power monster, quick enough in her own right. She's no SV1K, but riding one of these ol girls on the edge is quite an experience compared to a newer bike.

[andtheacademics]

your main jet is way too large. You'll need to be more around the 117.5-122.5 range. I'd order 117.5s and 120s and you can likely get it to work well with those.

I have some mid-range pods I bought before - is a 130 is too large even for those? At least now I know I wasn't cooking my engine before...

To be completely honest I've never cleaned carbs out of the rack before, and it wasn't half bad... it still took me about six hours. Followed the site instructions (and BassCliff's) and now they're back on prim and proper. Didn't have to run a wire though anything, nor did I have any trouble getting the floats out, BUT all four floats were wayyy off spec, one as high as 19mm, so even if the carbs were not the cause of my gas leak I would be willing to bet they were compounding it. Also I found that the #2 manifold boot had not been fully tightened onto the engine block!... Interesting that #2 should be the cylinder that supplies vacuum to the petcock... (even though I've already established my petcock is likely smoked)

Tomorrow she'll get the oil/ filter change, and I'll get the pipes off to see if they're holding fluid. I have pictures but not my computer so I'll post later.

[TheCafeKid]

I have some mid-range pods I bought before - is a 130 is too large even for those? At least now I know I wasn't cooking my engine before...

To be completely honest I've never cleaned carbs out of the rack before, and it wasn't half bad... it still took me about six hours. Followed the site instructions (and BassCliff's) and now they're back on prim and proper. Didn't have to run a wire though anything, nor did I have any trouble getting the floats out, BUT all four floats were wayyy off spec, one as high as 19mm, so even if the carbs were not the cause of my gas leak I would be willing to bet they were compounding it. Also I found that the #2 manifold boot had not been fully tightened onto the engine block!... Interesting that #2 should be the cylinder that supplies vacuum to the petcock... (even though I've already established my petcock is likely smoked)

Tomorrow she'll get the oil/ filter change, and I'll get the pipes off to see if they're holding fluid. I have pictures but not my computer so I'll post later.

You shouldn't need to pull the pipes. Just pull the plugs out, and spin the motor over a few times. It'll pump out any gas in the cylinders. Just watch it doesn't spray it all over you

130 with pods is too much. It'll be wet and sloppy at the top end. 117.5 or 120 with the pods and pipe, and the needle clips moved down toward the point one notch or two with the stock pilot (#15) should be pretty close to ideal. Of course, I wouldn't mess with that honestly until you checked your valve clearance adjustment situation (also a great tutorial on Cliffs site) as this is a really important step and often very neglected by non GSR member owners. They're to be checked for proper clearance every 3-5000 miles. It's likely you won't have to change but a shim or two if any once you get them in spec after the first couple of checks, but tight valves lead to many problems, the worst of which is poor compression and cooked valves. Hard cold starting, buzziness, poor idle, and poor running are others. They're a shim over bucket design, easy to deal with once you get the hang of it. Most times it takes more time to scrap the old valve cover gasket off the mating surfaces than actually adjusting them..

[allojohn]

To be completely honest I've never cleaned carbs out of the rack before, and it wasn't half bad... it still took me about six hours. Followed the site instructions (and BassCliff's) and now they're back on prim and proper. Didn't have to run a wire though anything, nor did I have any trouble getting the floats out, BUT all four floats were wayyy off spec, one as high as 19mm, so even if the carbs were not the cause of my gas leak I would be willing to bet they were compounding it. Also I found that the #2 manifold boot had not been fully tightened onto the engine block!... Interesting that #2 should be the cylinder that supplies vacuum to the petcock... (even though I've already established my petcock is likely smoked)

Tomorrow she'll get the oil/ filter change, and I'll get the pipes off to see if they're holding fluid. I have pictures but not my computer so I'll post later.

This sh!t makes you feel good don't it? Fixing the issues one by one - heading toward the prize!

[mrbill5491]

I had my carbs flood out once, guess the vacuum piece of carp didn't close...anyways, I went to start the bike and it hydraulic on me. Stopped the engine cold. I pulled out the plugs to spin the engine to clear it out and tons of gas came shooting on the #1 and #2 plug holes. Luckly it didn't crack the piston and no gas smell in the oil. Must have happened that nite so it didn't have time to work pass the oil rings. Now on larger engines I've seen that hydraulic they busted the a piston big time. If your bike hydraulics don't try to force it to spin. Once it stops get the plugs out then spin it to clear it out.

[rustybronco]

130 with pods is too much. It'll be wet and sloppy at the top end. 117.5 or 120 with the pods and pipe, and the needle clips moved down toward the point one notch .

Using good pods, I think +/- 122.5 with the clip placed 4th down from the top would be in order.

agreed, 130's are way too big...