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    Float Settings and Float needle Question

    OK....So I am going back together with the carbs for the '85 GS450L (BS34SS)

    Looking at various tables here and on Bikecliff's site I am reading that the Float setting should be 23.00mm plus/minus 1.0mm.

    Currently the floats (both sides) are measuring 20.85 and 20.95. Could these floats be that much off? I am concerned with adjusting them up to the 23.00 dimension. Could the tabs on the floats be that far out of adjustment?

    Also, if I start bending the adjusting tab on the float, will it not put more pressure on the float needle and start to compress the spring more (Mr. Nessism in his tutorial says the spring should not be depressed when measuring the float height...if I'm reading it right).

    Thought that maybe the float needle might need to be replaced (feeling a very slight groove in the tip and the spring seems to be a little slow on the rebound from pushing it down. Boulevard Suzuki has been the cheapest place I have found so far but at 31 bucks and some change for one...seems a little high. Do any of you know another source for these needles that aren't so expensive??? Are these needles interchangeable with any more available? Do you think my needles could be used?

    So many questions...Sorry for the long post..

    #2
    you are measuring them correctly right ?



    it will not put more pressure on the needle it will just raise or lower the floats

    .

    Comment


      #3
      Z1 Enterprises has a package of 6 float needles for $24.00. If you are getting a groove in the needle, you should also replace the seat. If the price you mentioned was needle and seat, it's most likely your best bet. http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDet...item=KL18-8957
      http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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        #4
        Parts-n-More has needle and seat pairs for $8 each.

        Find a few other parts that you might use, because they have a $35 minimum order.

        Easy enough to do, just keep scrollling through the pages: gaskets, lights, filters, brake switches, master cylinder rebuild kits, caliper bleeder covers, LOTS of stuff.
        Items are not OEM, but quality is good. I have personally used all the items mentioned here.

        .
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        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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          #5
          Gate Keeper: Yes measuring correctly. Using this exact picture from tutorial...It just seems odd that the float level would be that much off (the adjusting tab seems to be pretty stiff to bend for adjusting).

          Oldvet66 and Steve: Thanks for the links, will definitely look into these as I am almost certain will be changing the needles. Too far into this for skimping now!

          Comment


            #6
            Can't really see this as the needle being an issue, but it might, mine were same as the day they came out, I can't see that tang wearing out a needle, but maybe after 30 years anything is possible.

            Yes it does take a bit of force to bend the tab, and make sure you bend it evenly or you will have one side of the floats different from the other, I used a small jewelers screwdriver to adjust the tab, and yes mine were out by almost 2mm, I am now .5mm on all floats

            you can take the pin out that holds the floats and then adjust the tab, but it's more work but perhaps easier for you to do it that way.

            I looked at my needles with a magnifying glass and it's not a sharp point as the tip of a needle, there is a slight flat spot, all 4 were like this so I saw no cause for concern, well at least not for me, I left them and used them and all seems to work as it should.

            .

            Comment


              #7
              I'm not exactly sure how your floats are compared to mine. I found a little pair of channel lock style pliers that clamp on the float needle tab, clearing the pin tube and all other parts of my floats. It makes bending the tab easy without twisting the tab. I use it to hold the tab and gently put pressure on the other side with my other hand. It doesn't take much, trial and error, measuring after each attempt. You'll get the hang of it easy enough for an exact measure to the correct height. My manual does say to replace needle and seat if there are any ridges in the needle.
              Last edited by OldVet66; 04-09-2013, 09:46 AM.
              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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                #8
                OK Thanks guys! Will adjust them up accordingly. It just seemed really odd to me that they were that far out of adjustment. Wondering if they came that way originally (not sure if these were aver rebuilt).

                Taking the floats out to adjust is no big deal. Will look at the needle a little closer tonight (magnifying glass is a good idea...)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by GreatDane View Post
                  Also, if I start bending the adjusting tab on the float, will it not put more pressure on the float needle and start to compress the spring more (Mr. Nessism in his tutorial says the spring should not be depressed when measuring the float height...if I'm reading it right).
                  What Ed is saying, is to make sure the float needle isn't being depressed by the weight of the float when you take your measurement. (Depends on the strength of the springs in the float needles) If that happens, simply hold the float up until the tab just touches the needle and then measure.

                  Also, as GateKeeper said, measure both sides too & make sure they're even. Take your time to get them perfect, makes a big difference.
                  '85 GS550L - SOLD
                  '85 GS550E - SOLD
                  '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                  '81 GS750L - SOLD
                  '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                  '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                  '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                  '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Someone may have measured with the gaskets in the carb, who knows, but it's not all that unusual for them to be off.
                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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