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fixing broken float towers

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    fixing broken float towers

    I've searched and read until my eyes glazed over about the various fixes for this problem. In my case, the previous owner broke a post on carbs #3 and #4. He used some sort of epoxy (guessing JB weld, but who knows). When I tore the carbs down, the epoxy was still there, but no longer adhered (it just fell off). It does look like he roughed up the surfaces and spread the epoxy up the sides of the posts to reinforce the joint.

    I bought the bike for $500 off craigslist, and would prefer to save money on this fix to put into other areas of the bike too.

    I keep going back and forth on which fix I want to try, so I'm calling on the collective wisdom and support of the board to help me decide.

    Thanks in advance!
    24
    JB Weld
    8.33%
    2
    Drill the broken posts and use a screw w/ head cut off
    12.50%
    3
    Alumiweld (or durafix/hts2000/alumalloy/etc)
    8.33%
    2
    Find a local shop to TIG weld it
    8.33%
    2
    Send it off to have it laser welded under a microscope
    0.00%
    0
    Find undamaged carb bodies to replace them with
    50.00%
    12
    Other (please post details in a reply)
    12.50%
    3

    #2
    I believe there are some threads on this in the archives but in my experience, there is no real repair that is guaranteed. It would be a better solution to get replacement carb bodies and I'm sure someone here would have something for a reasonible price. Put up a parts wanted post.

    If that is not an option, you could try rebuilding the post with 2 part epxoy putty. Plumber's putty is sold in the home stores and have used it successfully on repairs to gas tanks. I know that it is impervious to gas as I tested it a few years ago by putting a lump of it in gas for over 6 months. No deterioration or breakdown. It cures hard as rock and can be shaped with files and drilled.

    Good luck with the project.
    Spyug

    Comment


      #3
      I agree new bodies the best or tig weld, the problem with welding you must get all the old JB weld off or the weld could be compromised.

      Comment


        #4
        No problem getting all of the old epoxy off, as all of it came off on it's own. I'm thinking that a shop minimum for tig welding them would be as much or more than getting new (used) bodies.

        Comment


          #5
          Drill holes in both body and post. Lathe down a brass rod so as to be an interference fit in the drilled hole. Tap pin into carb body and broken post over pin.



          Done...
          De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

          Comment


            #6
            I'm liking the brass post idea, but don't have access to a lathe. I'm thinking a roll pin would accomplish the same thing though. How do you ensure that the holes that you drill are perfectly aligned?

            Comment


              #7
              I used my eye...

              The brass pin will allow a small amount of tweaking to align with the other post.

              You have a drill motor and a file don't you?
              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

              Comment


                #8
                Heres what I have done a few times since I found out JB Weld eventually fails in fuel:

                Drill a hole vertically into the carburetor body in line with the broken pin. Tap the hole for a small stud, screw it in. Thread a brass tube internally with the same tap, smash it flat on one end, drill a hole through the smashed end the same diameter as the float pivot pin. Screw the tube onto the stud until the hole is the same height as the hole in the other pin. Crimp the tube so it can't turn on the stud, you are done. It is a permanent repair as it uses no chemicals which can dissolve.

                I have also done nothing and ran with one post missing, it worked fine.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9


                  BS32SS bodies, slides with excellent diaphragms, stock needles, assorted carb parts... Body= $30 shipped, slides= $30 shipped (each) other parts $15 shipped or less.
                  Though, I think those would have to be 550 or 650 BS32s for the carb spacing to match up. GS650 bodies would have to have the jets swapped out.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I voted other just because i like fixing things myself. I would get a small piece of brass tube that fits the posts and just slip it over the two pieces. Then drill a small hole thru the upper and lower ends and put a pin thru to keep it all together. If your cash rich then just replace the body.
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I bought a broken carb for £1 at Netley 3 or 4 years ago and snapped off a post to see if the guy flogging Lumiweld (or whatever it was) could 'weld' it back together. He made it look easy.

                      Surprisingly, the hardest thing was to break the post in the first place - isn't that always the way?
                      79 GS1000S
                      79 GS1000S (another one)
                      80 GSX750
                      80 GS550
                      80 CB650 cafe racer
                      75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
                      75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Had you been trying to get that carb ready for a ride the next day, it would have broken when you looked at it

                        Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
                        Surprisingly, the hardest thing was to break the post in the first place - isn't that always the way?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I do like to fix things myself, but I also want to make sure that I'm not doing the job over and over again. $60 for two carb bodies is really more than I wanted to spend, since I'm already doing the o-rings and gaskets. I still need to adjust valves, paint the tank, and recover the seat.

                          Right now I'm leaning towards drilling and using a roll pin or brass pin (I do have a drill and file ), with a backup of buying replacement bodies if that doesn't work).

                          Having them welded, buying alumiweld rods, etc would nearly reach the cost of the new carb bodies, so I think I'll avoid them. Since an epoxy fix already failed on these, I'm not inclined to try it again.

                          The brass tube isn't a bad idea either, but I think pinning the broken post would be a cleaner fix and just as secure. I do have the other halves of the posts, and the hole for the pin is just fine.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by crazy5 View Post
                            ....$60 for two carb bodies is really more than I wanted to spend.....
                            It's the fix-or-replace decisions all of us go through, making these vintage machines reliable, balancing the limits of our abilities and wallets.

                            All depends on the value you place on NOT being broke down at the side of the road, at night, in the rain, 100 miles from nowhere, when a carb floods. (refer to Murphy's Law) Personally, I don't like to set out with my fingers crossed that a makeshift repair of some sort will hold.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by wisgolfer59 View Post
                              It's the fix-or-replace decisions all of us go through, making these vintage machines reliable, balancing the limits of our abilities and wallets.

                              All depends on the value you place on NOT being broke down at the side of the road, at night, in the rain, 100 miles from nowhere, when a carb floods. (refer to Murphy's Law) Personally, I don't like to set out with my fingers crossed that a makeshift repair of some sort will hold.
                              A post re breaking is not going to leave anyone stranded.
                              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                              Life is too short to ride an L.

                              Comment

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