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Are chrome bolts bad to use?

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    #1

    Are chrome bolts bad to use?

    Not a rhetorical question. In preparation for replacing the oil pan gasket on my 850, I am lowering my 4-1 exhaust, which I just installed last year.

    Anyway, 'cause it was all pretty when I got it, I wanted to use chrome bolts to keep my new exhaust all shiny. At the time, the True Value where I buy lots of bolts and such didn't have enough of the chrome, so I ended up using half stainless steel bolts and half chrome.

    I noticed tonight alot of rust on the chrome bolts where the thread meets the bolt head. Enough rust where I could see, in a few years, the bolt head shearing off if anyone had to remove the exhaust again.

    The stainless steel bolts did not have any rust on them at all.

    Needless to say, I'm chucking the chrome bolts.

    So, is this something that everyone already knew? Are chrome bolts bad to use for fastening an exhaust system? I live in the Seattle area. We get alot of rain. And I ride pretty much year round, if that matters.
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    #2
    In any kind of plating, when you have interfacing components these substrates can be damaged. Scraping and cutting is most common from bolts & nuts. Once they're scraped, the mild steel below the plating is subject to corrosion.

    If appearances are your prerogative, polish up some stainless hardware and you're all set.

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      #3
      To say the same thing in different words:
      Yes, it is known that you should use stainless steel replacements. In fact, eBay and Z1 Enterprises sell stainless kits to replace lots of screws and bolts. And those of us who rebuild carbs always replace the screws with stainless allen head screws. Works out a lot better all around.

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        #4
        Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
        To say the same thing in different words:
        Yes, it is known that you should use stainless steel replacements. In fact, eBay and Z1 Enterprises sell stainless kits to replace lots of screws and bolts. And those of us who rebuild carbs always replace the screws with stainless allen head screws. Works out a lot better all around.
        Use some h-iheat anti-seize on the SS pipe bolts, could save you a headache down the road. Or, install SS studs in the place of the SS blots. Makes it easier to remove the pipe and lessens the chance of stripping or breaking a header bolt in the head.
        sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
        1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
        2015 CAN AM RTS


        Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

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          #5
          Yes, using stainless is a better idea than chrome, in most cases.

          However, depending on the location of the bolt, you may not want stainless.
          It does not have enough tensile strength for some high-strength areas.

          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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            #6
            Thanks for all the info. I'll definitely pick up some anti-sieze before re-installing my exhaust.

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              #7
              I was thinking along the same lines as Brent...until it chips its fine. And being on the oil pan its gonna get hammered by all sorts of road debris and such.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                #8
                Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                I was thinking along the same lines as Brent...until it chips its fine. And being on the oil pan its gonna get hammered by all sorts of road debris and such.
                ...................... hi i can only comment on what i,ve done ,,,,and used ,,,,which is stainless steel cap screws/nuts... they come up a real treat and are not expensive to buy regards oldgrumpy

                Comment

                  #9
                  A further issue with chromed bolts is that the electrolysis process to do the plating makes the steel more brittle and prone to snapping. This is not an issue on cosmetic things or engine covers, etc. but on 'mission critical' things like frame bolts and fork yokes you are better off using high tensile bolts. Yes the zinc will be gone in 10 or 20 years but so what; if a bit of oxidisation is giving you the irrits, just replace them.
                  Stainless steel is also not strong enough for 'mission critical' applications. Did I mention high tensile bolts... ?

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