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What r these pics telling me?

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    #31
    Well the first picture is a train wreck, the second not too bad and the last two fairly normal. If the last two adjust out to lets say 3/4 from lightly seated. The second might need to be between 1/2 and 3/4, but the first I would start at 1/4 or less. you get the picture. I had a set worse than that and I chased my tail for near three years before I trashed them and rebuilt a near virgin set with factory paint on the screws. Normal is when lightly seated you can just see the tip of the fuel needle under the hole in the throat of the carburetor. You can still get those running nicely, but I would most likely replace the first carb body if it were mine.
    Last edited by OldVet66; 05-08-2013, 10:21 PM.
    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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      #32
      Didnt have the fittings to make a leak down tester last night, however i did manage to fill cylinders with 100 psi and couldnt hear any leaks... Compiling some parts today/tomorrow for a ghetto leak tester...

      Wondering about my seats, if i put a point on the end of a steel rod the same taper as a needle and used lapping compound im wondering if i could improve them.. I have inspection equipment, and lathes at my disposal at work.
      -Mark
      Boston, MA
      Suck Squeeze Bang Blow..
      sigpic
      1980 GS850G with 79 carbs.....

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        #33
        Getto? did you just say getto? Don't get no more getto than this



        De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

        http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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          #34
          Don't try to do anything with the fuel needle seat. Some of your pictures might be a bit misleading. Stretching those holes out is the problem when the fuel needles are ground into the seat, you don't need to widen them any more than they are. They need to be clean. Replacing the damaged fuel needles would help some. If any of the fuel needle tips stick up into the throat of the carburetor, you are going to have to figure out how much less those have to be turned out from lightly seated to approximate the position of an undamaged one. It just makes your job harder because slight changes on the damaged seats can make bigger differences than the undamaged ones. All fuel needle adjustments will affect air screw adjustments.
          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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            #35
            Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
            Some of your pictures might be a bit misleading.
            No way to tell anything for certain with those pictures. Plus brass is softer than die cast.
            De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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              #36
              LOL thats exactly what I had in mind!
              -Mark
              Boston, MA
              Suck Squeeze Bang Blow..
              sigpic
              1980 GS850G with 79 carbs.....

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